Opinions on a good solution for a better flintlock shotgun trigger pull

[Larry (Omaha)]

In checking a double 12 guage flintlock for proper function, I noticed the right L&R lock was a little on the heavy side for trigger pull. (strickly going by trigger feel, no trigger pull guage) Left lock was good. Here is a photo of the tumbler showing the sear in the full **** position.
Since the tumbler has a fly, I am considering trimming the over depth of the full **** notch. My thoughts are to first trim the full **** notch so it is a deep at the sear toe thickness, & will be flush with the outside curve of the tumbler. Check to see it that helps. I know it will shorten trigger travel, but not sure if it will decrease trigger pull weight. When I remove the tumbler I will inspect the half **** notch to make sure it is parallel to the sear toe and polished. If the aforementioned fails I intend to thin the sear spring a tad. The sear spring takes about 3.5lbs of energy to trip the sear.
Comments would be appreciated.
Larry

 

[deerstalkert]

it appears to me that the lock plate is bent into the sear arm. i would be leery of shortening the full **** notch, i don't think it would do anything to lighten the trigger pull.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I'd be checking around in that lock mortise first to see if anything is binding on wood. If all is good there you need to change the angle of the full cocktail notch. Is it hard to trip out side of the stock?

edit. I see spell check can't handle the word ****.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

it appears to me that the lock plate is bent into the sear arm. i would be leery of shortening the full **** notch, i don't think it would do anything to lighten the trigger pull.

Your eyeballs see what I see in the posted #1pic, but in reality the plate is good in my opion. At 11" you can see a slight defection from 180 deg.
Good point to be aware of.
Thanks
Larry

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I'd be checking around in that lock mortise first to see if anything is binding on wood. If all is good there you need to change the angle of the full cocktail notch. Is it hard to trip out side of the stock?

Thanks for the reminder, but the lock works the same out of the stock. It is shootable, just not to my liking. I will be checking the sear toe to full **** notch fit and diamand stone as needed.

Larry

 

[HSmithTX]

Expanding on what Mike said: Easy way to see if your full **** notch is at the right angle is to see if the tumbler is moving as the sear is released, if the tumbler moves either direction as the sear releases the angle is wrong. If it moves to the cocking direction it can make the trigger pull a lot heavier than it needs to be and most do as this is a captive condition for the sear and accidental sear release is less likely to nearly impossible, if it moves toward the firing direction at all it's very likely unsafe and should be fixed before loading. Accidental sear release in this condition is much more likely. Once the angle is correct it's pretty straighforward to get a good trigger pull.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

What TX said

 

[NorthFork]

it appears to me that the lock plate is bent into the sear arm. i would be leery of shortening the full **** notch, i don't think it would do anything to lighten the trigger pull.
View attachment 235683

I agree 100%. Unless it's some photographic anomaly, The rear of the lock plate HAS to be rubbing on the sear arm.

 

[NorthFork]

Your eyeballs see what I see in the posted #1pic, but in reality the plate is good in my opion. At 11" you can see a slight defection from 180 deg.
Good point to be aware of.
Thanks
Larry
View attachment 235758

Unless I'm not seeing things right, it looks like your lock plate is warped? Leading to what @deerstalkert and I see. Maybe I'm wrong?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Unless I'm not seeing things right, it looks like your lock plate is warped? Leading to what @deerstalkert and I see. Maybe I'm wrong?

Respectfully don't you believe the staight edge? (9:01am)
I think this is the culprit, and the full **** notch needs a little stoning
Larry

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Remove the main spring. Function the lock manually and observe for points of contact. Polish where necessary. Grind the sear spring to reduce trigger pull.

PS - Perhaps its the high magnification but these components look a bit rough.

 

[NorthFork]

@Larry (Omaha)

I saw both of your pics.

Do you have wear marks on the lock plate from the sear? If not disregard my thoughts on the lock plate. But @Tom A Hawk had a good point, the lock parts do look very rough.

Please look closely at the tail of the lock plate. According to your first pic, from what I see, the sear is pressing on the plate excessively. I saw your straight edge pic and it looks good but that first pic.....

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

@Larry (Omaha)

I saw both of your pics.

Do you have wear marks on the lock plate from the sear? If not disregard my thoughts on the lock plate. But @Tom A Hawk had a good point, the lock parts do look very rough.

Please look closely at the tail of the lock plate. According to your first pic, from what I see, the sear is pressing on the plate excessively. I saw your straight edge pic and it looks good but that first pic.....

There was one spot where the sear right angles from the side plate about 1/8" in diameter. I took a file and smoothed it out. I don't think it had any significance to the hard trigger pull.
Thanks
Larry

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Remove the main spring. Function the lock manually and observe for points of contact. Polish where necessary. Grind the sear spring to reduce trigger pull.

PS - Perhaps its the high magnification but these components look a bit rough.

The photo did not turn out very well. Yes, what you see is not good. One of the poorest sear toes I have seen. It will get stoned.
Thanks
Larry

 

[waksupi]

Respectfully don't you believe the staight edge? (9:01am)
I think this is the culprit, and the full **** notch needs a little stoning
Larry



View attachment 235872

That definitely need a proper blueprinting. From the looks of the lock, someone who knows what they are doing would have 6-8 hours into smoothing the internals properly, being careful to not change any angles.

 

[#BPBReloadingFFL]

Bent , and all that brown Krap inside the works. That sear looks like the teeth on a 16 year old Chihuahua!

 

[2 shots]

S - Perhaps its the high magnification but these components look a bit rough.

if not mentioned is the lock plate rusty? looks like it is, in pic.

 

[Sam squanch]

It will get stoned.

Did it get stoned?