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- Thread starter Abarnes
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Well, it was pretty, at least. And no blood stains. That's good.
bummer.. lots of work down the drain. 
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that will buff right out!
Lordy! what was the proof charge?
Lordy! what was the proof charge?
ohio ramrod
75 Cal.
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Strange, since American Elm was often used for cannon carriages.
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Two words - duct tape.
What are the details of the proofing? Powder and shot loads, did you use a lanyard? is the barrel stable? Are YOU ok?
64Springer
75 Cal.
2000 gr slug with 570gr. FFFGthe barrel held up perfect it just did a number on my stock
64Springer
75 Cal.
You had to be trying to blow that thing up.
I can't think of a single proofing scenario where that combination of powder and ball would be used to proof a gun barrel. Lots of lead and a little powder or lots of powder and a little lead.
And stocks weren't proofed. Barrels, all by their lonesome, were stress tested.
All that aside, I would Titebond III the stock. It will be stronger than when you started.
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4 1/2 ounces of lead with 570 grains of powder.
I think you're lucky it broke. Might give you some time to think this over. You cannot be real in wanting to shoulder this cannon?
I think you're lucky it broke. Might give you some time to think this over. You cannot be real in wanting to shoulder this cannon?
64Springer
75 Cal.
That's 8.14 45-70 powder loads and 4.9 projectiles.
I can see that barrel on a carriage.
Not a stock cut to normal dimensions.
Coolhand
Ozark Mt. Daredevil
That is a lot of powder!
Sean E Bug
32 cal. or less
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lucky that is a clean break. should make repairing it easier. I would use either an epoxy or wood glue. both will be stronger than the wood is properly done.
I can only think of two barrel makers that make 4 bore barrels. Both make very high quality barrels and I would not worry about any barrel problems from them. 4 bore is a low pressure gun. Instead of a proof load the way to go is to start off with light loads and measure the barrel at the breech with a micrometer after each shot. Look for any changes as the load increases.
2000 grain slug with 570 grains of 3F is not a realistic load. I shoot mine with a round ball and 450 grains of 1F or 400 grains of 2F. Rich44 has a point. Are you ready for a gun like this? The loads I am using have about 340 ft/lbs of recoil energy. That is more than triple what you get from a 505 Gibbs. If you don't have a lot of experience shooting the larger dangerous game type of rifles, a 4 bore will injure you. My brother shot my 4 bore with a 300 grain powder charge. That is a light load. It took a year for his shoulder to heal.
If you would have fired that gun from the shoulder even with a normal load it would not have gone well. A 4 bore needs to be designed entirely around managing the recoil. The stock design you have is going to increase the felt recoil. And that recoil pad is a really bad idea! Even the best recoil pad is not going to be of any help on a 4 bore. You need a wide metal butt plate with rounded edges. Brown Bess butt plate works well.
I would start over with carving a new stock. Go with European walnut or maple. You were 70 feet back and pulled trigger with a string. So I would assume that the gun was secured somehow. That is why it broke. If that is the case then even a standard load would have broken it no matter what kind of wood it was. 4 bore will shatter the stock every time if it is not allowed to move.
2000 grain slug with 570 grains of 3F is not a realistic load. I shoot mine with a round ball and 450 grains of 1F or 400 grains of 2F. Rich44 has a point. Are you ready for a gun like this? The loads I am using have about 340 ft/lbs of recoil energy. That is more than triple what you get from a 505 Gibbs. If you don't have a lot of experience shooting the larger dangerous game type of rifles, a 4 bore will injure you. My brother shot my 4 bore with a 300 grain powder charge. That is a light load. It took a year for his shoulder to heal.
If you would have fired that gun from the shoulder even with a normal load it would not have gone well. A 4 bore needs to be designed entirely around managing the recoil. The stock design you have is going to increase the felt recoil. And that recoil pad is a really bad idea! Even the best recoil pad is not going to be of any help on a 4 bore. You need a wide metal butt plate with rounded edges. Brown Bess butt plate works well.
I would start over with carving a new stock. Go with European walnut or maple. You were 70 feet back and pulled trigger with a string. So I would assume that the gun was secured somehow. That is why it broke. If that is the case then even a standard load would have broken it no matter what kind of wood it was. 4 bore will shatter the stock every time if it is not allowed to move.
Ya I made my own barrel out of 4130 chromoly and it held up great I had it tied between four fence posts so the bend of the posts would absorb the recoil I just think my stock was not strong enough wood. Honestly the stock was not my worry point I am just glad I wasn't holding it. I planned on using a 1300 gr projectile and starting out with 250 gr. FFG and go up from there. We will have to see where stock number two gets us.
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