patch lube,,,,,,,,,,

[olskool]

I went outside to my range today to try some new patch lube. I mixed up mineral oil with denatured alcohol, 5+1 I sprayed the .018 ticking and let it dry. it barley had an oil feel to the ticking. I used goex 3f and swiss 3f, I shot about 25 times with my 40 NC mountain rifle. I did not swab between any shots. I was surprised! the last 395 ball slid down the 42in tube with little resistance. up until about ball #18 they all slid down like butter. my old lube "beeswax and olive oil would have been getting tight after 8 or 10 shots. when I cleaned the gun it took about 1/2 as much time as usual. the barrel was surprisingly clean! I stopped using swiss about a year ago because after about 5 shots it would develop a hard build up ring down toward the breach and the ball was hard to seat, not today, it slid right to the bottom with little effort! next I am going to try castor oil, but the mineral oil worked perfect. who else here has tried it?

 

[Carbon 6]

I commend you for making your own homemade Ballistol

 

[olskool]

I think Ballistol has more in it than that!

 

[Carbon 6]

I think Ballistol has more in it than that!

Not really, you are missing one important ingredient, but it's irrelevant for patch lube.

Ballistol contains:

Mineral Oil
Potassium Oleate
Ammonium Oleate
Oleic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Amyl Alcohol
Isobutyl Alcohol
Benzyl Acetate
Anethole
Isohexane (aerosol only)


The two important patch lube ingredients are mineral oil and alcohol.

 

[russellshaffer]

Ballistol MSDS:

Ballistol contains medicinal grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of oleic acid, several alcohols, Benzyl Acetate and an oil from vegetal seeds. The mineral oil is unchlorinated and conforms to the specifications of US Pharmacopeia XX.

I wonder what the vegetal seed might be

 

[Carbon 6]

I wonder what the vegetal seed might be

That's the anethole. Derived from and smells like anise or fennel. Smells like licorice.
Gives Ballistol it's disgusting smell, though it would probably smell worse without it.

 

[fillwa]

Mineral oil & alcohol sounds interesting. I’m going to give your recipe a try.
Right now I’m using Murphy’s and alcohol with no complaint, just want to see if your recipe is a viable alternative for me.

 

[olskool]

I tried Murphy’s and alcohol, it works good, but it doesn't seem to leave the barrel clean like the mineral oil with denatured alcohol dose. I really started out to use castor oil and alcohol, but mineral was all I had. i will try the castor oil next, it was used in aircraft engines in ww1 and later. that is the reason ww1 pilots wore scarfs over there face, the castor oil would blow in there face and castor oil is a powerful laxative, hard to fly a plane like that,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Doc Ivory]

Hmmmmm, I wonder if Castor oil would work as well.

 

[Byrd]

I've been using the Castor oil/alcohol recipe for a couple years with great results. The patches are almost dry after the alcohol evaporates. They load easily and I can get 10 or more shots between bore wipes.

 

[rafterob]

The OP mentions the issues he had with the olive oil-beeswax mixture. I too went through a period of making my lube a little firmer by adding bees wax. A little less in the winter, a little more in the summer. It was less greasy than the straight tallow I was using and a good consistency for applying.
However, I came to the conclusion that the addition of the wax contributing to quicker fouling and more difficult cleaning. I now use a liquid lube in a small spray bottle or spit patch in the field.

 

[Carbon 6]

The OP mentions the issues he had with the olive oil-beeswax mixture. I too went through a period of making my lube a little firmer by adding bees wax. A little less in the winter, a little more in the summer. It was less greasy than the straight tallow I was using and a good consistency for applying.
However, I came to the conclusion that the addition of the wax contributing to quicker fouling and more difficult cleaning. I now use a liquid lube in a small spray bottle or spit patch in the field.

A lot of people use Beeswax/olive oil lube incorrectly. That is to say, they expect it to do things it can't or they use it for applications it's not suited for.
When using the beeswax/olive oil lube it is important to swab between shots if you are doing a lot of shooting. Beeswax/olive oil lube is best meant for hunting, load and carry for days, shoot once, go home.
It's not a good range lube, but you can load it and shoot it months later without a problem.

 

[chiller]

Do you place your your patches in while shooting or for storage between range shooting?

 

[Carbon 6]

Do you place your your patches in while shooting or for storage between range shooting?

Who are you talking to ?

 

[chiller]

Who are you talking to ?

Anyone who would like to reply.

 

[Carbon 6]

Anyone who would like to reply.

Oh, I thought maybe it was specific. Not sure I understand what you are asking.

I assume you are referring to pre-lubed patches ?
Answer: I don't pre-lube patches unless I'm going to shoot them that day. In which case they sit in my lube tin.
Most range shooting I use spit for lube, so there is no pre-lubing at all.

 

[Rifleman1776]

The patches are almost dry after the alcohol evaporates.

I have always questioned the value of using alcohol in a patch lube. The stuff evaporates so darn fast that, I surmise, it would be of no benefit.

 

[Crow-Feather]

I have always questioned the value of using alcohol in a patch lube. The stuff evaporates so darn fast that, I surmise, it would be of no benefit.

I am far from being a person that knows about alcohol .................... "Bu-Sh" ..................... But I believe that the alcohol mixes with the other ingredients and an thins them enough to have them permeate the cloth.

 

[fillwa]

I tried Murphy’s and alcohol, it works good, but it doesn't seem to leave the barrel clean like the mineral oil with denatured alcohol dose. I really started out to use castor oil and alcohol, but mineral was all I had. i will try the castor oil next, it was used in aircraft engines in ww1 and later. that is the reason ww1 pilots wore scarfs over there face, the castor oil would blow in there face and castor oil is a powerful laxative, hard to fly a plane like that,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Love the castor oil story.
I will definitely try mineral oil in place of Murphy’s. Albeit I have not had cleaning issues with Murphy’s. I go to the range and fire 5 sets of 3 round shots and no need to swab until clean up when I’m done.
As far as pre-lubed & storage, I repurpose a prescription pill bottle with a tight lid, my patches are generously lubed also.

 

[olskool]

I am far from being a person that knows about alcohol .................... "Bu-Sh" ..................... But I believe that the alcohol mixes with the other ingredients and an thins them enough to have them permeate the cloth.

yes that is what alcohol dose, it is a catalyst for the oil,,,,,,,,,,,,,