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Nipples Stuck

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stevew

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Just purchased a Pedersoli double and I broke 2 nipple wrenches trying to get them out. Any ideas how to get them out without damaging the barrels?
 
I am a firm believer in Kroil and time. I had a friend who's grandson had shot his revolvers and put them in a damp basement with out cleaning them. The first one took me a week and a full can of PB blaster to get the nipples loose and I broke over twelve nipple wrenches . I got an add for Kroil while I was working on them so I bought a can and soaked the second one in kroil and let it set over night. I got all of the nipples loose in an hour with out breaking a nipple wrench. Revolvers require a thin walled nipple wrench which break easily so the kroil was a real money and time saver!
 
Kroil. It creeps (and evaporates). Really, really works. Many nipple wrenches are made of too-soft material. Blister-pack ones are mostly j.u.n.k. When you find one that's strong and fits, get another exactly like it. Kroil loosens bolts on old farm equipment left out so long lichens have grown on them. Nice.
 
Just purchased a Pedersoli double and I broke 2 nipple wrenches trying to get them out. Any ideas how to get them out without damaging the barrels?
First things first. Have you confirmed that neither barrel is loaded? Is there a clear path from the bores through the nipples?

As suggested in above posts, soak the breech end of the barrels in Kroil, an acetone ATF mix or similar. Pour some down the barrels if the nipples are clogged, otherwise, just put enough of your chosen solvent in a small container to cover the nipples and stand the barrel up in an out of the spot for a few days.

While the above soak is going on, purchase a couple of better nipple wrenches. If after the soak you break another wrench or strip the nipples, time to move up to the next level. Get yourself a set of left hand drills and Easyouts (aka screw extractor). While not toolroom grade stuff, Harbor Freight sells what you need for a few dollars. You may find that just drilling out a hole in the nipple for the Easyout with a left hand drill may be enough to remove it.

Once you get the nipples out, check the condition of the threaded holes the nipples go in. There is the possibility they are compromised from the corrosion that held the nipples in place. Correcting damaged threads is a different topic, but doable if necessary.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=left hand drill bit set
 
PB blaster and Kroil won't harm the barrels as far as removing finish will it?
Your gun has a hooked breech. I'd pull the barrels to better work on a stuck nipple.
Kroil has not harmed the finish (wood or metal) on any of my guns. Don't know about PB blaster, since it has something to make it an aresol or spray...
 
Kroil is the way to go.

I use a socket and the impact drive Ive had since I was 14.

I remove all my cones with a socket, and a 1/4 drive ratchet.
Carry it in my 1860 bag.

31cE8SGIewL._AC_.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info guys. I have them soaking in PB blaster as no one in my small town had kroil.
 
Heat, Kroil, Time. Heat, Kroil, Time. Tap tap tap. Heat, tap tap, Kroil, time. Kroil. Time. tap tap.

The Chapman CM-13 with nipple sockets will allow you to apply some shock force with torque at the same time. If you break the ratchet hex, as I have once done, you can go to a 1/4" impact driver, like this.

https://www.jbtools.com/titan-tools...driver/?refSrc=9818&nosto=productpage-nosto-1
Be sure the barrel is well secured before striking the driver.

HEAT, KROIL, and LIGHT TAPPING will go a long way in the seized metal departments.

I have also been known to use the Ted Cash nipple sockets chucked in a 12v Milwaukee 1/4" hex drive impact gun. GINGER and JUDICIAL use of this method is highly recommended. Should only take place after many reptitions of the above heat kroil time routine. Last resort kind of thing.
 
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Kroil

A close second is 50/50 acetone/ATF
has been posted before here
This from homemachinist

Do not know "soak time" of the 'contestants'....

Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.
 
Pedersoli double.........

Soldered barrels? Carefull with heat. Maybe some quick passes with a tiny oxy acetylene tip. Be really careful with this.
Drilling? Careful, what happens when the hard nipple breaks the bit and you have no way to grab the nipple?
Cutting slots.......... The slot will never have the purchase the original flats did, which were insufficient.

I'd soak the heck out of it. Acetone and ATF is about the best you can use. I'd refresh the flats with a Dremel. I'd make a quality nipple wrench that fits the nipple closely. Put the wrench on and tap the wrench with a small hammer for a few minuets. The idea to break up rust in the threads. You can also tap the nipple if it is intact. Then secure the wrench from slipping and put toque on it. Bump it over and over. IF the wrench fits and is good steel, the nipple will budge.

Good luck
 
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