Pietta 1860 Army model question.

[amerikanerfallschirmjager]

So, I am defarbing my Pietta of the ugly stampings and changing the finish. But what really drives me nuts are the shoulder stock retaining screws on either side. These big goofy screw heads sitting proud of the frame just looks like hell. Was thinking of plug welding the holes but if anyone knows a drop in screw that would be flush that would be a lot less work.

 

[45D]

I make decorative buttons out of them, colored with the screws. They screw in from the inside.

Mike

 

[Whitworth]

My ASM 1860 has thin screws that sit nearly flush, might just try some different screws with a thinner head. A set screw filed flush with the surface if you want the screw head totally gone is another option.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I chucked them in a drill and thinned the heads a bit then recut the slots. This model of 1860 would look goofy with out the screws to me. There are 1860s made without the stock mounting screws and cuts. Maybe you could do some shopping for one to defarb.

 

[Erwan]

Why not cut the legs of the screws and do like @45D ...
Simple and enough esthetical...

 

[hawkeye2]

Using a screw without some type of head isn't a good idea. With no head to stop it it's possible to turn the right hand screw in far enough to interfere with the bolt's operation. One can turn the screw's head diameter down to where there is just enough lip to catch on the frame and the head can be thinned too. Your frame's recoil shield is cut for a shoulder stock so plug welding the holes to eliminate the screws would result in a 60 Army that is not correct and partially defeat your defarbing. There is a "civilian version" of the 60 Army that is not cut for the stock and doesn't have the screws.

 

[hrt4me]

So, I am defarbing my Pietta of the ugly stampings and changing the finish. But what really drives me nuts are the shoulder stock retaining screws on either side. These big goofy screw heads sitting proud of the frame just looks like hell. Was thinking of plug welding the holes but if anyone knows a drop in screw that would be flush that would be a lot less work.

dang, I would trade you one of my own Pietta 1860 Army models for yours with those 4th screws...

 

[Gee Dog]

Paratrooper - I had the same question, glad you asked. I don't mind the shoulder stock screws esthetically. On an 1860 they're OK but on a Navy they tend to impede a comfortable grip. Mike's / 45D's buttons are a beautiful fix.

 

[CyrusP]

Mike, do you sell those?

 

[Eras Gone]

Wouldn't changing the screws make it more farby, if the intent is to de-farb?

 

[amerikanerfallschirmjager]

Not at all. Actually, most Colts sent to the Army were not set for the shoulder stock so they would look like what is the "civilian" model. Like these originals. Colt sent over 127thousand model 1860s to the US Government during the war. Almost 100thousand being 3 screws not 4.

"Except for the first approximately 100 guns that were made with the Navy-size grip, the standard early guns up to approximately serial number 33000 were made with four-screw frames. The 4th screw frame was not required by the Army. Of the approximate 33000, the Army bought 1000 guns with shoulder stocks (with stock "studs" or 4th screws that had longer heads)."
Charles Pate (he wrote the book on it)

To say a 3 screw is not correct, is just not correct.

 

[45D]

Mike, do you sell those?

No sir, but I'll do them for you if you send them to me. I've done a few for folks.

Mike

 

[amerikanerfallschirmjager]

Me likey much betterer now. Used a combo of Van's and LM barrel brown. Hard to tell in this picture.

 

[CyrusP]

Looking good. I just did some to my 1851 this morning too. Stripped cylinder with Birchwood Casey blue remover, stripped Italian glossy finish from grips. It’s a work in progress.