Pillow Ticking "Shot Cups"

[roundball]

Ah man, you're right. Put a cap in the brass end and you'd have it all in one package wouldn't ya! I'm wondering if I'd need a false muzzle to line it up for seating though. :grin:

OR....a 1725 break action / breech loading Flintlock with speedloaders...no joke...London museum:

 

[Twice boom]

What would be your objective by trying new material/”˜methods. Mod choke results out of Cylinder bore.? Just wondering.
Twice

 

[BrownBear]

Start saving those rabbit skins....process the hides with hair off and try that for patching.

Whoooeee! Now that would be some thin patching. Snowshoe hare have about the thinnest hide I've seen on a rabbit. I got sidetracked onto ticking in the first place, because even in my large sacks of leather scraps there was just so much variation in thickness. I've been meaning to get back and try the DeerTan from Tandy though. It's pretty uniform and thick enough, but almost as soft as chamois.

Thanks for the nudge.

 

[BrownBear]

What would be your objective by trying new material/”˜methods. Mod choke results out of Cylinder bore.? Just wondering.
Twice

Good insight. I've got insatiable curiosity, to the point that my mom always said I needed 8 more lives to go with my cat curiosity.

I don't think tighter patterns would do me all that much good in the ways I've always used a muzzeloading shotgun. But I love jump shooting ducks as well as decoying, and I've never even attempted it with my muzzleloaders due to their range limits with cylinder bores. I'd rather not go to a choked gun, modern or jugged, if I can avoid it. Tightening the cylinder pattern instead is something to look into.

At the very least, if I went to a Pedersoli or something with modern chokes, I think the ticking or whatever would let me get a "shot cup" past the constricted choke a lot easier than those plastic dealybobbers.

Truth? I think I'm using all this messing around as cover for buying another shotgun or two. :grin: Those little Pedersoli SxS 20's really appeal to me, and I'd be in heaven with a 410 SxS such as I see crop up for sale now and then. I have three 410 SxS cartridge guns that I've used on ptarmigan and snowshoe hare for over 30 years, and that's just about as much fun as I've ever had.

 

[August West]

I know I am not helping but I have one of those pedersoli 20s you mentioned. Mine is choked IC and Mod, it is a pure joy, if someone told me I would have to give it up or chop one of my hands off I would probably have a hard time deciding left or right. :wink: Chris

 

[Twice boom]

I though mod groups was going to be your next goal since you said you already getting IC and smooth outter edges . Din't count on you being a compolsive tinkerer. :grin:
Twice.

 

[rabjr]

I've been looking this gadgit over and it seems to me, be it made of wood or metal, this could be made in two pieces. I'm thinking instead of a taper, just having a lip that stops at the muzzle. The top cup could be made to screw into the extention that enters the barrel. The advantage to this, one could make several differant size "cups" that could be screwed onto the extention that held differant charge weights. That would be a big advantage when going after differant game.

I realized I have a table top small wood lathe I got several years ago and have yet to take out of the box. :haha: Not sure when I can get to it but this is definately a project for it. :hmm:

 

[roundball]

Cottage industry...

 

[dbutch]

BB like your cool tool!...Noticed the bunching of the cloth patch at the muzzle...I have found if you cut the patching in a rectangle the seams butt together in the muzzle with no over lap..The patch was well lubed like yours and clung to the inside of the barrels. Not sure if it would change the pattern much? My testing was to reduce bore leading and it worked..Sounds like your having fun with this...Good luck....Dan

 

[Leon/Iowa]

I like your idea and will be copying it. This sure beats making shot cups out of material and trying to keep them rolled up. I used old blue jeans for shot cups and they really improved the pattern out of my .62 flint, cylinder bore. That turkey last spring, never knew what hit him. Thanks BrownBear
Leon

 

[Short Arm]

Enjoyed the post,Have a ? What was the powder weight ?

 

[BrownBear]

Enjoyed the post,Have a ? What was the powder weight ?

Good question. For this load with the 1 3/8 oz of shot it's 90 grains of 2f Goex from the same measure.

That's about as hot as I ever plan to go, though I'm looking forward to playing with 1f some more. I'll probably bump the powder to 100 or 110 grains if I use 1f.

In days of yore with an identical shotgun I used 80 grains with 1 1/8 oz for almost everything. I even took some Emperor geese and white front with it, but that was back in the days of lead, as well as the days when we could take Emperors. Bring them 30 yards or closer, and it was goose dinner for sure, even with 1 1/8 oz. I'd drop down to 1 oz of # 7 1/2 and 70 grains of 3f for early ptarmigan, then up to 1 1/4 oz and 80 grains of 3f for windy days or late season.

