Pan powder

[roundball]

Besides, like I said, I have almost 4 pounds of FFFFg!

4F is all I've ever used...works perfectly year round at the range and for hunting...just refresh it periodically to avoid any humidity issues when out hunting...never had a misfire yet and I actually went hunting and shot a buck in the rain during 2008...its just not a problem.

I see a lot of comments about only using one horn because it "makes things easier"...not sure I understand that given the two separate acts of unstopping a horn, charging the main, putting the plug back in, finish the loading, then grab the horn, pull the plug, prime the pan, then put the plug back in.

By contrast, I lift an antler primer out of a shirt pocket, depress the plunger in the pan, drop the primer back in my pocket.

Doesn't get any simpler or faster than that.

And "carrying two powders" is a non-issue...I fill a pan primer with 4F at the beginning of the season and forget about it.

 

[tundrawolf]

i have a 50 flintlock pistol ive never fired.what powder should i use for it ,and how many grains ?walmart has pyrodex and some hogdon in 2f for about 19.a jug is this worth buying ?

 

[roundball]

i have a 50 flintlock pistol ive never fired.what powder should i use for it ,and how many grains ?walmart has pyrodex and some hogdon in 2f for about 19.a jug is this worth buying ?

Flintlock ignitilon does best with real blackpowder...the little pan flash is usually not strong enough to ignite the BP subs inside the bore.
If I had a Flintlock pistol, had no blackpowder and no other need for blackpowder other than the pistol, I probably wouldn't buy 4F and 3F...I'd buy a can of Goex 3F...then I'd fill a 35mm film canister half full of 3F, drop in a lead ball, hold the lid on tightly and shake it 10-15 seconds to crush up the 3F smaller so it was more like 4F...its all the same powder.

 

[Shane Carter]

3F for me, one horn to carry.

 

[Dphar]

I have used FFFF for 40+ years. The first problem I have with coarser powder is ignition speed. FFFF is easier to light, the pan will hold a larger weight of powder and has a faster flame spread than the coarser powders. Which I have tried periodically since I started reading threads like this. More heat sooner, better ignition. Its also a LOT easier to work through the vent when you load without powder. I can clear a powderless load in less than a minute with FFFF and a grass stem or twig to coax it along though the vent. FF won't do this unless the vent is excessively large, FFF is a PITA too.
The human "timing system" is slow enough that significant differences in ignition speed can go unnoticed. For example in actual timing FF takes almost twice as long to light as Swiss Null B .0393 to .0697. This is just the time to get a flash from the powder.
http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/priming-powder-timing.php
Just for reference the lock time of a Remington 700 is .003 +- and .0016 +- if "speed locked" and shooters know that this can give better accuracy. So look at the differences in FFFF and FF in that light because that's what its all about.
Dan

 

[paulvallandigham]

Dan: You are absolutely correct. In any kind of target shooting event, using 4Fg is the ONLY sane decision to make. Of course, some people would hold that for target shooting, you need anything Better than a Flintlock for precision shooting in the first place! :rotf: :hmm: :surrender: :idunno:

However, for hunters and plinkers( casual shooting) or for shooting close range targets off-hand, like bang plates, The slower time for using FFFg for priming your gun is Okay. In inclimate hunting conditions, where rain, fog, mist, drizzle, and sleet are the norm, choosing the slightly slower FFFg in your pan just makes better sense.

No, BP does not draw moisture from the air. only BP residue does that. If you clean your pan thoroughly and properly, moisture in the priming powder should not be a problem.

However, I hope we both know that life is not always that kind. Pans don't always seal well, pans don't always remain closed, and even when the pans and powder remain dry, moisture condensing, or getting, on the hammer, and flint, can also cause a misfire by dousing those wonderful sparks you get off your frizzen before they can reach the pan. Using the coarser powder for prime is not going to cure this problem, but it might cure the problems of frizzens and pans that are not well fitted together.

I think most flintlock shooters will have some of both FFFFg and FFFg in their range boxes, to use as needed for priming their locks.