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No patches/wads for revolvers?

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sidpost

32 Cal
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Oct 7, 2022
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I was watching some YouTube black powder videos and they mentioned not needing patches or wads to shoot. They were loading balls so, I questioned this being a reasonable way to load. Or, perhaps they had some 'special' cylinder mod to support this?

Can you load without patches or wads in any revolver? Is this just a trick for plinking a lot of rounds?

TIA,
Sid
 
I just go on Ebay and buy Tallow by the gallon, and fill up empty dip cans with it. I finger dab over the chamber is way more effective at keeping fouling soft than the wad

If you want to be totally historically correct, buy Lard at the store and use it, like the Texas Rangers did in their Walkers.

Chain Fires happen from improperly fitted balls or loose caps.

For what it's worth Colt says in their instructions not to use any kind of wad between the powder and ball
 
Thanks! The YouTube I watched made it sound like he had a special Ruger that allowed him to load without wads or patches.

I could see a Mini-Ball base swelling to seal the barrel like a patch but, I didn't realize a good lead ball would seal it too.
 
I just go on Ebay and buy Tallow by the gallon, and fill up empty dip cans with it. I finger dab over the chamber is way more effective at keeping fouling soft than the wad

If you want to be totally historically correct, buy Lard at the store and use it, like the Texas Rangers did in their Walkers.

Chain Fires happen from improperly fitted balls or loose caps.

For what it's worth Colt says in their instructions not to use any kind of wad between the powder and ball
I perused the articles on this site thoroughly while I was waiting for my first-ever BP revolver to arrive, a few years ago (link below). One of the subjects he discussed at length had to do with chain fires. He did extensive experimentation with loose caps, among other variables, to try to initiate chain fires. Through his experimentation, he discovered that sloppy powder management was responsible for chain fires, as the powder became "entrained" from the mouth of the chamber, between the ball and chamber, and then back to the main charge itself.

http://geojohn.org/BlackPowder/bps2Mobile.html
I only mention this because you brought up chain fires, and I thought you might find the article interesting. Actually, his whole blog page on black powder is very interesting--kind of hard to put down once you start.

Dabbing lube around the chamber mouths, as you mentioned, is what I also do, and I learned that technique from this guy's site. Rather that full-on wads, he recommended just cork disks to go between the charge and the ball so that the lube around the chamber mouths won't get pushed into the powder and contaminate it when you ram the ball home. I measured my chamber mouths with a caliper to get the right size of cork disks, and they fit very precisely, so they sit right inside the chamber mouths when I insert them, and they have to be pressed down onto the powder with a brass rod. I use the rammer, initially to make sure they don't get too tilted when they go in and then use the brass rod to gently tap them the rest of the way in.

Eight cylinders is the most I've ever fired in one session, and the fouling mitigation from dabbing lube around the chamber mouths before ramming the balls home does a great job at keeping the fouling soft. Up to the last shot, I don't get any sort of accuracy loss that makes me have to punch the bore.
 
When I short a BP revolver, it was a Ruger. I didn't know anything then. Never heard of chain fires. I had heard to fill the cylinder so I used powder, ball, a filler and a wad. Now I think the filler and wall were unnecessary. I learned that here. Now I would load powder, wad, ball. Got a Pietta1858 coming.
 
I was watching some YouTube black powder videos and they mentioned not needing patches or wads to shoot. They were loading balls so, I questioned this being a reasonable way to load. Or, perhaps they had some 'special' cylinder mod to support this?

Can you load without patches or wads in any revolver? Is this just a trick for plinking a lot of rounds?

TIA,
Sid
Wads aren’t necessary. At all. They do have uses but literally hundreds of tons of bare round ball have been shot from these guns with no chain fires. Make sure your ball is a few thousands over chamber dimensions and bang away. If shooting a Colt you won’t even notice the lack of lube for dozens of shots.

I do use vegetable fiber wads, .030”x.465” over the powder because I shoot bullets most often and they benefit from this but they’re not strictly necessary.
 