 

[hoochiepapa]

Heck at the rate you're going, next thing you know you'll be thinking about inventing something really advanced like...oh, I don't know...maybe cylinder shaped, sealed on one end with brass, containing powder, wad, shot, and crimped on the other end.
:grin:

Ah man, you're right. Put a cap in the brass end and you'd have it all in one package wouldn't ya! I'm wondering if I'd need a false muzzle to line it up for seating though. :grin:

Long as I'm back on, one thing has been "ticking" around in the back of my mind. I'm curious if I could use something like a heavy soak in fabric starch or something to stiffen the ticking and slow it's opening, actually resulting in tighter patterns. Maybe even pre-form them before they dry and stiffen.... On second thought, nah. This is about as complicated as I want to be, even if the door is still open to which fabric will suit me best.

Brown bear;
I have some heavy ticking that I got at a fabric store that is very stiff, probably because of the sizing. It's almost like cardboard, I wonder if it would save you from the starch idea.

 

[Twice boom]

Heavy paper dipped in bees wax I think will work better than cloth. It might be closer to a modern shot cup with out having the plastic to worry about. The wax might eliminate the need for the goop of grease..
Just a thought.
Twice

 

[BrownBear]

Heavy paper dipped in bees wax I think will work better than cloth. It might be closer to a modern shot cup with out having the plastic to worry about. The wax might eliminate the need for the goop of grease..
Just a thought.
Twice

Try them side by side and let us know how they work out.

I've pretty much given up on paper because I really don't like to deal with it in the field. The fabric is so easy to use, if it gives me what I need I'm sure not going to mess with paper unless I need any better performance. In my limited tests with plain paper, it's no better than fabric and a hassle to use.

 

[BrownBear]

Heck at the rate you're going, next thing you know you'll be thinking about inventing something really advanced like...oh, I don't know...maybe cylinder shaped, sealed on one end with brass, containing powder, wad, shot, and crimped on the other end.
:grin:

Ah man, you're right. Put a cap in the brass end and you'd have it all in one package wouldn't ya! I'm wondering if I'd need a false muzzle to line it up for seating though. :grin:

Long as I'm back on, one thing has been "ticking" around in the back of my mind. I'm curious if I could use something like a heavy soak in fabric starch or something to stiffen the ticking and slow it's opening, actually resulting in tighter patterns. Maybe even pre-form them before they dry and stiffen.... On second thought, nah. This is about as complicated as I want to be, even if the door is still open to which fabric will suit me best.

Brown bear;
I have some heavy ticking that I got at a fabric store that is very stiff, probably because of the sizing. It's almost like cardboard, I wonder if it would save you from the starch idea.

Hmmph. :hmm:

I hadn't thought of that. I always wash the sizing out because I don't like the way it works with lube, but that might be an issue with starched fabric, too. Doesn't make sense to wash out the sizing, then add the starch back does it?

I need to talk to my wife more about fabrics because she's the lifetime sewer. I can't help feeling like there's something out there that's even better than ticking.

 

[rabjr]

Dammit! I wanna play! :shake: Got rid of the nurses and put a sneak on to dig that mini lathe up. Apperantly I took out the manual to read when I got it and no telling where the hell that is now. Have a bunch of parts here I have no clue whats what and where they go. :haha: So unless I can figure that all out I ain't gettin covered in wood chips any time soon...

 

[rabjr]

Well I guess I got it workin somewhat right. :haha: The wood is turning and the gouges are taking wood off. Infact I'm probably in trouble as I'm wearing most of a block of cherry atm and theres no hiding that fact. :haha:

 

[BrownBear]

Infact I'm probably in trouble as I'm wearing most of a block of cherry atm and theres no hiding that fact. :haha:

Uh-oh!!! :shocked2:

Glad it's working well, even though you might get cut off pretty quick.

Why not tell your tenders it's a new skin therapy? And hair therapy. And nose therapy. Organic underarm deodorant? The latest in home decore?

Uh-oh.... :rotf:

 

[Joel/Calgary]

Heavy paper dipped in bees wax I think will work better than cloth. It might be closer to a modern shot cup with out having the plastic to worry about. The wax might eliminate the need for the goop of grease..
Just a thought.
Twice

I'll be interested in your results, too. Back when I was investigating different suggestions for shot protection, I tried a few untreated heavy-paper circles folded up as symmetrically as I could on my shot-cup-starter, but the patterns were oblong, as if the paper was not opening evenly & consistently. I keep coming back to the 2-petal "Alcan shot protector" type of shotcup, made of heavy paper or light card stock, as perfectly reliable and the most convenient to load.

Regards,
Joel