Hi everybody.Being new to this and having one problem after another has not discuraged me but can somebody tell me if its me or my gun.I purchased a gun collection recently and came across and L.Day swivel breech in 54 cal.Elk season starts here in just a few days and I chose the L.Day for it.The first trip to the range for sight in only one barrel would fire consistently.I go out again and after swithing nipples I got the other barrel to fire but with long hesitation.That day I also broke the ramrod halfway through the shoot but did get one barrel sighted in.Today I went out with my huntin buddy to sight in the other barrel/I noticed the slow barrel started speeding up and all of a sudden both barrels wouldnt fire at all.After several caps on each barrel and no ignition I pulled the nipples and put some pistol powder down the hole and replaced the nipples and got ignition.Also after about ten shots I broke my buddies ramrod due to another stuck maxi in the barrel.Are these typical problems encountered or is the rifle poorly made.Am I doing something wrong and how can I insure this doesnt happen on an elk or mule deer.
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
nothing but problems
- Thread starter gain
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Elker, You're doing many things wrong. First of all, like I said before, you are overloading that L. Day swivel breech. Next, you should be using black powder, not 777. And, the L. Day guns are made to be used with a patched round ball instead of a maxi-ball. You have a very desireable rifle and you should use it as it as intended. Be good to that gun, for sure. Le Grand
Le Grand is giving you good advice. L Day swivels are made for PRB. Now get some real BP and PRBs before you ruin a fine gun. A .54 is large enough to kill elk out to resonable ranges. We are talking keep it inside of 125 yards.
Clean:::::::: that gun good it sounds like your fire channel between the nipple and your powder is dirty and getting dirtier.
Fox :thumbsup:
Clean:::::::: that gun good it sounds like your fire channel between the nipple and your powder is dirty and getting dirtier.
Fox :thumbsup:
Frank Briggs
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2006
- Messages
- 48
- Reaction score
- 0
This black powder thing looks simple.
Dump a little powder in there, cram some lead down the bore, and go for it, right?
Well, I'm finding out that there's a little more to it than that.
It took about two hundred shots with my simple caplock before I got it down to the point where I could load it and hit with anything even remotly like consistancy.
Listen to what the guys are telling you. they know what they're talking about. I doubted about half of what I read here... until I tried it!
And slow down. you can't master Black powder in a week. Take your time and enjoy the learning process. It's half the fun!
In the end it will be so worth the effort that you will be amazed. Each and every time I put that half inch hole in the bull's eye it puts a grin on my face that lasts for days. :grin:
Dump a little powder in there, cram some lead down the bore, and go for it, right?
Well, I'm finding out that there's a little more to it than that.
It took about two hundred shots with my simple caplock before I got it down to the point where I could load it and hit with anything even remotly like consistancy.
Listen to what the guys are telling you. they know what they're talking about. I doubted about half of what I read here... until I tried it!
And slow down. you can't master Black powder in a week. Take your time and enjoy the learning process. It's half the fun!
In the end it will be so worth the effort that you will be amazed. Each and every time I put that half inch hole in the bull's eye it puts a grin on my face that lasts for days. :grin:
Guest
50 cal Frank said:
That's why the lazy inlines guys don't like them. It's way too much work and thought for them.
:rotf:
I'll tell ya what. If you send the gun to me, I will volunteer my time and services, out of the kindness of my heart, to take care of it and shoot it until such time as it will cosistently shoot one hole groups at 200 yards. Just send me the rifle and a few cans of Goex and I'll get started right away! :grin:
Well heck, i am neighborly too. I will do the same thing and you can even keep the Goex.
Nah i'll wear gloves. :grin:
It sounds like your reliability problems are due to fouling. Clean it thoroughly, nipple flash channels included, and it should fire quicker.
If you're using 777, you could be getting a ring of hard fouling that's making it hard to load. That's common with that powder and Pyrodex. As others have recommended, I'd switch to real black powder and a patched round ball.
Hang in there and don't give up. It takes a little time to figure them out, but in the end, it's very satisfying...and addictive!
If you're using 777, you could be getting a ring of hard fouling that's making it hard to load. That's common with that powder and Pyrodex. As others have recommended, I'd switch to real black powder and a patched round ball.
Hang in there and don't give up. It takes a little time to figure them out, but in the end, it's very satisfying...and addictive!
elker,
I am with the rest, use real blackpowder
and PRB. A .54 PRB will certainly do a job on
an elk, assuming you do your part. If you do not
have your problems worked out by hunt day, leave
that gun at home and use something you are
comfortable with. You owe it to yourself and the
animal you are hunting.IMO
snake-eyes :hmm:
I am with the rest, use real blackpowder
and PRB. A .54 PRB will certainly do a job on
an elk, assuming you do your part. If you do not
have your problems worked out by hunt day, leave
that gun at home and use something you are
comfortable with. You owe it to yourself and the
animal you are hunting.IMO
snake-eyes :hmm:
kentucky bucky
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2004
- Messages
- 586
- Reaction score
- 1
Sorry that you have to put up with a piece of junk like that, so just wrap it up and send it to me immediately. I will dispose of it properly and send you a voucher for a new inline. :winking:
Really though, the advise you are getting is right! Remember also proper patch thickness and lube.
Really though, the advise you are getting is right! Remember also proper patch thickness and lube.