Patches cannot be used really, wads can be, but don't have to be. Most people use wads and/or lard, Bore Butter or some other grease to keep the fouling soft and/or to reduce leading in the bore. In hot weather, grease melts and runs down your leg, so Wonder Wads are a better option. I've never attempted to fire a percussion revolver dry of lube, though I suppose there is no real reason I couldn't do so. It isn't like I am going to be in an extended gun battle. Usually, a cylinder or two... maybe three and I am done shooting. You don't get much fouling or leading from fifteen shots... but that would be about the time your cylinder starts to get sticky from fouling that leaked onto the arbor.

The arbor is something that you DO need to grease up good... and not with Bore Butter. Use white lithium or just any bearing grease really. It's a mess to clean up, butcha gotta do whatcha gotta do.
 
Patches WE Don't need no stinking patches!.jpg
 
My experience has been, that the big horse pistols like Dragoons and Walkers running 50-60gr charges need more than just a wad IF you want to shoot several cylinders without field stripping , but if you don't mind taking them down to wipe them out, wads will do a good job keeping the bore from crusting up

I use tallow or in a pinch Crisco, to keep the arbor fouling soft and the gun will run all day. The most I've had to do was wipe the hammer down.

I've put 100+ through a Walker without field stripping by just smearing Crisco over the chambers
 
Sure back in the 1800's most were loaded without wads or grease over the balls, but even though the steel back then wasn't the quality it is today, their cappers were in a whole different league. Better tolerances, timing, and the caps really fit the nipples better (cones if you wish). Things have gotten some better with reproduction revolvers than they were back in the 1960-70's era and more information and knowledge is available. I started out with a 1972 era Euroarms and it was a nightmare to shoot, ie timing, cap fit. There just wasn't the number of shooters back then requiring better guns. I've noticed a huge difference in bore cleanliness since I quit the grease over the ball and switched over to a lubed wad. Even the Ox-Yoke wads I add more home brew lube to. In the summer time I use a stiffer lube that is not as affected by hot days and any cold weather shooting I use a lube than doesn't make the felt wad hard and not pliable.

Most of the writers and such shooting percussion revolvers advocate a wad between powder and ball. I'll agree it isn't totally necessary, but IMO and many others it's a big helper. If I were going to not fire a loaded percussion revolver for some time, especially in fairly warm and hot weather, I'd probably refrain from a wad, especially a lubed one, but that is rare. The cappers aren't a self defense weapon for me. If walking along a river or wooded area plinking I might carry a loaded capper for up to an hour maybe without firing, but I've never had one fail in years.

Stanman' I don't know where you learned the art of percussion shooting or get some of the ideas you post, but I can shoot my Walker and Dragoons alot and not have to take them down, swab the barrel, regrease the arbor or anything else. Back in the day of greasing over the balls, the revolvers especially from the chamber mouths and barrel would need wiping down at times, not to mention keeping a rag for greasy/oily hands. Firing the first or after the 2nd, the flames/heat would blow/melt the lube. Maybe your guns don't get dirty due to the fact you shoot too much 1F powder through them that isn't fully burning, lots of unburned powder is blowing out the barrel due to the larger grain size vs 2F or 3F. The Dragoon and Walker barrels just aren't long enough to burn 1F, much less heavy/max loads of 2 or 3F. You're the only person I know shooting 1F in percussion revolvers. All of the big-name magazine and on-line writers don't. Have never seen any ballistic charts advocating it. You yourself stated in another thread just recently that you bought 20-25 pounds of 1F not long ago and figured you might as well shoot it up. Telling others (especially new shooters) on this forum it is OK and reasonable to do so is not good responsibility as far as spewing facts about what to use IMO. If you want to do it, your right, but telling others when they ask what powder to use and you indicate its ok is a bit over the line. I could tell a diesel fueled vehicle owner it was ok to put gasoline in their tank and it will run is ok, but eventually they'll find out I was full of cattle droppings. I've known a few who tried, also those who put diesel in their gas tanks.

