I've used it and it works. It's some kind of reaction that makes it dry very quickly. I will say it doesn't work as well with thinned Tried&True oil but it does work.
Oil finish on a stock.....
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I have used Daly's Seafin Teak Oil on three longrifles and two shotgun stocks. It is excellent since it is a marine product. SeaFin Teak Oil : DALY'S : Paint and Decorating / Wood Finishes
yes he was the head torturer during the inquisition. when that guy said what you had to do to a stock using BLO that is why I said that lolYes. I believe it was the 11th commandment: "Thou shalt use boiled linseed oil on all traditional gun stocks. Thou shalt violate this commandment only if thou wisheth to be inquisitioned." The name rang a bell, but I ended up having to Google.
DuncNZ
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I was giving my dogs their nightly Flax seed oil capsule , good for coats etc . When the penny dropped and I realised what I was giving them was very refined and additive free linseed oil . I have since started using the oil to carry out my weekly hand rub of my gunstocks . It works perfectly and gives a nice soft sheen . One capsule will do 2 long rifles .
This is my rifle, this is my gun, etc, etc, ad infinitum.I have had great results with Oil of Olay
Seriously, for thinning any oil based product I like naptha the best. The idea came from Roy Dunlap in his book Gunsmithing. It's odorless and has the right drying time for what we do.
Your Flax seed oil is the same as refined linseed oil used by artist as it is additive free and is not sticky like raw linsed. No wonder you are having good results. Stay with it, but add about 20% Terabine(Drying Agent) for the last 2 or 3 coats. O.D.
I use naphtha when thinning and spaying Tru-Oil and it works well but as to being ”ordorless”…well not to my nose its not.
Having worked with wood finishes all my adult life the only odorless solvent I have used is water and I have seen exceptions to that statement.
I guess I meant relatively odorless. I doesn't stink as much as other solvents but you're right, it smells a little.
It's made from the sweat of Spanish bullfightersI have had great results with Oil of Olay
DuncNZ
54 Cal.
My stocks have finished being oiled years ago .I just get one out of my safe and give it a rub down with a finger tip of linseed oil while sitting watching TV and burnish the wood with the palm of my hand , this continues to build a great finish with a soft glow and makes it reasonably water resistant . I googled Terabine and got a lot of stuff about toenail fungus , which wasn't what I was looking for but may come in use someday .
If it is the same as Artist grade linseed oil it will be easier to find in bottled form in either the pharmacy or supermarket , than an artists supply store which are few and far between
Beautiful
LIVINtheLIFE
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Nothing fancy but an example of the BC Genuine Oil I mentioned earlier. I have a TC Hawken that had a few dents and scratches i wanted to clean up. I sanded with 220, 600, 800 then 1000 along the grain to get rid of the factory finish and smooth out. Then proceeded to use a painting swab to apply the oil and rub in by hand. Hang to dry for ~18hrs then repeat. 3 coats total. Gives a nice satin finish and does have some kind of hardener in it, I imagine you could use a wax with it too afterwards if wanted. Like said not fancy by any means, but functional.
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If I have a rifle that is older and I want to add some oil to the stock - the "once a year for the rest of it's life". Is there a difference in boiled linseed oils? For instance, I know painters often use highly refined linseed oil for painting. Is that siutable for a very light oiling? I'm not interested in refinishing a stock, just giving it a little love...
You could, I would thin it with turpentine at least 50% or more.
With a linseed oil finish it’s never done. After a few months it is as water resistant as modern finishes, and it’s deep in the wood. When bumped or scratched the oil can well be 1/16 in into the wood.
However, in rain or humid weather it gets sticky, and needs to be buffed out and recoiled in between.
Soak it down, leave sit a week or more, buff, then THIN coat once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then when ever you clean it and at least every few months from now on ad Infinitem.
Wax helps a lot, but linseed is never done.
This is why, as much as the dyed in the capote stitch counters and traditionalist love it, it is sant used in the old days.
However, in rain or humid weather it gets sticky, and needs to be buffed out and recoiled in between.
Soak it down, leave sit a week or more, buff, then THIN coat once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then when ever you clean it and at least every few months from now on ad Infinitem.
Wax helps a lot, but linseed is never done.
This is why, as much as the dyed in the capote stitch counters and traditionalist love it, it is sant used in the old days.
I've done quite a few stocks in my day. I use boiled linseed oil on walnut after sanding to 400 grit.
I rub it in every day and wipe it off with paper towels after a half hour. Keep applying until it no longer absorbs. Then the once a week thing
until it looks good.
On maple or beech I use tru-oil up to about 15 coats, buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats. When I'm happy with it, after the last coat I rub it out with rottenstone and oil. They look great.
I rub it in every day and wipe it off with paper towels after a half hour. Keep applying until it no longer absorbs. Then the once a week thing
until it looks good.
On maple or beech I use tru-oil up to about 15 coats, buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats. When I'm happy with it, after the last coat I rub it out with rottenstone and oil. They look great.
I put this on my new Lyman Great Plains rifle.
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Do you fellows usually use a filler to fill the grain on walnut stocks before applying the linseed oil?
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