Pietta .36 navy questions

[makattack]

I just got my .36 navy from Cabelas Friday. It has a little creep to the trigger. How do I get this creep out of the trigger without lighting the trigger pull? Also, I have cci no. 11 mag caps and Remmington no.11 caps and both are too lose and fall of the nipples. What brand and size of cap work with this revolver. I'm thinking cci no.10'S. Is that correct?

 

[bavarialand]

Brass frame or Steel? as for the #11 caps, pinch them and they will stay on.

 

Creep, in a Colt type revolver, is controlled by the depth of engagement between the hammer and sear.

This design only has 6 moving parts. Study the relationship between the hammer and trigger/sear nose before you try to change anything. It is a simple but slightly delicate process, not a job for a crowbar and ball peen hammer.

The elimination of creep will involve shortening the full **** notch in the hammer and stoning the mating surfaces smooth.

 

[crockett]

Fixing the trigger creep can be a problem. You can stone the surfaces but this may hurt the heat treat. You can also install a pin or plug in the notch that moves the trigger a little farther out. Undercut the notch- key style and slide the plug in sideways, that way the plug can't break free, it is mechanically locked. Epoxy glue will hold it. It is a lot of work unless you want a really crisp trigger pull. If the milling is rough, maybe just a bit of polishing will work.

If you can't find caps that fit the nipples, get a new set of nipples that fit whatever type of caps you want to use.

 

[makattack]

Well, I went out and got some CCI no.10 caps today. They wouldn't even seat fully on the nipples. I guess I'm stuck with squeezing no. 11's for now. That kinda sucks as I was looking into geting a snail type capper to use. When I speek of creep, I'm talking of slack that is gritty before the trigger breaks.

 

[Rebel]

You can take the nipples out and after putting some tape or something around the threads to protect them chuck them in a drill and take a stone and turn them down some so the #10's fit right. Just put the drill in a vice to hold it, turn it on, and being sure to keep the stone at the same angle as the nipple take a bit off of them. But go slow. Grind a little and then stop and try a cap on it it till you get it right. Takes a little time but will help a lot.

 

[crockett]

Sounds like you want a really crisp trigger. I would think about having a gunsmith stone the area or if you are up to that type of work, using a jig as a guide, etc, you could do it yourself. The mechanism on the percussion, as far as the trigger, is really the same as the Single Action Army so most gunsmiths will be aware of the task at hand. If you look at the engagement on a modern Smith and Wesson, the contact is about the width of a hair, the worst risk of doing the job yourself is if you accidently put a slope on the engagement causing it to misfire.
If you decide on shortening the notch by putting in a plug, you need to dovetail it a bit, like the sight on a rifle, to hold it in place.

 

[scott k]

If you can find #10 Remington’s they might fit.
All the caps that I bought so far I find that the #10 Rem, Are a little bigger than the cci #10's and fit my gun nicer (better).
I do use a snail capper. I didn’t like the pinch approach to fixing the problem. :winking: It does work though.
Lehigh...

 

[arcticap]

An experienced revolver shooter said that one way to smooth out the trigger is to fully **** the hammer, and then exert some forward pressure on it while pulling the trigger. He said that doing this several times should smooth it out. However, since I've never done it, you do this at your own risk. (But he is experienced. :grin: )
A little moly paste or grease might also help to smooth it out until it breaks in.

 

[Sham66]

Howdy!

The #10 Remmingtons work on my Pietta's without any trouble. CCI #10's will not fit. Also, I replaced the stock nipples with Ampco Bronze from Track of the Wolf.

James

 

[Smokin6Gun]

If you have some CCI #10's try either hammer seating them(putting a cap on each cone first)place hammer on cap point down range and push the cap to seat it with your hammer. Or you use a wooden dowl in the same manner. Or just squeeze um or buy Ampco or Treso cones and replace yours.
I had to turn my cones down by hand on an 1851 Navy Uberti in order to hammer seat CCI#11's and now they fire reliably.