After you shoot, are you cleaning? If you are( I always clean between shots.) Make sure you don"t use too much liquid, what ever it is, as this will get in breach area and clog up your flash channel. If it gets too damp the powder will clomp up. Just damp a cleaning patch, dom"t get it too wet. You have to have it with some moisture, or the patch will hang up. Dilly
If you are new to black powder you may be letting the swivel gun get in the way. If the gun was a single barrel and you were having the same troubles you would concentrate on the shooting procedure, so let's do that.
This may be a bit overdone, but....
1. Make sure the gun is clean at the beginning of the shoot., remove the nipples and use pipe cleaners. You don't want to remove the clean out screw too often but if the drum has a clean out screw- remove it and run a pipe cleaner into the bore. You should now have a clean, crud free passage.
2. Use only black powder, the non-black is just as corrosive and IMHO offers no advantages. It is harder to ignite and in a sidelock that could make a difference.
3. You may want to consider an upgraded nipple that directs more of the flash from the percussion cap into the charge, or, use a nipple that takes musket caps- which produce more flash.
4. Use a PRB.
5.Load and fire, should be okay provided the caps are going off. If the caps aren't going off then the hammer allignment may be off.
6. Now for the fun part, at this point the barrel is full of black powder residue. If you swab between shots you may push some of this crud into the drum area and plug up the hole. For this reason, if you swab between shots put a cap on the unloaded bore(after swabbing) and point the muzzle at a blade of grass and pop a cap. Enough pressure from the cap ought to push the blade of grass- this step insures there is a clear passage to the bore.
7. Put in your powder charge, then hold the gun lock down and gently tap the drum area to encourage a few grains of black into the drum area- further improving ignition.
8. Seat your ball and you should be good to go. If you are still having trouble some folks vent the drum(explained in the DGW catalog) but it is generally not necessary.
9. Try this procedure on each barrel and if you are still having trouble let us know.
This may be a bit overdone, but....
1. Make sure the gun is clean at the beginning of the shoot., remove the nipples and use pipe cleaners. You don't want to remove the clean out screw too often but if the drum has a clean out screw- remove it and run a pipe cleaner into the bore. You should now have a clean, crud free passage.
2. Use only black powder, the non-black is just as corrosive and IMHO offers no advantages. It is harder to ignite and in a sidelock that could make a difference.
3. You may want to consider an upgraded nipple that directs more of the flash from the percussion cap into the charge, or, use a nipple that takes musket caps- which produce more flash.
4. Use a PRB.
5.Load and fire, should be okay provided the caps are going off. If the caps aren't going off then the hammer allignment may be off.
6. Now for the fun part, at this point the barrel is full of black powder residue. If you swab between shots you may push some of this crud into the drum area and plug up the hole. For this reason, if you swab between shots put a cap on the unloaded bore(after swabbing) and point the muzzle at a blade of grass and pop a cap. Enough pressure from the cap ought to push the blade of grass- this step insures there is a clear passage to the bore.
7. Put in your powder charge, then hold the gun lock down and gently tap the drum area to encourage a few grains of black into the drum area- further improving ignition.
8. Seat your ball and you should be good to go. If you are still having trouble some folks vent the drum(explained in the DGW catalog) but it is generally not necessary.
9. Try this procedure on each barrel and if you are still having trouble let us know.
Hi and alright,I get the message,No I havent been cleaning between shots I thought once it started going off it should keep on going off.I have 777 because that was all I could find here.I have an old cva mountain rifle which I picked up with the L.Day rifle which goes off every time and shoots one ragged hole at 100 yrds with 100grns of 777 with maxis also.Through this site I have met a builder who is local and will help me fashion a new ramrod for the day rifle.Why do I have to shoot only roundballs if it shoots the maxis straight and accurately when it does shoot.I could shoot the cva but I would be going against the law since here in montana for elk the smallest is 50 cal.I sold my 30.06 and 3030 to get these guns because I liked muzzleloading.I guess I have killed so many animals with modern rifles that I wanted a new challenge.Sorry I havent a clue.It doesnt meen I am disregarding any advice or dont want to listen.Elk season starts in 2 days.The place I hunt I am almost garanteed a shot at a bull but not sure if it will be 50 yrds or 250 but just want to be sure the gun goes off.
Well, my advice is to put the MLer away and buy another 30/06 if you plan to take shots over 100 yds. And if the Mountain rifle you have is a .45 cal. then you are also using way to much powder and projectile in that one too. These guns are NOT MAGNUMS and you shouldn't try to make them be. In the Mt Rifle a load of 60-70 grs is about right with a rd ball. All you are doing is stessing the guns and risking hurting yourself and others by shooting those charges.
Is there a possibility that there are "dry balls" already in the barrels??? prior to your acquiring it???
this would cause potential blockage of the fire channel out of the snail/drum. ...just a thought.
I would not call off your elk trip at this point...still time to figure it out. pick up a range rod to get you by.
I'm thinking there is a ball set in the brech end of the barrels.
Brett
this would cause potential blockage of the fire channel out of the snail/drum. ...just a thought.
I would not call off your elk trip at this point...still time to figure it out. pick up a range rod to get you by.
I'm thinking there is a ball set in the brech end of the barrels.
Brett
Not real likely since he says it shoots fine some of the time. I think it is a matter of him not knowing a thing about MLer's and needing time to get used to them. You can't pick one up for the first time a week before elk season and expect to know all about loading, shooting, and cleaning if before the season starts. Take time to learn what you are doing and use one next year. JMO
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
-
Does anyone make/sell something like a snap cap cone to dry fire a revolver?
- Latest: Colonial Boy
-
-
-
