Parts Kit Build By A Beginner(Running Thread)

[rabjr]

I would take that top plate and copy it onto a piece of suitable brass, stretching the end out where it needs to be and cut it out. Clean it up and there ya go one side plate made for the gun. :thumbsup:

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Looks to me like you could take the original side plate that was furnished with your parts and slot the hole and make it work, does not look like your short by much.

Other wise just make a new one, like the one I made for this pistol.

 

[Vtsmoker]

I also considered cutting and soldering the plate I got from track then having it engraved in a way that will hide the cut joint. Before I ruin a $25 side plate (with shipping) I think I will call RE Davis and ask them what to use first. I also think the plate I got from track is too large for the gun. What do you all think?

 

[rabjr]

http://www.redaviscompany.com/plates.html

 

[Vtsmoker]

Yup. thats what I was looking at. Got to ask them which on fits the "Early English" lock. I like the looks of the English Fowler plate and one would think it would fit the English Fowler lock but it doesn't say. I'll try to call them tomorrow. Looks like it may be a bear to inlet for a beginner though :haha:

 

[hoochiepapa]

That's the only way to learn. THere's an old saying, "If you're not making mistakes, you're not doing anything."

 

[Vtsmoker]

Seems like I'm "doing" alot on this build :rotf:

 

[Vtsmoker]

well I ended up making a side plate using the original as a template and extended the length to allow for the front lock bolt. Got a sheet of .080 brass from track.

Then I got the front lock bolt drilled and tapped as well as the new side plate and fit everything together. Had some time left in the day so decided to start shaping the lock panels.

And the lock side

This all took about 6hrs. start to finish. Do the lock panels look ok or do they need more work? Also started to inlet the side plate but it doesn't show in the pics.

 

[rabjr]

Nice job on the side plate! :thumbsup:

Pay attention to Mikes building tutorial and other pics of guns showing the lock panels. Yours have way to much wood and need to be taken down to half whats showing at least..

 

What Swampy said, and keep the edges sharp, don't round them. Going good, slow and steady. Stop and ask questions, there are no stupid ones.

Bill

 

[Vtsmoker]

I have been studying my pics and can see the lock panels are a little "thick" but I can't reduce them much more with the tools I have. If you look in the background of the second pic you can see the half round rasp/file I have to work with and that monster will destroy whats left. Any recomendations on a tool I can purchase to get-er-done?

 

[rabjr]

Are you looking at Mikes tutorial ? You need to draw your lines where you want your lock panels to be, just like he does...

You'll notice he uses a rasp to take them down to the lines...you can wrap different grades of sand paper emery cloth around a file or piece of metal if thats all you have...

 

[RHill]

Use a round dowel (different sizes for different areas) with sandpaper wrapped around it. Doesn't cost much.

 

[mikemeteor]

If you haven't inlet the sideplate already, you might consider taking some length off the nose of the sideplate, so your front bolt is more on the end of it, and your sideplate panel can match your lockplate panel.

 

[Vtsmoker]

I see what your saying. The nose of the side plate is a little long but I've already done the inlet. I plan to have some engraving on the sideplate to dress it up a little. I'm also not quite finished with the lock panels. I just need to figure out how to reduce/shape them a little more without tearing them up with the coarse rasp I have. The dowel and sandpaper sounds like a great idea but would take a long time to cut the panels by half. Reading all the suggestions I get and seeing what will work best for me. Thanks for the replies guys. keep em coming. Seem to have lost some of my support group on this thread so all help is appreciated.

 

[jrn156]

Try reducing the sideplate using a chainsaw sharpening file that's been heated red hot and bent at a 90 degree angle and allowed to cool. Even though it will be annealed it will still be hard enough to cut wood plus its quicker than sand paper. You can smooth up the cut with the dowel wrapped in sandpaper. I picked up the file along with a bunch of others and some chisels from a local pawn shop used for next to nothing.

 

[lonehorseman]

Keep going dude! I love the thread. I have a chunk of wood and a pile of components lying on my my shop table. Your effort and the encouragement from all these great folks is urging me to get going on MY project.

I'll listen quietly now...

 

[Vtsmoker]

I keep looking at this and something just doesn't look right. I think the "loop" for the top bolt should have been taller or should have left the bottom of the sideplate straight. Should I contour the lock panel to match the bottom of the sideplate so it doesn't look so crooked?

 

[mikemeteor]

Smoker -
hop on over to this thread Fowler photos and study some pics.

did you file a bevel on that sideplate yet ?
/mm

 

[Vtsmoker]

That was the thread that inspired me to do this! I can see most of the lock panels are about the same as I have. Only a few have very fine outlines. I need to quit being so fussy and go with it. Think I'll just touch up the sideplate panel and call it good. Pic was taken before I inlet the sideplate. Thanks for that link. It answered alot of questions. :thumbsup: