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Patch question

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So I was just thinking that perhaps a stronger material than pillow ticking could prevent patch blow out from stronger powder charges.
Like silk for a more traditional fabric or teflon for those who would be ok with more modern materials maybe?
Not that I am about to go cut patches from one of my silk scarves mind you. (although I must admit to the temptation just to try it out)

Just asking you guys because chances are some one already has an answer for that one.
 
Teflon patches have been used in chunk gun competitions. I use mattress ticking and a grease type lube in my 54 with loads up to 110 grains and the patches look like they could be used again. BTW that's as stout a load as I care to use. Silk is protein so it could react to heat differently. 100%cotton denim is another popular choice. It comes in varying thicknesses. Just experiment until you find what works best. Getting the thickness right is the best solution to blown patches.
 
FWIW...IMO pillow ticking is a pretty commonly accepted, strong patch material...and usually issues of blow by, blown/burned patches are resolved by just using a thicker patch for a tighter PRB combo...and/or...more lube or a different lube.
Can't comment on silk as I have no first hand experience with it...
 
cynthialee said:
ApprenticeBuilder said:
I use .026 cotton denim

.50 cal, .495 ball .026 denim patch
I doubt that I would be strong enough to get such a tight combo down the barrel.

Its not as bad as you might think, once past the crown it loads about like any other.

I have polished the crown to facilitate the loading process, This combination is very accurate in my rifle and along with my patch lube can shoot a full trail/range session without the need to clean between shots.

I also have denim that measures in at .022, very common and a bit stronger than the ticking.

fixed my spelling

:blah:
 
ApprenticeBuilder said:
cynthialee said:
ApprenticeBuilder said:
I use .026 cotton denim

.50 cal, .495 ball .026 denim patch
I doubt that I would be strong enough to get such a tight combo down the barrel.

Its not as bad as you might think, once past the crown it loads about like any other.

I have polished the crown to facilitate the loading process, This combination is very accurate in my rifle and along with my patch lube can soot a full trail/range session without the need to clean between shots.

I also have denim that measures in at .022, very common and a bit stronger than the ticking.
I was just thinking I could dress as a proper Victorian Lady on a hunting lark, bring a strong porter dressed as a proper native scout and a gentlman adventurer and make the men load my rifle for me!

ok ok maybe that is a little over the top but it has a certain appeal...
 
cynthialee said:
ApprenticeBuilder said:
cynthialee said:
ApprenticeBuilder said:
I use .026 cotton denim

.50 cal, .495 ball .026 denim patch
I doubt that I would be strong enough to get such a tight combo down the barrel.

Its not as bad as you might think, once past the crown it loads about like any other.

I have polished the crown to facilitate the loading process, This combination is very accurate in my rifle and along with my patch lube can soot a full trail/range session without the need to clean between shots.

I also have denim that measures in at .022, very common and a bit stronger than the ticking.
I was just thinking I could dress as a proper Victorian Lady on a hunting lark, bring a strong porter dressed as a proper native scout and a gentlman adventurer and make the men load my rifle for me!

ok ok maybe that is a little over the top but it has a certain appeal...

Don't forget the cabanna boy to bring you the drinks with the umbrellas in them as well as the fan boy to keep you cool with the palm frond etc.
 
Your mentioning silk as a possible patching material brought a smile to my face.

That's because one of the dumber lines from a movie about the days of muzzleloading has the hero saying something like, "A silk patch is good for another 40 yards!"

This is totally untrue.

The low burning temperature of silk will cause it to vanish if it is sitting next to a charge of black powder when the powder ignites.

If you have one of those modern inventions called an electric iron, check out the settings on its temperature control.

Silk needs a cool sitting if you don't want to burn a hole thru some fancy silk cloth.
Cotton and Linen on the other hand can take the "max" settings on the irons temperature settings without burning a hole thru them.
 
I have been eyeing the linen tableclothes that my grandmother so lovingly did a beautiful job of embroidering. My wife swears at them every time she uses them because they're such a pain to iron out every crease and make them presentable. But, every time I offer to save her the labour and buy her some nice wash & wear tableclothes, she gets downright hostile that all I want to do is cut them up in little square pieces.
Sure sounds like a win-win to me.

Paul
 
I like to use a material called pocket drill. It is a 100% cotton fabric that I buy at Jo Ann fabric shop. It is a good tight weave that makes a great patch material. Another trick is to use about 15 grains (volume measurement in your powder measure) of either cornmeal, grits or Cream of Wheat on top of your powder charge. After adding your powder charge, tap the side of the barrel to settle the powder and then add the grits, cornmeal or what have you. This will form a seal between the burning powder and the back of your patch. If you have never heard of this trick, you may think I am pulling your leg but it is a common trick and does absolutely no damage to your gun. It also gives an interesting toasty odor to your smoke. There is a material called Puff Lon that is a powdery polymeric material that is intended to be used in the same manner. I have some and use it but cornmeal is a LOT cheaper and just as effective.

Another idea is to buy a custom made punch from Ohio Ramrod on this forum (amazingly affordable) and then buy some 3/16 hard 100% wool felt from Duro Felt in Arkansas. Punch out some felt wads, put your favorite lube on them and use them on top of your powder charge. They will do the same as the cornmeal in protecting your patch from the hot gasses from the burning powder.

Just a couple ideas from an old fart who has tried a lot of different things over the many years that I have been building and shooting muzzleloaders ;>)
 
I used to burn thru patches with my 54 when I used anything over 100 gr 2f. I used over powder felt wads between my prb and the powder charge.These are for my hunting loads so its no big thing. Under 90gr I dont seem to need the over powder wad. FRJ
 
I can see you just don't understand.

You can bet the farm on what's going thru your wife's head when she's spreading that tablecloth out. It goes something like this,

"THERE!
That's something that no one I know except me has. :grin:
I do hope they don't spill anything on it but it's worth it to me to take the chance just to see their faces as they admire it." :grin:

Now, if you cut it up to make patches, the next time you have company over she'll be thinking,

"That table looks so bare without MY linen tablecloth with the nice embroidery on it.
Leave it to that no good worm of a husband to totally RUIN my life by destroying all of that lovely work his grandmother created. :( "

As you can see, if you cut it up, you would never live it down.
 
cynthialee said:
nchawkeye said:
If your gun is hard on ticking it would be better to fine out why...
it isn't

just an acedemic question because it was rattleing around in my head

ic...Well, years ago when I thought I needed large powder charges I was shooting 120grs FF Goex in my .54...I was burning patches so I used hornets nesting material between powder and ball to help insulate the patch...

Through the years, I have gone to 100grs FF and now 80grs FFF with no noticable loss of killing power...

I have also played around with tanned hide and linen...I keep coming back to ticking as it's easily obtainable and does the job if lubed properly and charges are reasonable...
 
Bill,
I been ussing corn meal in my pistol for awhile. I had asked in anouther thread if cornmeal might come in handy in the rifle also and got a mixed bag of opinions.
:)

However the only real reason I was thining of corn meal in the first place was to keep lube from poluting my powder, which seems to not be a major issue I need to worry about anyways.

I find that when I load my pistol with a cornmeal filler that the recoil is somewhat stronger.
 
I find that a leather over powder wad prevents heavy charges from blowing the patches. They also allow for heavy lubing without "fouling " the powder.. Since I make my own punches and have a large supply of leather scraps it doesn't add to the cost.
 
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