Sorry man. I am a perfectionist in everything I do and if it ain't what I envision I get a little upset. However...don't go into one of these parts kits thinking you just have to do a little touch-up and bolt things together,even with a pre-carve stock. I told the supplier I was a beginner and wanted a stock I had to do VERY little inletting on. He assured me what needed to be done would not be too difficult to handle. I expected all of the furniture to be MOSTLY inletted and that was not at all the case. These kits are alot harder than it sounds in print. Not trying to freak anyone out or scare anyone off, but your getting the point of view of a beginner. You may be more skilled than I making your build easier but you are getting the idea it's not an easy project. :thumbsup:
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Parts Kit Build By A Beginner(Running Thread)
- Thread starter Vtsmoker
- Start date
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Ryzman,
I have a Chamber's set that I'm working on now. It is also my 1st build. Like VT I'm a perfectionist according to my girlfriend. I have spent alot, alot of time just looking at the gun in the vise. I've figured out I need to think about 3 or 4 steps ahead to make sure everything lines up like lock bolts, vent, tang bolt in relation to trigger pin etc, etc, etc.
As for the kit, I have no complaints. Any mistakes I made so far was my fault. FYI super sharp tools a must. I will say that in their instructions and the DVD's they say inlet the barrel 1st. I started to do that then one or more members on here said I should inlet the lock panel 1st so I stopped and did that. Good thing I did because I had to move the barrel back well over an 1/8" of an inch to get the vent centered in the pan and near or hopefully just in front of the breech plug. My only thought and I probably did something wrong. The DVD's say all you have to do is square the breech area, it might be alittle more than that but no biggie. The components are great for what I know. I'll say the Rice Barrel was beautiful when I unpacked it. If I don't mess anything else up I'll be a great shooter, but maybe not the belle of the ball. :haha:
fosters
I have a Chamber's set that I'm working on now. It is also my 1st build. Like VT I'm a perfectionist according to my girlfriend. I have spent alot, alot of time just looking at the gun in the vise. I've figured out I need to think about 3 or 4 steps ahead to make sure everything lines up like lock bolts, vent, tang bolt in relation to trigger pin etc, etc, etc.
As for the kit, I have no complaints. Any mistakes I made so far was my fault. FYI super sharp tools a must. I will say that in their instructions and the DVD's they say inlet the barrel 1st. I started to do that then one or more members on here said I should inlet the lock panel 1st so I stopped and did that. Good thing I did because I had to move the barrel back well over an 1/8" of an inch to get the vent centered in the pan and near or hopefully just in front of the breech plug. My only thought and I probably did something wrong. The DVD's say all you have to do is square the breech area, it might be alittle more than that but no biggie. The components are great for what I know. I'll say the Rice Barrel was beautiful when I unpacked it. If I don't mess anything else up I'll be a great shooter, but maybe not the belle of the ball. :haha:
fosters
Thanks for trusting us and inletting your lock as was suggested.
If you ever buy a stock without the lock mortice pre-cut, you do inlay the barrel first and then use it to establish where the lock should be but, with the lock mortice already started, it must become the starting point for the breech of the barrel.
The problem with some of the DVD's for pre-carved, pre-inletted guns is they tend to assume everything was done properly on the stock.
As you learned, this is often not the case.
Happy Building. :thumbsup:
If you ever buy a stock without the lock mortice pre-cut, you do inlay the barrel first and then use it to establish where the lock should be but, with the lock mortice already started, it must become the starting point for the breech of the barrel.
The problem with some of the DVD's for pre-carved, pre-inletted guns is they tend to assume everything was done properly on the stock.
As you learned, this is often not the case.
Happy Building. :thumbsup:
Got out to the shop today and had a pretty good day. Got the barrel pinned which is a task i had been dreding but it went easier than I thought. :thumbsup: Got the trigger inlet and the tang screw drilled. Also drilled the lock plate and drilled the hole through the stock for the lock bolt. The lock bolt did end up going through the breech plug lug right close to the barrel. Removed the barrel and oversized the hole in the breech lug. Also drilled the side plate for the top lock bolt and tried to locate a front lock bolt but this side plate doesn't line up for a foward lock bolt. My only downer of the day was I broke my 8-32 tap trying to thread the trigger plate so I couldn't cut any of my bolts threads . That's ok...Snap-on comes tomorrow so I'll get a new one.
. That's ok...Snap-on comes tomorrow so I'll get a new one.That is simple. Use a different sideplate or make a new one. You can use the existing one for the pattern. Go to Hobby Shop & get some brass plate the same thickness, extend the new plate so the front lockscrew will work in the proper place.
Keith Lisle
Keith Lisle
hoochiepapa
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The same thing happened on my first build. The kit maker sent me too short a side plate, and being a dummy and not having this forum to go to, I just made a washer to extend the side plate. Looks like crap, amd now that I've got it all apart to install a new lock, I'm gonna make a new side plate.
Keb
50 Cal.
Use some lube on the tap. Motor oil will do if you have no cutting fluid. Water will work too but only as a last resort. Take it easy. Don't force the tap. Take short turns (1/4 to 1/2 revolution) then back it up to break the chips off. Clean (blow) the tap flutes. You won't break no more taps.
My tap was part of a set I've had for 20 years. I think it was just dull and brittle from age and use. Got a brand new one so that should take care of it. That lock plate is some hard steel I'll tell you what. My drill bits are sharp but had a tough time cutting for the lock bolt. I'll have some new pics up soon :thumbsup: .
Got the threads cut on my trigger plate and lock plate and everything fit together fine. Now for a question on the trigger guard. I know the trigger plate has to go down a little further.
The front lug for the trigger guard falls right over where the tang bolt comes into the trigger plate.