1F in every publication and charts I've seen in the last 51 years of black powder shooting rate 1F black powder for small cannons and big bore rifles 58 caliber and plus. All my 36 caliber revolvers and the 1860 size frame 44 caliber one's get 3F. I will shoot both 2 and 3F in my Dragoons and Walker but it seems 2F is getting the better choice of the two, although other than noticing less felt recoil with 2F vs 3F, I haven't noticed any difference in accuracy. It's a fact that 2F has a slower build up of pressure (lower pressure curve) than 3F. Same principle when you reload a smokeless cartridge, powders differ in burn rate, how fast they ignite, build pressure to push the bullet down the barrel, and how clean they burn. I reload my 44 Colt and 45 Colt metallic rounds with 2F, started with 3F some years ago then a long time shooter of the 44 and 45 Colts pointed out to me the pressure curve principle. Have since read some on the advantages of using 2F in a cartridge handgun. Can apply to black powder rifle also.

Its been proven that grease over the ball will not prevent chain fires. Many really seasoned shooters and writers have stated that the grease over the ball does little to prevent the barrel from getting 'gunked up'. A tight fitting ball, esp one that shaves a little lead and tight fitting caps are the biggest prevention. Those who have researched and done field tests have proven the tight vs loose percussion cap chain fire prevention. The Remington #10 caps I use for 99% of my shooting fight tight and never have any blow off when firing, if one does it is so rare that I can't recall the last time it happened. Rem and CCI 11's fit good also, but the Rem 10's have a longer skirt that goes down over the tapered shaft of the nipple. If I need to take any off before firing any, I need to take my fingernail or the edge of a knife blade under the cap and pop it off. Rem 10 and CCI and Rem #11's all have the same internal dimension at the top of the cap. The Rem 10's just have a longer skirt. CCI #10's have around a 0.005" decrease in internal dimension and the shortest skirt of any of them. That's why they don't fit worth a hoot, requiring a wooden dowl to seat them. I tired that and it made me nervous. Had split a brick of them with a fellow shooter, still have around 450 of them sitting in my cap storage container. My friend hasn't found a use for them either after 15 years or so when we bought them. (RWS 1075's are similar in dimensions to Rem and CCI #11's-I've used them some and they work all right in most instances but Rem 10's is my go too).

No intention in getting in a cyber argument with you 'Stanman', but in reading many of your posts over the last week or so you've stated alot of things pertaining to shooting and caring for a black powder revolver that are skeptical. If you want to argue, you'll have to do so with yourself. I'll discuss what I've learned in the 51 years of percussion shooting, have read, and listened to with you or anyone. If I'm wrong on something I'll change my thoughts and/or methods, but I won't adhere to ideas that I know go against the grain and may steer shooters the wrong way. I've seen alot of online forum shooters who want to argue, are too stubborn and/or uniformed to admit or consider the truth. By the way, I think I'll stock up on aluminum foil due to the fact that when your pioneering and ground breaking method of fixing the short arbors on Colt open top style guns by stuffing aluminum foil in the arbor hole hits the airwaves and percussion circles, store shelves will readily empty. Have a good day Stan and everyone on the forum. Crow Choker
 
Last edited:
I have tried conicals in both my 44 and 36 caliber calibers but find balls faster to load and don't have to mess around pan/sizer lubing. Alot of guys like em though, no problem with em in that respect. I do cast and shoot a 200 grain bullet similar to the bullet on the left of your picture. Load those in and for 44 Colt conversion Colts, also one of similar design for 45 Colt shooting black powder.
 
Sure back in the 1800's most were loaded without wads or grease over the balls, but even though the steel back then wasn't the quality it is today, their cappers were in a whole different league. Better tolerances, timing, and the caps really fit the nipples better (cones if you wish). Things have gotten some better with reproduction revolvers than they were back in the 1960-70's era and more information and knowledge is available. I started out with a 1972 era Euroarms and it was a nightmare to shoot, ie timing, cap fit. There just wasn't the number of shooters back then requiring better guns. I've noticed a huge difference in bore cleanliness since I quit the grease over the ball and switched over to a lubed wad. Even the Ox-Yoke wads I add more home brew lube to. In the summer time I use a stiffer lube that is not as affected by hot days and any cold weather shooting I use a lube than doesn't make the felt wad hard and not pliable.

