Paper cartridge and lubed wads

[user 33697]

Hi guys,

I've read a lot of posts in the forum and other web postings concerning paper cartridges and lubed wads with conflicting information on paper cartridge shelf life. I had a previous post sometime ago on the subject of paper cartridges and I did not express correctly my questions regarding paper cartridges and wads. So...this post is hopefully has better questions below for forum member's experience with making and shooting paper cartridges.

I have been making paper cartridges for my Uberti 1858 and Uberti 1860 using a lubed wad between powder and ball. This has worked out fine but I’ve often wondered if there is a shelf life to my paper cartridges for the possibility of the lube from the wad deteriorating the powder. Months? Years? Do forum members that make paper cartridges had past detrimental effects of long term storage of paper cartridges that contain lubed wads? I’ve read of some guys putting a .45 cal. card (as used by re-loaders for .45 long colt metallic cartridges) between the powder and wad in a paper cartridge. Would a card extend the shelf life for a lube wadded paper cartridge?

 

[LST-1185]

When I first started to make paper cartridges I used a lube wad. I remember when I went to use them later on that the paper just above the wad look discolored. When shooting these cartridges the revolver just didn't sound or feel right to me. After that I changed to using dry wads and that solved the problems I was having. Hopefully some others will add their thoughts on this for you.

 

[Flinty Scot]

re: shelf life of paper cartridges, digging through storage, I found a half dozen I made for a Colt 1860 Army, back about 1964. They've stayed dry and firm in a tight box. I'd have no qualms about firing them now - once I locate the .44.

 

[FlyingMountainBoomer]

I tried using the wonder wads between the powder and ball on my .36 paper cartridges. I noticed that the lube appeared to leach out to the paper and probably onto the powder as well. I've since started melting a beeswax/olive oil blend onto the back of the ball where it meets the paper. That seems to work really well and I haven't noticed any discoloration on the paper from oil leaching.

 

[user 33697]

I tried using the wonder wads between the powder and ball on my .36 paper cartridges. I noticed that the lube appeared to leach out to the paper and probably onto the powder as well. I've since started melting a beeswax/olive oil blend onto the back of the ball where it meets the paper. That seems to work really well and I haven't noticed any discoloration on the paper from oil leaching.

Thanks. I'll try the beeswax/olive oil as you described.

 

[jmb1911]

I punch out thin card wads out of playing cards and put one between the lubed wad and powder. The playing cards are waxed, and prevent the lube leaching into the powder charge. I have paper cartridges that I have loaded like this that are going on 2 years old now. They fire just as well as when they were made.

 

[user 33697]

I punch out thin card wads out of playing cards and put one between the lubed wad and powder. The playing cards are waxed, and prevent the lube leaching into the powder charge. I have paper cartridges that I have loaded like this that are going on 2 years old now. They fire just as well as when they were made.

Thanks for your experience with paper cartridges.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Made a batch of carts with my home lubed lambs tallow/beeswax wads and left them for about a month. The paper around the wad started to darken but they fired fine. I wouldn’t put them up for a long time though.

 

[Red Owl]

One thing that doesn't get mentioned much, the remington has a huge cut in the frame so you can add a wad, etc. but on the Colt Navy, the cut is much smaller and if you make the cartridge too long you'll have trouble getting it into the chamber.

 

[Widows Son]

I tried using the wonder wads between the powder and ball on my .36 paper cartridges. I noticed that the lube appeared to leach out to the paper and probably onto the powder as well. I've since started melting a beeswax/olive oil blend onto the back of the ball where it meets the paper. That seems to work really well and I haven't noticed any discoloration on the paper from oil leaching.

I’ve been cogitating about this method. The purpose of the lubricant is to keep the fouling soft and help prevent chain fires, yes?
Doesn’t the majority of the lubricant get rubbed off the projectile by the loading lever?

 

[Blackpowderart]

I would think one could just make paper cartridge the standard way...load cylinder and then last step load lubed wads over the ball like some use grease over the chambers use lubed felt instead

 

[smoothshooter]

Made a batch of carts with my home lubed lambs tallow/beeswax wads and left them for about a month. The paper around the wad started to darken but they fired fine. I wouldn’t put them up for a long time though.

Fold a small piece of wax paper around the lubed wad before placing it in the paper tube. Will contain he grease in he wad until load is fired. At that point the wax paper will rupture and let the lube do it’s thing.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Fold a small piece of wax paper around the lubed wad before placing it in the paper tube. Will contain he grease in he wad until load is fired. At that point the wax paper will rupture and let the lube do it’s thing.

Thanks, Smoothshooter. Great idea!

 

[ernbar]

I see that we put the wad between the powder and ball but then there are those that use a lube on top of the conical or ball. So why not add the patch last?

 

[Stantheman86]

Just be needlessly extra, Van Helsing-like or Steampunkish by using tiny glass jars to hold your powder charges. The lubed wads can go into something else cool like a brass pill box.

They're like $5 per 100 off Ebay so if you lose some it doesn't matter. They are surprisingly durable and the glass won't break.

They're probably only good for super careful loading like for competition target shooting but I just like to be weird sometimes

 

[ernbar]

Just be needlessly extra, Van Helsing-like or Steampunkish by using tiny glass jars to hold your powder charges. The lubed wads can go into something else cool like a brass pill box.

View attachment 207396

They're like $5 per 100 off Ebay so if you lose some it doesn't matter. They are surprisingly durable and the glass won't break.

They're probably only good for super careful loading like for competition target shooting but I just like to be weird sometimes

I also use pre cut plastic tubing capped at both ends for pre measured loads. Cuts down the loading time at the range.