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Odd Observations Using Olde E

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rodwha

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I had broken in my rifle and was ready to begin working on an accurate load. I broke my rifle in using the Pyrodex (P/RS) that I strongly disliked as the fouling was very sticky.

I've bought a bit of 3F Olde Eynsford as it's relatively inexpensive yet energetic. From what I've read Swiss and Olde E don't leave nearly as much fouling as the other BP's or Pyrodex, but I was having serious issues loading and wiping after 3 shots. I had to hammer home some of the PRB's and hammer the range rod out after it's initial swab.

Part of this is likely due to a slightly larger diameter jag, and the 0.001" thicker patches. But it still wasn't quite that difficult the last time out, though I didn't shoot it as many times as I typically do as my friend was ready to go. And maybe also the lube wasn't quite as wet.

I was moving in increments of 10 grns as I figured I could more quickly weed out what wasn't good and move back to where the groups were best to try by 5 grns. But I was getting very random groups, and I'm wondering how much had to do with a dirty bore and even the hammered RB's.

60 grns, which is where I began, was obviously not the ticket, but I was back and forth on the 70 and 80 grn charges.

I'm wondering about using Olde E and wiping every shot or trying T7 instead.

I also REALLY need to go get glasses.
 
The wiping and fouling thing has to do with your lube and how you use it.
Each powder is going to act a little differently to the lube and how much or little each shooter uses.
I follow Dutch and his process which includes wiping between shot's.

There are many ways, each guy just has to find a procedure that works for him.
 
My lubed patches have been in a ziplock bag for some time and don't seem as oily as they usually are.

I've only ever used grape seed oil as it's the only cheap oil we have that SWMBO will allow me to use. I've thought about grabbing some cheap olive oil while at the grocery store just to try some, as well as trying Ballistol/water.
 
Good luck finding "CHEAP" OLIVE OIL? The cheapest I ever saw was not quite $10.00.

Steve
 
You will find that BP fouling reacts differently with different lubes. I use TOTW mink oil for hunting. While it may not produce the BEST accuracy on the target range, I can shoot numerous shots without wiping the bore while shooting Goex or my old lot of KIK.

Swiss produces more velocity than Goex, but makes a drier fouling.

Experiment with lubes and see what works for your powder in your rifle in your environment. Oilve oil and beeswax may work, vegetable shortening may work, mink oil....or you may have to continue to wipe between shots.

My use of Swiss is mostly in my revolver.
 
I use the cheap Wally World brand of Olive oil. It's about 3.50 for 17 oz. Works as good as any. :) Larry
 
larger diameter jag, and the 0.001" thicker patches

Your perceived issues have nothing to do with powder. It is your loading technique. The patch should never wrap around the jag. And, if the jag is too large, chuck it up in a drill and carefully reduce the diameter.
 
"The patch should never wrap around the jag."

I'm not sure I follow, though I was vague in my description.

When I mentioned the jag issue I mean when swabbing.

The thicker patches are my shooting patches, and these wrap around the ball all the way. IIRC I cut them to 1.25" wide square, which was slightly smaller than what was suggested.

Another thing I had noticed was that with Pyrodex I ran a moist patch, flipped it, and then did the same with alcohol, and I was good with no perceived difference throughout my session.

But with Olde E it's as though it wasn't as easily getting the majority of the fouling, like it was slowly building up.

I eventually began running 2 moist patches, but had to call it quits if I wanted dinner, but it didn't seem to help enough.

My range rod has a built in jag which is slightly thicker than the jag I use on the rod for my rifle, which I usually use, but because I was having sticking issues I switched to my range rod so that I could add the T handle.

I had considered trying to sand the jag down just a bit yesterday.
 
"The patch should never wrap around the jag."

I'm not sure I follow, though I was vague in my description.

When I mentioned the jag issue I mean when swabbing.

Yes, and my response was incomplete also. I should have specified when loading.

However, if jag too large when swabbing, then it still needs to be reduced in size.
 
"cheap" olive oil refers to that which comes from heating and repressing after the "virgin olive oil" has been pressed. The virgin oil has more water in it. Better for salads but not for shooting. :idunno:
 
One thing to keep in mind with the Eynsford powder it's a quick powder, so instead of going up in powder charge you may need to drop a bit to get the velocity and accuracy you were getting before.
The fouling thing sounds like lube problems.
 
What yo want is "Extra Virgin, First Cold Pressing". Anything else may have extra water or salt or both. "Extra Virgin" is what comes to the top of the vats after the whole olive is ground and pressed. Oddly, every country around the Mediterranean makes it's own, each claims theirs is best and they have tasting contests just like wine with about as many different flavors. Saying a particular olive oil is "best" can start as big a fight as making the same comment about a BBQ joint or chili recipe here in Texas! :haha: You can get more or less expensive olive oil, just make sure it's labeled "Extra Virgin" if you want real 'sweet oil'. What you don't use for you gun, put on your food! The stuff is one of the very best anti-oxidant, cholesterol lowering, artery plaque dissolving super foods out there.
 
I'm with Rifleman on this one. The powder isn't the problem though make sure the bore is completely clear of the sub fouling. I use Hoppes #9 BP Lube and rarely have to swab as loading stays after dozens of shots. And, yes, those patches and the oversize jag are going to be tight.
 
"Saying a particular olive oil is "best" can start as big a fight as making the same comment about a BBQ joint or chili recipe here in Texas!"

Boy do I know that one's true!

SWMBO and I argue over BBQ all the time! I've been down here in Texas for 26 years and know this to be good (used to go to Lockhardt but often go to Luling) BBQ.

SWMBO is from Kanas City! I know, I know”¦ I should put her out for such blasphemy, but I have eaten some of their BBQ while visiting her folks, and I must admit, however different, it's also good in another non Texan way.

But we still argue over which is better.
 
I certainly think lube was a part of the problem as I don't think they were as "wet" as usual as it's been several (3?) months since I made it to the range last. But it was also a bit of adding patch material to what i had as they seemed a little too wet last time.
 
Yea, I don't see how it would be the powder either as it seems to defy what I've read of other's experiences. It seems much more likely to be several variables rather than the powder. I certainly need to get back out with a jag that's not quite as wide and more lube on my patches, as well as the consideration of cleaning more often once problems seem to become noticed.
 
When I am on a trailwalk or punching paper I use a liquid lube, (spit is excellent) and I can literally shoot all day long and never have to wipe between shots, period, it is a water based lube though.

This is the lube I use.

For hunting you'll want an oil or grease, I have sourced an actual mink oil that is used in the making of soap that I am wanting to try out as well as several commercial and non commercial grease type lubes, so many projects yet so little time.
 
Larry.....Must be cheaper down in the hills, cause it's twice that up North! They must be ripping us off, cause it (Wallyworld) olive oil is $8.00 up here! Go figure!!!!!!

Steve
 
Got a bottle in the last few days. It's the store brand extra virgin and was up a bit to 3.84. You know how it is turn your head and the price goes up. :) I use it for patch lube and to lower cholesterol. Kind of double duty. Larry
 

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