Most of the writers and such shooting percussion revolvers advocate a wad between powder and ball. I'll agree it isn't totally necessary, but IMO and many others it's a big helper. If I were going to not fire a loaded percussion revolver for some time, especially in fairly warm and hot weather, I'd probably refrain from a wad, especially a lubed one, but that is rare. The cappers aren't a self defense weapon for me. If walking along a river or wooded area plinking I might carry a loaded capper for up to an hour maybe without firing, but I've never had one fail in years.

Stanman' I don't know where you learned the art of percussion shooting or get some of the ideas you post, but I can shoot my Walker and Dragoons alot and not have to take them down, swab the barrel, regrease the arbor or anything else. Back in the day of greasing over the balls, the revolvers especially from the chamber mouths and barrel would need wiping down at times, not to mention keeping a rag for greasy/oily hands. Firing the first or after the 2nd, the flames/heat would blow/melt the lube. Maybe your guns don't get dirty due to the fact you shoot too much 1F powder through them that isn't fully burning, lots of unburned powder is blowing out the barrel due to the larger grain size vs 2F or 3F. The Dragoon and Walker barrels just aren't long enough to burn 1F, much less heavy/max loads of 2 or 3F. You're the only person I know shooting 1F in percussion revolvers. All of the big-name magazine and on-line writers don't. Have never seen any ballistic charts advocating it. You yourself stated in another thread just recently that you bought 20-25 pounds of 1F not long ago and figured you might as well shoot it up. Telling others (especially new shooters) on this forum it is OK and reasonable to do so is not good responsibility as far as spewing facts about what to use IMO. If you want to do it, your right, but telling others when they ask what powder to use and you indicate its ok is a bit over the line. I could tell a diesel fueled vehicle owner it was ok to put gasoline in their tank and it will run is ok, but eventually they'll find out I was full of cattle droppings. I've known a few who tried, also those who put diesel in their gas tanks.

1F in every publication and charts I've seen in the last 51 years of black powder shooting rate 1F black powder for small cannons and big bore rifles 58 caliber and plus. All my 36 caliber revolvers and the 1860 size frame 44 caliber one's get 3F. I will shoot both 2 and 3F in my Dragoons and Walker but it seems 2F is getting the better choice of the two, although other than noticing less felt recoil with 2F vs 3F, I haven't noticed any difference in accuracy. It's a fact that 2F has a slower build up of pressure (lower pressure curve) than 3F. Same principle when you reload a smokeless cartridge, powders differ in burn rate, how fast they ignite, build pressure to push the bullet down the barrel, and how clean they burn. I reload my 44 Colt and 45 Colt metallic rounds with 2F, started with 3F some years ago then a long time shooter of the 44 and 45 Colts pointed out to me the pressure curve principle. Have since read some on the advantages of using 2F in a cartridge handgun. Can apply to black powder rifle also.

Its been proven that grease over the ball will not prevent chain fires. Many really seasoned shooters and writers have stated that the grease over the ball does little to prevent the barrel from getting 'gunked up'. A tight fitting ball, esp one that shaves a little lead and tight fitting caps are the biggest prevention. Those who have researched and done field tests have proven the tight vs loose percussion cap chain fire prevention. The Remington #10 caps I use for 99% of my shooting fight tight and never have any blow off when firing, if one does it is so rare that I can't recall the last time it happened. Rem and CCI 11's fit good also, but the Rem 10's have a longer skirt that goes down over the tapered shaft of the nipple. If I need to take any off before firing any, I need to take my fingernail or the edge of a knife blade under the cap and pop it off. Rem 10 and CCI and Rem #11's all have the same internal dimension at the top of the cap. The Rem 10's just have a longer skirt. CCI #10's have around a 0.005" decrease in internal dimension and the shortest skirt of any of them. That's why they don't fit worth a hoot, requiring a wooden dowl to seat them. I tired that and it made me nervous. Had split a brick of them with a fellow shooter, still have around 450 of them sitting in my cap storage container. My friend hasn't found a use for them either after 15 years or so when we bought them. (RWS 1075's are similar in dimensions to Rem and CCI #11's-I've used them some and they work all right in most instances but Rem 10's is my go too).

