Over-stitch Wheel or Stitch Chisel?

[fleener]

Gus

No problem here.

I have always cut my straps the same way that you did yours. I was in the store one day and the lady talked me into buying one. I used it for cutting the straps on this bench I made for my nephew's wedding
http://imgur.com/toBwKxS

It worked great, cut straps like they were butter. It worked much better than I could of imagined.

Fleener

 

[Paul R]

Gus,
I started using a 48" straight edge when cutting belts, but found that even using a brand new utility knife blade, it was still difficult to get consistent, uniform edges. I solved that problem when I switched to using a rotary cutter. There were no more problems keeping the leather from shifting while cutting & getting 100% cut through on a single pass, even on heavy belt leathers.
Paul

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I don't own a plough or fancy draw tool. I do have the wooden Tandy one and it works ok.
Mostly I use a long straight edge and a scribe then cut straps with the round knife freehand using the scribed mark as my guide. Cut one over 80" like that last night from some 10oz bovine. Turned out pretty good. Two cuts so the old Rose knife was pretty sharp.

 

[Artificer]

That was a lot of work you did on that strap covered bench. I hope it was well appreciated, as it should be.

Gus

 

[fleener]

They do appreciate the bench. This is the second one I have made, it is kinda fun cutting 8 mortise and tenon joints and getting it all glued up and square.

I fell in love with the design when I saw one for sell, but the price was $1,600.

Fleener

 

[BrownBear]

I do have the wooden Tandy one and it works ok. Mostly I use a long straight edge and a scribe then cut straps with the round knife freehand using the scribed mark as my guide.

Same here. Never made peace with that little wooden jobbydue.

 

[crockett]

I'll throw out a few thoughts. If the bag is going to be stitched inside out, so that the stitches end up inside the bag, probably doesn't matter that much how you do it. The over stitch wheel creates a very modern, evenly spaced stitching and sometimes that's what you want however sometimes a less than perfect stitch spacing looks more rustic.
An awl more or less pushes aside the leather to create a hole. Don't use a "paper punch" that actually punches out plugs of leather. The chisels will cut the leather but they are really used for lace, not thread.
Linen thread is pc and stronger than cotton and you can buy 100% linen thread at Joann Fabric for $2 or so. Get off white or natural.
Here's a good trick: if you use an awl the holes will want to close back up. In soft leathers the holes can disappear. I use tiny brads and as soon as I make a hole in both sides of the leather I'll insert the brad. You end up with a pretty weird looking project but after all the holes are made and filled with brads I'll start the stitches, pulling out a brad at a time and immediately running the needle into the hole. I use a very long thread with a needle on both ends and start with the middle of the thread in the first hole and then on the next hole a needle goes through that from either side- like lacing up a pair of shoes. At the end of the seam don't knot the thread, just back stitch 3 holes and it will hold. On a knife sheath I'll back stitch one thread end three holes and the other 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 holes so the cut off ends are both on the back side of the sheath.
So, get some linen thread, an awl, a small pack of brads, and a couple of heavy needles. The shoe lace method wears the thread so you might want to get some beeswax and rub that over the thread from time to time. If the leather is thick, maybe a pair of pliers to pull a needle through a tight hole.
When you get into the multiple layers of leather, such as a sheath with a welt, you might want to glue the seam to hold everything in place and then stitch it.

 

[BrownBear]

The chisels will cut the leather but they are really used for lace, not thread.

True for the chunky clunky lace chisels with blunt points sold by Tandy. Not true for their Pro chisels or the fine English chisels. Those both have fine points just like so many awls.

I don't use them for everything, maybe not even half the time. But they're sure dandy when you want long runs of perfectly aligned and perfectly straight stitches.

 

[Rifleman1776]

At the end of the seam don't knot the thread, just back stitch 3 holes and it will hold.

Never had luck with that. Seems like as soon as I look away the untied ends start coming apart. I tie. If using artificial (which I don't anymore) sinew, I'll burn the ends to keep from untying.

