Patch box Inlet question

[The Deacon]

I'm installing a Bean style patch-box on a Kibler SMR. The patch-box is inlet flush, except in one spot, about 3/8" at the center front of the patch-box.
The metal is about a 1/16" lower then the wood. I think it's because of the curve in the profile of the stock. I did my best to try and match the profile. But, the patch-box is steel and doesn't bend very easy,
I'm afraid if I bend it anymore I'll create a gape around the inlet.
Would you bring the wood, in that small area, down to meet the metal or are there some else I should try?

 

[poker]

Id bring the wood down to flush it up with the patchbox.

 

[The Deacon]

Thank you. This really is my first kit build.
About a year ago I tried to build a rifle from parts I received from the wife of a friend that passed. But, at the time it was beyond my abilities.
This built seems to be going well, so far.
Hopefully what I learned from this Kibler kit build and the books I read will help me complete the one I started last year.
I have learned that my inletting skills have a long way to go, to be any where near the skills of the people on this forum.

 

[poker]

Thats how we learn, by doing. Keep at it and your skills will steadily improve.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

bend the metal up or file the wood down. Those are the only two options.

 

[Pete G]

Try some sort of a shim under the low point .

 

[SDSmlf]

The patch-box is inlet flush, except in one spot, about 3/8" at the center front of the patch-box.
The metal is about a 1/16" lower then the wood.

If the patch box is inlet flush except for being a 1/16” lower than the wood at the front, for me it’s time to bend the patch box. If you lower the wood you will have to blend it into the stock profile. Depends on how much wood you have left to remove.

 

[squirehawk1774]

Here's a little trick for bending patchboxes to fit your stock profile. You cam make an upper and lower swage from hard maple to match your stock. Place your box between the two swage pieces and squeeze them with your vice. This method won't leave any hammer marks in the box from bending.

 

[Norman Brooks]

A picture would help.

 

[squirehawk1774]

I'll draw up a picture of the swage. I don't have one made at this moment. I make a new one from scrap wood as needed and then toss.

 

[jtkerk]

Here's a little trick for bending patchboxes to fit your stock profile. You cam make an upper and lower swage from hard maple to match your stock. Place your box between the two swage pieces and squeeze them with your vice. This method won't leave any hammer marks in the box from bending.

Could u provide photos and or detailed instructions on how to build the swage that is exactly like the gun stock?

 

[Pete G]

Don’t forget that the box is steel so you must allow for spring back.

 

[jtkerk]

I'll draw up a picture of the swage. I don't have one made at this moment. I make a new one from scrap wood as needed and then toss.

I’ve seen photos of them before but how would you go about duplicating them for your particular stock is what baffles me.

 

[2 shots]

a contour gauge would be the best bet.

 

[squirehawk1774]

When I make my patch box I only worry about the hinge and finial matching my stock contour fairly close. I also put the bend in my hinge before cutting the knuckles. This way the hinge can have some bend and not bind or have gaps and still work. Since the butt stock has more than one radius to it and how a box will sit on a stock most box lids need a bit of twist along with a radius to lay right on the rifle.