Do I just cut this lug off and use a screw for the front finial. Also, the lug to the rear of the loop...do I cut the rear of the trigger plate to be able to pin that lug? If I do that the rear screw for the trigger plate will be visable.
The front lug for the trigger guard falls right over where the tang bolt comes into the trigger plate.
Do I just cut this lug off and use a screw for the front finial. Also, the lug to the rear of the loop...do I cut the rear of the trigger plate to be able to pin that lug? If I do that the rear screw for the trigger plate will be visable.
Guest
You don't have a lug forward of the trigger plate? If not I'd probably cut the lugs off that are in the way and possibly silver braze a lug up forward, and probably screw the rear on, though I don't know how period correct it would be. Maybe some of the more experienced builders can help. :idunno:
Keb
50 Cal.
Be careful before you start cutting lugs off. You could wind up regretting it later.
It looks like the lug is going where the tang screw mounts to the trigger plate. Not good. I don't think you wanna screw the trigger guard down with a wood screw either. That's so CVA You are near the ramrod hole and don't want the screw breaking out in that hole. It would be nice to move the TG forward enough for the lug to clear the screw hole. You may have to narrow the lug and drill accurate mounting holes though. Slot the trigger plate for the lug & mount with pins. That's what I'd do. I ain't no expert. I'm just another hack with poor communication skills.
It looks like the lug is going where the tang screw mounts to the trigger plate. Not good. I don't think you wanna screw the trigger guard down with a wood screw either. That's so CVA
You are near the ramrod hole and don't want the screw breaking out in that hole. It would be nice to move the TG forward enough for the lug to clear the screw hole. You may have to narrow the lug and drill accurate mounting holes though. Slot the trigger plate for the lug & mount with pins. That's what I'd do. I ain't no expert. I'm just another hack with poor communication skills.
Vtsmoker, I cut off lugs and reposition them with silver solder, when the need arises. With a fowler type guard I try to reposition them as close to the bow as possible, due to the light bendy nature of those guards. From the picture shown, I would probably reposition the front one at a location that would require filing a slot in the trigger plate, as I have done it before and found no problems in doing so. The rear one has got to go. I guess I'd have to see the whole thing to decide just where I would put it. Good luck!
Robby
Robby
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Vtsmoker said:
... well... not exactly, as it turns out.
best to not be surprised by these TG/TP fit issues after inletting has been done.
some earlier cipherin' and possible TP shortening and tang bolt orientation may have been in order, but that's hindsight now.
I suspect you'll get lots of suggested work-arounds and fixes.
One option I'd consider is plugging and re-orienting the tang bolt so it exits closer to the trigger, IF: (1) the tang bolt head still looks acceptable in it's countersink, and (2) the bolt clears the trigger post inside the trigger inlet - maybe could modify/file the post if needed.
Then you could keep your front lug, and shorten the TP and backfill the inlet, or slot the TP to accept it. This would also make your first slightly off-center tang bolt hole in the TP go away
Narrowing the fore-aft axis of the front lug - filing off the rear half of it - will give you more room to locate the tang bolt exit.
let us know how you work thru it :hatsoff:
Bruce Bogart
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I could see cutting off the front lug and running a machine screw from the inside of the trigger plate thru to the tgaurd. Then use a wood screw for the rear after removing that lug. My $.02 worth and worth both cents :hmm:
Studying the pic helps give me a point of view I can't get in the shop. Here's what I'm thinking...as was suggested I'll slot the front of the trigger plate right at the front and cut and solder the front lug forward a little. As for the rear lug I'll cut and solder it back a little and slot the trigger plate in the rear also. Silver solder has been mentioned but I have some solder from my toolbox. It's 40/60 Rosin core. Will this work for this task or do I need to get the silver solder?
You should figured this before ya inlet it & should have take some off the triggerplate, it is too long. You put the trigger asm into the guard & figure what is where & how much room you want in the front of the trigger, where the lugs will go, etc. Then you put it against the rifle & orientate the screw for the tang & etc.
Before ya go any further, you best stick a rod down the RR hole & mark the other end at the end of the muzzle. Then take it out & put it across the bottom of the stock & see where the end of the RR is going to be in reference to the triggerplate. As it is, you may not have room for a lug there.
Mark that end of the RR on the bottom of the stock. Then you see if you have wood there to inlet a lug.
If you move the front lug forward, you Silver Solder it on, not soft solder.... (or braze it) The next lug I see just past the bow could be a casting lug or a retaining lug, don't know as you are not showing the entire triggerguard.
Show us the whole guard. You should have another lug on the tail of the triggerguard. That is to be inletted & pinned thru the stock, same as the front lug. Some guards have 2 retaining lugs, some have 3.
Connecting the triggerguard to the triggerplate is a general PITA and will always be an issue when you want to do trigger work or whatever. No way I would connect them. but that is just me.
Keith Lisle
Before ya go any further, you best stick a rod down the RR hole & mark the other end at the end of the muzzle. Then take it out & put it across the bottom of the stock & see where the end of the RR is going to be in reference to the triggerplate. As it is, you may not have room for a lug there.
Mark that end of the RR on the bottom of the stock. Then you see if you have wood there to inlet a lug.
If you move the front lug forward, you Silver Solder it on, not soft solder.... (or braze it) The next lug I see just past the bow could be a casting lug or a retaining lug, don't know as you are not showing the entire triggerguard.
Show us the whole guard. You should have another lug on the tail of the triggerguard. That is to be inletted & pinned thru the stock, same as the front lug. Some guards have 2 retaining lugs, some have 3.
Connecting the triggerguard to the triggerplate is a general PITA and will always be an issue when you want to do trigger work or whatever. No way I would connect them. but that is just me.
Keith Lisle
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