 

[BrownBear]

There's "trick" that I've found is important for making the back stitches work right:

Your holes in the leather should be as small as possible while still allowing room for the thread to pass. I'm being sacrilegious for some folks I'm sure, but I want them tight enough that I use pliers to pull the needles through the back stitches. Never any slips doing it that way.

 

[Artificer]

On the subject of using artificial sinew, I used a lot of it in the 70’s when doing “Mountain Man” and especially after viewing some original, over a century old NA Bows that were wrapped in real sinew. The artificial stuff looked so similar it was remarkable. Also, real sinew was not available back then. When I used the artificial sinew, I also found I had to knot the ends of stitching most of the time. However, I too stopped using it in the late 70’s as it is not authentic and in the case of soft leathers, it may actually saw through the leather as you tighten the stitches.

When using waxed linen thread, I have found if the leather is soft, it may also not hold without knotting the end. It may also not hold if one inadvertently opens up the last hole too much or if one does not go between the threads of the last stitch. This may also be caused by using an awl that is too large for the needles and thread used or just the needles too large. Trained leather workers are better at knowing what size awl to use with what size needles and thread.

Some time ago before his too early passing, LaBonte aka Chuck Burrows passed along this tip on what needles to use with what size thread:

Advice from “LaBonte” or Chuck Burrows on Harness needles for hand sewing leather:

“I like the John James or Osborne brands best.
3 cord I use a #2 needle
4 cord #1 needle
5 cord a #0 needle.
A little trick - take a larger needle such as a 00 and mount in a handle to use a fid to open up holes if need be when back stitching.”

Still, if I run into a case where I can’t figure out why the last thread won’t stay by just trimming it off, I have put a new thread through two holes and tied it off. Bottom line, if it won’t hold, I just fix it so it will.

Gus

 

[Black Hand]

I'm being sacrilegious for some folks I'm sure, but I want them tight enough that I use pliers to pull the needles through the back stitches.

I routinely use a set of round-nosed jewelers pliers when I sew. My back-stitches don't come loose either...

 

[tenngun]

I have hemostats picked up at my medical supply-uniform shop. You may also see them in what we used to call head shops I don't know what they all them now, but they were sold as roach clips. Now, dose any one use a thimble? I make a fake one since I have not found one to fit, when cloth sewing.

 

[Black Hand]

I use the round-nose pliers because the jaws are smooth and won't scratch or score the needle (which could result in the needle breaking).

 

[BrownBear]

Now, dose any one use a thimble? I make a fake one since I have not found one to fit, when cloth sewing.

I don't, mostly because I never found one that came close to fitting these stubs I call fingers. Can you fill us in on how you made yours? Thanks!

 

[Black Hand]

Now, dose any one use a thimble? I make a fake one since I have not found one to fit, when cloth sewing.

I've used white athletic tape when sewing heavy leather (keeps the tread from cutting my little fingers as I snug the stitches). When sewing cloth, I've not really needed a thimble as the pliers do the job.

 

[tenngun]

I cut a piece of leather then tape it with white 'silk'tape to my #2 finger on right hand. I can see for a couple hours before the tape wears through,much better then hole in finger.

 

[Jumpshot]

I use the round-nose pliers because the jaws are smooth and won't scratch or score the needle (which could result in the needle breaking).

How about taking an old pair of regular pliers and gluing two pieces of leather to the insides of the jaws, just for this purpose? Or would the leather not offer enough grip on the needles to pull them through?

Just kicking some ideas around...

 

[Black Hand]

The leather wears and compresses while the nose of regular pliers is bulky. The round-nose pliers are inexpensive and worth the investment.

 

[BrownBear]

I cut a piece of leather then tape it with white 'silk'tape to my #2 finger on right hand. I can see for a couple hours before the tape wears through,much better then hole in finger.

Sounds like a simple solution. I've considered cutting a finger off one of my old welding gloves, but it hasn't made my"round-to-it" list yet.