No Metal Reciever Under Hammer, what do ya think?

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fw,

Do a search for [ underhammer logan ] you will find some books for sale from $50-$75. Or keep your eyes open on e-bay, one of each, just went for around $20.

Logans two books are:
Underhammer Guns
The Pictorial History of the Underhammer Gun

One of my buddies has a local book store search him.

bs
my web page
 
Apparently Logan published 2 books on the underhammer.
Underhammer Guns and The Pictorial History Of The Underhammer Gun.


Acording to copyright page of "The Pictorial History", the earlier edition was published as "Underhammer Guns".


"The Pictorial History" is a good reference but hard to find (out of print)... try Ebay or a Google search on "herschel logan underhammer". Prices vary on the book...


Guess I was a little slow on the trigger :redface:
 
Slamfire,

I went and looked at the underhammers at Guns America listing. It would be easy to make a 1/2" wide trigger assembly that would hold also hold the hammer. You could use the nipple to hold and locate the front, and a screw on the tang in the rear. Just use a gun witha thick wrist, like a Hawken. A Fullstock Hawken Underhammer!

There's a couple on Guns America listings, here a pic of the best looking one.

underhammer
 
thank you i just started uesing this thing a week ago i did find books but got cut off trying to order ill try ebay also all i have found are like you said 50 60 and up fw :front: :front:
 
Slamfire,

I went and looked at the underhammers at Guns America listing. It would be easy to make a 1/2" wide trigger assembly that would hold also hold the hammer. You could use the nipple to hold and locate the front, and a screw on the tang in the rear. Just use a gun witha thick wrist, like a Hawken. A Fullstock Hawken Underhammer!

There's a couple on Guns America listings, here a pic of the best looking one.

underhammer

Easier said than done guys I am in the process of building Two now with a full stock and the problems I ran into were that by the time you set up a hammer/ trigger set up with springs ect it gets so long that you wind up into the wrist which is not a good deal. I come up with my own design which since I do not have a Machine shop ect I used available material to complete this, What I did is make a capped tube that holds a coil spring and striker to strike the nipple that I fixed into the stock 90 degrees to hit the nipple. A hole is drilled from the side of the stock for a inspection hole to get at the nipple to cap and to clean out the used cap. This will be covered with a brass plate that will be able to open to access the hole. Anyway the striker is pulled back like one in a inline only this one is 90 degrees with the stock to strike the underhammer nipple. A steel piece which I have not made yet will act like a sear and hold the striker back in place and a trigger set up which I have not done yet either will release the sear and let the striker hit the cap. This part I have tried and the spring is strong enough for the striker to pop the cap so I am on my way. It may look a bit strange to some but then so are some other designs I have seen on underhammers. In Logans book it shows a long flat spring fixed to the forarm with a hammer/ stiker on the end of it with a trigger/sear that lets the spring/hammer fall and hit the nipple it is of a European design. Remember when you were a kid and found out that a butter knife would spring and vibrate or wack something when bent and released well this European set up is like that principle Pull the spring back and hold it with a sear and then let it go to hit the cap. My system is kinda the same only instead of a flat spring with a striker on the end of it I am using a tube with a self contained coil spring/ striker set up. I could not use the flat spring set up as I could not fix it to the stock as if I did I would go through the ram rod hole to fasten it which would render the ram rod hole useless. I even have safety set up on this too. I will post some pics when I get it more close to finished. Actually I am working on two at the same time if you guys remember I posted about this earlier as I had gotten two inline Knight barrels cheap and converted them to fixed breech with a nipple seated in the bottom of the barrel. So one will be a 54 cal fast twist 1/28 inch twist green mountain barrel and the other is a 12 guage with Remington Choke tubes. I had gotten both of these barrels for 30 bucks a pop on a close out they were listed as 180 bucks. Well I could not resist a bargain so now I am building these guns slowly but things are coming along at a better pace now. Every thing is by scratch and done by hand so it is taking me a while. While they will be functional they will not have the look some get as I am not that artistic. They will be plain Jane but functional. Jim
 
thanks guys books are on the way fw3 :front: :front: :front:
in 24 hours that all this got posted the 4 cheaper books got sold while i was trying to get them 8 books in lets say 30 mins (im slow) must be a lot of intrest in these,i just fell on to them years ago when i saw/ held a Billinghurst target rifle.some of these set records that(if i remeber this right) took 60 years to match some guys here in texas that shoot guns that load from the wrong end :sharps ect ,at 300 thru 1000 yards have been playing with the right(front loaders)rifles and one underhammer(wood) with a 26" barrl and 457 bullet is just about to beat his sharps shooting,im just wasteing space here but it is something to think about the Billinghurst was a killer shot at 550 and 1100 whaqt ever thaT IS IN RODS. :front: :front:
 
I got to get the stock work done yet and the trigger assembly. But I could post pics before I do the stock work. The stocks are bedded and the barrels are fit to the stocks. The striker set up is in place. Working on the butt plates and toe plates now from sheet brass. As soon as I figure out what I want to use for a sear/trigger arrangement I will post pics before the stock finsihing is is done. I may even post some so you can see the general idea with out finishing the trigger/sear work just run a piece to brace it ( cock it ) so you can see what I am doing.
 
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