No intention in getting in a cyber argument with you 'Stanman', but in reading many of your posts over the last week or so you've stated alot of things pertaining to shooting and caring for a black powder revolver that are skeptical. If you want to argue, you'll have to do so with yourself. I'll discuss what I've learned in the 51 years of percussion shooting, have read, and listened to with you or anyone. If I'm wrong on something I'll change my thoughts and/or methods, but I won't adhere to ideas that I know go against the grain and may steer shooters the wrong way. I've seen alot of online forum shooters who want to argue, are too stubborn and/or uniformed to admit or consider the truth. By the way, I think I'll stock up on aluminum foil due to the fact that when your pioneering and ground breaking method of fixing the short arbors on Colt open top style guns by stuffing aluminum foil in the arbor hole hits the airwaves and percussion circles, store shelves will readily empty. Have a good day Stan and everyone on the forum. Crow Choker
I suspect the old timers did clean carefully after shooting because, not the powder, but because of the mercury fulminate or what ever the percussive material that was used in caps, It was a great day when Winchester came out withthe new "Staynless" noncorrosive caps. Before that the caps we used were corrosive as all get out and would almost start rusting while you were reloading.
In the late 40'ss I think I paid a whopping $25 for my 1851 Navy without a shred of finish but a pretty good bore. My mentor told me to swab the bore thoroughly in warm soapy water, rinse, dry, oil and check the next day. The same method is used by me still today old habits die hard.
At least that is my experience
Respectfully
Bunk
 
I just go on Ebay and buy Tallow by the gallon, and fill up empty dip cans with it. I finger dab over the chamber is way more effective at keeping fouling soft than the wad

If you want to be totally historically correct, buy Lard at the store and use it, like the Texas Rangers did in their Walkers.

Chain Fires happen from improperly fitted balls or loose caps.

For what it's worth Colt says in their instructions not to use any kind of wad between the powder and ball

Don’t use dip, it’s very bad for your health. Try Swedish snus, the father of American dip. It’s processed and manufactured in a way that all but eliminates carcinogens and has been heavily studied with no links to increased disease risk of any kind.
 
Sure back in the 1800's most were loaded without wads or grease over the balls, but even though the steel back then wasn't the quality it is today, their cappers were in a whole different league. Better tolerances, timing, and the caps really fit the nipples better (cones if you wish). Things have gotten some better with reproduction revolvers than they were back in the 1960-70's era and more information and knowledge is available. I started out with a 1972 era Euroarms and it was a nightmare to shoot, ie timing, cap fit. There just wasn't the number of shooters back then requiring better guns. I've noticed a huge difference in bore cleanliness since I quit the grease over the ball and switched over to a lubed wad. Even the Ox-Yoke wads I add more home brew lube to. In the summer time I use a stiffer lube that is not as affected by hot days and any cold weather shooting I use a lube than doesn't make the felt wad hard and not pliable.

Most of the writers and such shooting percussion revolvers advocate a wad between powder and ball. I'll agree it isn't totally necessary, but IMO and many others it's a big helper. If I were going to not fire a loaded percussion revolver for some time, especially in fairly warm and hot weather, I'd probably refrain from a wad, especially a lubed one, but that is rare. The cappers aren't a self defense weapon for me. If walking along a river or wooded area plinking I might carry a loaded capper for up to an hour maybe without firing, but I've never had one fail in years.

