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New to Me Pietta 1858 Remington

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54cal said:
I won this revolver what do you think? Also I've never owned a B/P revolver and need any info you can provide me about loads etc. and about this particular gun. Thanks for your help. Roger http://www.gunbroker.com/MySite/MyAuctions/Won.aspx[/quote]

Link comes up as "Can not find server"!

As far as the revolver goes, is it a brass or steel frame? For steel I'd recommend my usual load of 27 grains of 3Fg Goex, a pre-lubed wonder-wad and a .454 Hornady ball. Very accurate load! Now if it's brass, I'd load it with 20-22 grains of 3Fg, two wonder-wads and the .454 ball. Brass frames need lighter loads so they don't get damaged.

Do you have a friend who owns a bp revolver that you can learn from? Some things just need to be learned the hard way, even with help. Do you want to use a pistol loading stand to make your life easier, if you intend on shooting this gun more than a couple of times? Do you have any hand gun experience at all? If yes, please give examples. Single-shot BP pistol, .44 Mag, .500 S&W, .22 LR? We sort of need a common frame of reference to save typing war & peace. So let us know a little bit more and we'll give you all you need as far as info, without telling you how to invent the wheel :haha: .

Dave
 
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I bought one a month or so ago, really enjoy shooting it, I use Hornady .454 balls, over 23 grains of Triple 7, measured by volume, and home made wads of felt with cci # 10 caps. Just remember you have to clean it after you shoot it. I use water. Works great. Spend some time reading up on black powder before you attempt to shoot it.
 
the page wouldn't show. you need a nipple wrench and powder measure along with the usual few tools and cleaning accesorrys.
spent pistol cases make good powder measures a .357 mag case is a good warm 'target' load of 3F, the smaller .38spcl case is a good 'target' or 'plinking' load.
a 7.62X39 (AK or SKS) case is about max when seating a felt atop then a ball. it's a fairly stout load.
 
The pistol is a brass frame and came with a case, holster, nipple wrench, powder measure, caps, wads, cleaning patches, capper, all for $155. I have experience with a number of modern weapons and have a Hawkens .54 percussion which I really like. I hope this helps in getting some answers. Roger
 
Keep your loads down to the 9mm/38Spl case volumes with a BP Brass framed revolver. (about 18~24 Gr by vol.) Its plenty to shoot & will keep the brass frame going for years.
Read up on the lubes & the strengths & weakness of same too I've found this to be one of the more "interesting" :youcrazy: :blah: :youcrazy: :blah: :redface: aspects of BP ownership.
:rotf:

Probably don't need to mention this with your previous BP rifle but do remember to remove & clean the nipples every time you fire the pistol. They can jam in the cylinder something 'orrible & you won't know till you come to replace them.
 
54cal said:
The pistol is a brass frame and came with a case, holster, nipple wrench, powder measure, caps, wads, cleaning patches, capper, all for $155. I have experience with a number of modern weapons and have a Hawkens .54 percussion which I really like. I hope this helps in getting some answers. Roger

The load for the brass frame was already mentioned. Sounds like you're most of the way set, and have enough experience with firearms as well as black powder. I'll just add that accuracy is maintained by repeating the loading process as closely as possible without any deviation in technique. By this I mean to not spill powder or seat the balls at a varying degree of pressure. Consistency is your friend, and a pistol loading stand is one of your best friends IMHO :thumbsup: .

Most revolvers out of the box will shoot about 6" high at 25 yards. If you got that thing for only a buck and a half, chances are that the original owner didn't put any additional time or money into it, so therefore I must assume that it's out-of-the-box? Since it's brass, check the frame where the back of the cylinder rides up against it in the slot for excessive wear. If none present (doesn't look chewed-up or imprinted), go ahead and have fun!

Dave
 
You can shoot it without any wad or filler but it is still a good idea to put some lube over the ball after loading. My load consists of 22 grn. fffg and .454 ball with #10 caps. I use a cornmeal filler to get the ball to the end of the cylinder. My loading sequence is powder, fill remaining chamber with cornmeal, place ball and ram home, then top with crisco.There are probably better lubes than crisco, it gets pretty messy in warm weather. I have a steel frame Pietta.One additional piece of advice is to lube the cylinder pin with a thick lube that won't melt out. This keeps fouling from building up in there and hindering rotation. I do not remove my nipples every time I clean.Because of the shallow thread depth, I am afraid of wear to threads from too much removal. Maybe every 3rd shoot I disassemble the whole thing and relube.
 
54cal said:
The pistol is a brass frame and came with a case, holster, nipple wrench, powder measure, caps, wads, cleaning patches, capper, all for $155. I have experience with a number of modern weapons and have a Hawkens .54 percussion which I really like. I hope this helps in getting some answers. Roger

Nice buy,I was watching that auction and almost bid on it..With all the stuff you got with it you stole it.. :thumbsup:
 
I have the same pistol in brass with the 12" barrel and have been using 27 gr. of pyrodex load with a wonderwad and 454 ball. After about 200 rounds there is no apparent wear or "stretch" to
the frame.
Stew
 
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