Nose cap

[Mike in FL]

My Colonial kit is going slow but well. Until I got to the nose cap. Jim's video clearly shows how to install it - fitting, gluing, and pinning with brads. He show sliding it on and off several times as he fits it, removing little bits of brass and cleaning up the wood. I did that. After 3 tries it still would not slide on. So I tilted the cap a bit at the barrel and tapped it into place with a wood mallet. Okay now it was time to take it off and apply apply the apoxy. Then after the glue dries, Jim takes the stock from the barrel with the cap glued to the stock.. Then he drills for the little brad nails and pins it to the stock. I left to buy some epoxy. . Got home only to discover I could not pull the nose cap off. Try as I might I can not get it to move. Not even with padded channel locks.
My question is, because its stuck in place, perfect fit, do I even NEED to take it off. So far I've done things just like Jim shows but now I'm wondering, especially because Jim said don't rely on the epoxy. What say you?

 

[Dangus]

I'd pin it and move on.

 

[Mule333]

I’m no expert but, if it were me. I’d put the barrel back in the stock and see if the nose cap lines up and is symmetrical with the side flats of the barrel. If it looks good from all angles then do as Dangus said and pin it. i guess it goes without saying that, that’s an area which will take a lot of use and abuse from loading. The pins will be more stable. If it doesn’t line up with the side barrel flats, you could try getting your wife’s hair dryer to heat up the nose cap to remove it.

 

[TDM]

@Mike in FL the advice already given is sound. As long as the barrel fit is good and you like the way it looks go ahead and pin it. You’ll be good to go.

 

[Mike in FL]

@Mike in FL the advice already given is sound. As long as the barrel fit is good and you like the way it looks go ahead and pin it. You’ll be good to go.

Thanks all. I will do just that. I love this place.

 

[simonbeans]

I have always preferred using a flat head wood screw to attach the nose cap. Here is a redrawn idea that works for me. I copied the illustration from Pete Alexander’s The Gunsmith of Grenville County p. 189.

 

[Phil Coffins]

As Simonbeans shows except a home made copper rivet works well. And if it fits don’t fix it!

 

[Polecat_Tom]

I like Phil Coffins copper rivet idea. I was putting together one of the Woodsrunners yesterday and the 4-40 brass screw for the nose cap cross threaded and snapped off. I spent about 1/2 hour getting it out.

 

[springfield art]

My Colonial kit is going slow but well. Until I got to the nose cap. Jim's video clearly shows how to install it - fitting, gluing, and pinning with brads. He show sliding it on and off several times as he fits it, removing little bits of brass and cleaning up the wood. I did that. After 3 tries it still would not slide on. So I tilted the cap a bit at the barrel and tapped it into place with a wood mallet. Okay now it was time to take it off and apply apply the apoxy. Then after the glue dries, Jim takes the stock from the barrel with the cap glued to the stock.. Then he drills for the little brad nails and pins it to the stock. I left to buy some epoxy. . Got home only to discover I could not pull the nose cap off. Try as I might I can not get it to move. Not even with padded channel locks.
My question is, because its stuck in place, perfect fit, do I even NEED to take it off. So far I've done things just like Jim shows but now I'm wondering, especially because Jim said don't rely on the epoxy. What say you?

Agree with Dangus.

 

[tenngun]

Epoxy was very expensive and had to be shipped from some when else with very high import taxes. Thus you don’t see to many originals with epoxy.
So I’ve never used much. I like bees wax if I need a filler and brads. I use two, set at .45 angles on both side.

 

[smo]

Epoxy will eventually turn loose…
Cleaning mixtures , alcohol and normal wear & tear all are culprits..

I used a copper upholstery tack then peened the point on the inside of the channel..

 

[DixieTexian]

Epoxy was very expensive and had to be shipped from some when else with very high import taxes. Thus you don’t see to many originals with epoxy.
So I’ve never used much. I like bees wax if I need a filler and brads. I use two, set at .45 angles on both side.

Not sure I agree with your research there. I have it on good authority, based on lots of primary documentation, that the original builders considered epoxy essential, and many refused to build without it.

 

[waksupi]

Not sure I agree with your research there. I have it on good authority, based on lots of primary documentation, that the original builders considered epoxy essential, and many refused to build without it.

I don't believe epoxy existed back in those days. I've built a couple hundred muzzleloaders, never glued a nose cap on any of them.

 

[DixieTexian]

Maybe look up every once in awhile?

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I you have to take it off get it to look right heat the cap with a torch on a low flame, being careful not to burn the wood. A little heat usually softens epoxy to where it will loosen up.

 

[waksupi]

Maybe look up every once in awhile?

Have you ever seen an original tube of epoxy? ;o)

 

[The Appalachian]

The initial discovery of a generic "epoxy" chemical reaction was in 1909 by a Russian chemist. Initially "used" in the 1930's by two Swiss dentists. In 1946 "Sylvan Greenlee, working for the Devoe & Raynolds Company, patented resin derived from bisphenol-A and epichlorohydrin."

Yeah, original rifle makers used epoxy.......right.

 

[smo]

Well…. They would have if they had of had it!

 

[hanshi]

I'm with Dangus and the others. If the cap is on that tight and fitted like you want it to be then pin it and forget it.

 

[omark]

Not sure I agree with your research there. I have it on good authority, based on lots of primary documentation, that the original builders considered epoxy essential, and many refused to build without it.

Sold under the trade name TWO TUBE PINE PITCH