Stanman' I don't know where you learned the art of percussion shooting or get some of the ideas you post, but I can shoot my Walker and Dragoons alot and not have to take them down, swab the barrel, regrease the arbor or anything else. Back in the day of greasing over the balls, the revolvers especially from the chamber mouths and barrel would need wiping down at times, not to mention keeping a rag for greasy/oily hands. Firing the first or after the 2nd, the flames/heat would blow/melt the lube. Maybe your guns don't get dirty due to the fact you shoot too much 1F powder through them that isn't fully burning, lots of unburned powder is blowing out the barrel due to the larger grain size vs 2F or 3F. The Dragoon and Walker barrels just aren't long enough to burn 1F, much less heavy/max loads of 2 or 3F. You're the only person I know shooting 1F in percussion revolvers. All of the big-name magazine and on-line writers don't. Have never seen any ballistic charts advocating it. You yourself stated in another thread just recently that you bought 20-25 pounds of 1F not long ago and figured you might as well shoot it up. Telling others (especially new shooters) on this forum it is OK and reasonable to do so is not good responsibility as far as spewing facts about what to use IMO. If you want to do it, your right, but telling others when they ask what powder to use and you indicate its ok is a bit over the line. I could tell a diesel fueled vehicle owner it was ok to put gasoline in their tank and it will run is ok, but eventually they'll find out I was full of cattle droppings. I've known a few who tried, also those who put diesel in their gas tanks.

1F in every publication and charts I've seen in the last 51 years of black powder shooting rate 1F black powder for small cannons and big bore rifles 58 caliber and plus. All my 36 caliber revolvers and the 1860 size frame 44 caliber one's get 3F. I will shoot both 2 and 3F in my Dragoons and Walker but it seems 2F is getting the better choice of the two, although other than noticing less felt recoil with 2F vs 3F, I haven't noticed any difference in accuracy. It's a fact that 2F has a slower build up of pressure (lower pressure curve) than 3F. Same principle when you reload a smokeless cartridge, powders differ in burn rate, how fast they ignite, build pressure to push the bullet down the barrel, and how clean they burn. I reload my 44 Colt and 45 Colt metallic rounds with 2F, started with 3F some years ago then a long time shooter of the 44 and 45 Colts pointed out to me the pressure curve principle. Have since read some on the advantages of using 2F in a cartridge handgun. Can apply to black powder rifle also.

Its been proven that grease over the ball will not prevent chain fires. Many really seasoned shooters and writers have stated that the grease over the ball does little to prevent the barrel from getting 'gunked up'. A tight fitting ball, esp one that shaves a little lead and tight fitting caps are the biggest prevention. Those who have researched and done field tests have proven the tight vs loose percussion cap chain fire prevention. The Remington #10 caps I use for 99% of my shooting fight tight and never have any blow off when firing, if one does it is so rare that I can't recall the last time it happened. Rem and CCI 11's fit good also, but the Rem 10's have a longer skirt that goes down over the tapered shaft of the nipple. If I need to take any off before firing any, I need to take my fingernail or the edge of a knife blade under the cap and pop it off. Rem 10 and CCI and Rem #11's all have the same internal dimension at the top of the cap. The Rem 10's just have a longer skirt. CCI #10's have around a 0.005" decrease in internal dimension and the shortest skirt of any of them. That's why they don't fit worth a hoot, requiring a wooden dowl to seat them. I tired that and it made me nervous. Had split a brick of them with a fellow shooter, still have around 450 of them sitting in my cap storage container. My friend hasn't found a use for them either after 15 years or so when we bought them. (RWS 1075's are similar in dimensions to Rem and CCI #11's-I've used them some and they work all right in most instances but Rem 10's is my go too).

No intention in getting in a cyber argument with you 'Stanman', but in reading many of your posts over the last week or so you've stated alot of things pertaining to shooting and caring for a black powder revolver that are skeptical. If you want to argue, you'll have to do so with yourself. I'll discuss what I've learned in the 51 years of percussion shooting, have read, and listened to with you or anyone. If I'm wrong on something I'll change my thoughts and/or methods, but I won't adhere to ideas that I know go against the grain and may steer shooters the wrong way. I've seen alot of online forum shooters who want to argue, are too stubborn and/or uniformed to admit or consider the truth. By the way, I think I'll stock up on aluminum foil due to the fact that when your pioneering and ground breaking method of fixing the short arbors on Colt open top style guns by stuffing aluminum foil in the arbor hole hits the airwaves and percussion circles, store shelves will readily empty. Have a good day Stan and everyone on the forum. Crow Choker
I am one who discovered the error of filling the tank of my '72 Olds Cutlass with Diesel fuel. .350 rocket V-8 engines just don't run well on it.
 
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