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Oak dowel for ram rod.

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howdydoit

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okay Went to local wood dealer today looking around and went past the dowel selection.

I found oak dowel that would fit a rifle I have at home and thought Maybe I could use this.

Can it be used or is hickory a better bet?

thanks guys. :confused:
 
I think it depends on the grain. If you can see the end of the grain anywhere on the rod it could break there and stick through your hand. Ouch!

HD
 
Oak has a tendency to split and slinter out more than hickory. Most oak has a very open irregular grain that won't work very well. I would go with hickory. I've been buying mine thru TOW and most seems to be very good for a reasonable price.
 
Having a few Hickory blanks around can help you become a better teacher.
You know:
"...
Reading and writing and 'rithmetic
Taught to the tune of a Hickory Stick..."
:rotf: :grin:

zonie :)
 
im with ya

I got most of my lessons via peach tree limb. talk about school of hard knocks.
 
Hickory is the wood of choice around here for dowels as well. A bit more flex I think without breaking. They don't cost much more at all either.
 
I use oak ram rods all the time.

I'm not going to the expense of ordering them and can keep a supply of oak on hand for a few dollars.

At the range I use a 7/16ths range rod in my 54 cal and it shoves that ball down with ease. Don't even use a metal tip. Bare wood!

The rod kept in the ferrules is more for show than use, as most everyone's shooting is done at the range.

That's my opinion.
 
Never Ever, use a wood dowel for a ram rod. Sooner or later ouch! Go cut a sappling the proper length. Check the grain in a dowel. (similar rules apply to the grip area in a carved stock). The dowels are cut from big wood with the grain running mostly in the right direction. However some grain usualy presents itself at 30-40 degrees from perp. to the length. When they break it is along the grain and it will result in a pointy stick through your hand or wrist. A sapling will be close to the same diameter that you need and the grain is all parrallel to the length. Turn it or sand it.
 
Ditto on the split.

Familiarity with woodworking in general and "old" ways in particular will teach you much. Split, or "riven," follows the grain. Of course you would want to work with straight grain to begin with. After following grain for split(s), take care in the rounding process to maintain grain integrity.

Perhaps one of the best homemade ways that I know of was taught to me a long long time ago, and it a bit tedious to describe in words, but is almost instantaneously grasped when you are shown instead of told, and instead of wasting words here I would direct you to the old(er) Roy Underhill book (first one), "The Woodwright's Shop," I found this same process described later on in that book in the "Rakes" chapter, where he shows the process for making the bows for the rakes. It's usually to be found in the library, or on auction sites as both new and used, and it won't set you back much in money but it may help propel you forward in understanding. Not the best resource but it is the best pictoral for what I'm trying to describe. Your hands will thank you.
 
Ah, Roy Underhill. Now there is a man who does things in the old Traditional way if ever there was one.

As I recall, I've seen him reducing smaller stock by pulling it thru smaller and smaller holes letting the woods grain determine what is removed and what is not. That way, there is absolutly no grain runout in the finished rod.
It might have a slight bend to it here and there, but you can be sure it will never break if it is properly used as a ramrod or dowel.

IMO, a slight bend isn't necessarly bad for a ramrod. It tends to hole the rod in the thimbols during recoil.

I sure wish they would bring back his television shows. Simply amazing watching him work wood with "outdated" hand tools and end up with things that fit together like a glove.

zonie :)
 
I sure wish they would bring back his television shows. Simply amazing watching him work wood with "outdated" hand tools and end up with things that fit together like a glove.

zonie :)[/quote]
____________________________________________

Resurrecting Roy is a great idea. :thumbsup:
Some may recall that we locked on to this prospect a while back. It was spearheaded by Musketman, who actually located and made contact with Roy concerning our interest and support. I suppose its in the archives.
Longshot
 
You can buy nice hickory blanks for about $1.50 a piece. There is a gunmaker on another discussion board that is currently soliciting orders for a bulk order right now.

If interested, PM me and I'll send you a link. I have no vested interest, just trying to help. Minimum order is a dozen, but you can combine sizes.
 
Yes sir, I agree. In fact, most Saturday mornings around here on the local PBS channel, his old show is on, and some of the episodes are actually less than a year or two old. He has aged gracefully.

I learned woodworking that same way from my mother's grandfather, he died back in the mid 1970's at the age of 96, I was 20. He was a German immigrant, a carpenter by trade, made all of his own tools and tool chest as part of his transition from apprentice-journeyman-master process. Wonderful planes, and irons, etc. that he made himself, chisels, gouges, guages, some tools I've never been able to identify, along with one crosscut saw and one ripsaw that he made himself, among many other manufactured saws... still at my father's house, sadly in the basement and turning to rust in the big red toolchest that he made. I have many times tried to get my paws on the whole kit and kaboodle or even one piece at a time, even offered to pay more than they would be worth for him to hang onto, but I'm told that they have more sentimental value just sitting there than money could ever buy...

Anyways, when I first saw Roy sometime around 1988 or so, it was like meeting a long lost cousin, neither of us having a German surname. Love the guy, his show, his books... except the part about boat and kyack making! Way off on those, but who's to fault the guy? Not me.

Anyhow, yes, that is the exact method to which I was referring, drawing the riven splits through progressively smaller holes. Moisture content is a critical factor. Too much or too little and things don't turn out very pretty at all with interlocking grain such as hickory and elm.

Speaking of which, there's another strong and tough wood, less likely to break -- elm. I like red elm (a.k.a. Rock Elm, Slippery Elm) better than white. But hickory is still to be preferred, IMO.
 
Longshot47 said:
I sure wish they would bring back his television shows. Simply amazing watching him work wood with "outdated" hand tools and end up with things that fit together like a glove.

zonie :)
____________________________________________

Resurrecting Roy is a great idea. :thumbsup:
Some may recall that we locked on to this prospect a while back. It was spearheaded by Musketman, who actually located and made contact with Roy concerning our interest and support. I suppose its in the archives.
Longshot

Here is that thread Longshot47 spoke of...

What would you like to see?
 
I have been a big fan of Roys for many years. It was his influence that got me started with old hand tools. I met him once down in Williamsburg VA, where he was building an outbuilding using all motise and tenon joints for the beams. What a craftsman and all around nice guy. I wish he was still on TV around here. :hatsoff:
 
He is on our local PBS channel on saturdays. I just wish that he would show more of the "how-to" rather than all the jumping around. I would really see enjoy seeing many of his projects from start to finish.......
 
if you are interested in splitting out hickory for ramrods and working them down to final form you can come to the workshop held on sunday morning at the spring shoot at friendsip in june. i set up in the primitive side usually along the creek near the horner's cabin. you can watch the demo., prepair your own blank, and learn any of several methods of reducing to final form. or yo can take a rough split blank home with you to do up later.

by the way, while reading the above comments i noticed two things that deserve comment. 1)when splitting green splints you cannot have the wood too wet(actually, the wetter the better--cut the tree and split it out while it is "still bleeding" if you like). 2)hickory does not have interlocking grain.

roy is a kick to see. actually, there are a few of us oldtimers left who still work green wood the old and--in this case and many others--the best way.

take care, daniel
 

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