 

[makattack]

At this point I've now tried CCI 10's and 11's, Remington 10's and 11's. none will fit. All but the CCI 10's fit very loose. My local dealer told me to bring the gun in this week and he would turn the nipples for CCI no.10's for me for no cost. I'm 33 and been buying from him since I was about 13 (my dad went to high school with him). Guess he figures I've spent enough money in the last 10 years to own stock in his gunshop. How do I know what thread to buy if I replace the nipples? I have A Cabelas Pietta 1851 navy in .36 cal. It has a steel frame with brass grip and trigger guard.

 

[Sham66]

Howdy!

I have used this nipple from Track of the Wolf on a Palmetto Walker, Pietta 1860 Army, and a Pietta .36:

nipple, 6-.75mm metric thread, for replica revolvers, #11 cap, Ampco bronze $2.95

It says #11 cap, but the Remington #10's fit perfectly. CCI's are a bit of a squeeze.

However, I think it's great that you are friends with a gun guy that will tune the pistol for you.

James

 

[Smokin6Gun]

Maybe this chart will help some or you can buy cones.[url] http://www.thunder-ridge-muzzleloading.com/nip_x_ref.htm#asm[/url]

I would suggest buyin' set from BigIron.[url] http://www.bigironbarrels.com/forum/index.php[/url]
type big iron barrels(no spaces) in where it says censored.

 

[makattack]

Another problem has developed. I've had the revolver apart about a half a dosen times now and have had no problems. I decided to pinch on some no. 11 caps and at least put a few shots thru her. Shoots great no misfires or anything. Heres the problem, I go to take the gun apart and the cylinder won't come off. I mean I put it on half ****. Removed the wedge and barrel and the cylinder gets about half way off and sticks hard about half way up the barrel wedge slot on the arbor. What the heck have I done to my revolver?

 

[paulvallandigham]

That cylinder pin is soft metal, and I suspect that you have dinged the edge of the slot in it for the wedge. Use a soft mallet to hammer the cylinder back down in place, and then check that cylinder pin for raised burrs. Use a fine file to remove them and the cylinder should come off.

Otherwise, you may have found some way to bend the cylinder pin. OUCH! But, its obvious that the problem is in the cylinder pin, as that is what the cylinder rides on, and turns around.

 

[makattack]

Just a little update, After some head scratching, I figured out what's up with the cylinder not coming off. I was useing a rubber hammer to drive the wedge out, and the metal wedge was eating the hammer and not being drove out. So I guess what I'm saying is I hit the darn thing too hard and bent the arbor. I feel stupid. I've never had a gun so fragile of a design before. (If only thos Remingtons felt like thos dern Colts). I sent it back to Cabellas and they exchanged it no questions asked. Got my new one in today and it seemes a little nicer than the last one in finish and trigger pull. It has the same problem with the caps though. So I guess it's off the the smith I go to get the free fitting of the nipples (but not till I shoot up some of these other caps I wont use, my Remmie uses no. 11 CCI's).

 

[Mike Weber]

Those Pietta's from Cabella's can be a hit and miss proposition I own several Pietta's Remingtons as well as Colt 1851's and 1860's I've ended up having to hand tune all but one that came from the factory with a perfect action. The first thing that I do when I get a new percussion revolver is replace the nipples with either Treso or Ampco nipples I prefer the Treso's I use Remington #10 caps rather than CCI as I get much better reliability with them. Before I start tuning up a revolver I make sure that I've got some spare parts on hand such as trigger sear hammer and hand. VTI gunparts carries Spare parts for Pietta revolvers

 

[makattack]

Are the spare parts kits that Cabela's sells of good quality?

 

[Smokin6Gun]

Makattack, 9 out of 10 times a Rev will come from a company usually Piettas with the wedges driven all the way in. For what ever reason they ship them that way. When it's taken apart and cleane before shooting the wedge needs only to be pushed it so as the cylinder has say .006" between the frame and the cylinder. the wedge should have no need to me forced all the way in before firing. Wedge to or just thruu the other side of the frame when new it'll loosen up. When it is force all the way in with a mallet and fired the barrel get pushed forward under recoil / pressure and the wedge flares out the arbor slot and also dents or bends if you will the face of the wedge and burrs out the slot of the arbor. I have not heard of anyone bending an arbor by hitting a wedge with a rubber hammmer. I don't think you bent at if anything it may have happened if it was fired it the stat i mentioned.
Litely remove the burrs or raised material in the arbor and it should be ok.
Hoe this helps some.
SG