Planning my first flintlock build

[M Cochran]

You're probably right, I probably don't need all the tools mentioned. I was just pointing out some of the tools I do have. Most of the time in all my projects I use power tools to get close then finish with hand tools. I've seen to many projects ruined by someone that didn't know when to stop with power tools and powered their project to the scrap bin or the burn pile.

I'm still doing my homework. I'm still reading and looking at pictures showing completed builds. Truth is I don't have a clue what style I'll go for other than one of the southern varieties. Of course since I haven't bought anything I still have plenty of time to figure that out.

 

[Col. Batguano]

The number of different schools and styles out there is quite daunting isn't it? If you can't see them in the flesh, and shoulder them, the next best thing for you to do is start with a list of characteristics that you feel are important in this particular gun.

Number one on the list ought to be intended purpose. For example; If you're planning on using it primarily for big game hunting in thick woods that is a much different primary purpose than a dedicated unlimited restriction target gun that will never see the field. Slow fire paper punching stocks can look much different than those intended for quick shooting at a charging rhino.

 

[M Cochran]

If I manage to follow through with this build it'll be a deer rifle. Where I'm at we don't have boar or bear unless I travel a couple hours just to hunt it and I don't travel for more than an hour in any direction and that's only if I have to. I doubt I'll be after any of the wildcats around here either.

On another note I have acquired a pistol and a rifle barrel both .45 in the last week. The pistol barrel isn't marked and is in new kit for with a layer of rust from sitting for a while. The rifle barrel is in rougher condition with some pitting on the outside and I'm not sure if it'll be salvageable. It is a Tompson Center Hawkins barrel. I'm hoping I'll find time before the end of the month to clean the rust off and out of both barrels and find myself a suitable piece of wood for the stocks. Once I manage that I'll start inletting the pistol barrel and go from there.

 

[Stringbean]

I think you can do it just fine. If you have learned the english language, understand the US tax laws, and can tie your own shoes then you have more than enough smarts to build a flintlock. Beware: one more is never enough,
String

 

[Col. Batguano]

Ok that tells me it needs to be of a legal caliber for deer. In most states, that's 40 caliber or larger, but most people opt for something bigger than that, like 45+. If you hunt by walking in dense woods, you'll probably want a 40" or shorter barrel. If you hunt from a stationary position, like up in a tree, you might be able to do with a longer one. If you're going to be gentle with it, then some of the more slender LR's would be ok. If you're going to be harder on it, then you may want a more robust style. For slower deliberate shooting, a more hooked butt plate is fine. For faster shots, then a more shotgun shaped butt.

See where I was going with this? The intended purpose and usage often controls what options are best for what you have in mind.

 

[Chowmif16]

If the T/C Hawken barrel turns out to be okay, and you plan to use that for your build, it will somewhat limit you in the style of rifle you can plausibly build with it.

IIRC, the T/C Hawken barrel is about 32 'ish inches long. Oops, googled, and Midway has one for sale that has a 28" barrel. Either way, 32 or 28 is way short for most, if not all, rifles in the flint period. You might find a german Jaeger rifle that short, or Chamber's has a English sporting rifle with a 31" barrel. Both of those are likely to be swamped, and the T/C isn't.
The point is, that if you care about making a gun that is actually historically correct, or even near to it, you might struggle to find a suitable flintlock to copy with that barrel.
If you don't care whether it fits a historical genre, then go to it.
I have a T/C Hawken percussion gun that I built in 1993, and it's a great gun. When I finished it, it was the first muzzleloader I ever held in my hands. I'll never get rid of it.
It isn't anywhere near a Hawken, but it shoots great, and is very comfortable and easy to shoot. If that's all you want, then use that barrel and build a rifle around it.

The reason that I and others here are nudging you towards research and a slower approach is that most of us have built or owned rifles that while functional, fit no historical category. And as we learn as builders, we look back and cannot but see the flaws and wish that we had learned more first.

Not trying to sit on the soap-box, just wishing I had done things differently and see an opportunity to push someone else down the path I took so long to take.

 

[M Cochran]

I appreciate all the comments and help so far in trying to point me in the right direction. I do have to say this build is not for any kind of historical accuracy. Instead it's about challenging myself and giving another means to provide food for my family. I have a good bolt action but I want something that requires a little more skill. I'm not a big fan of things being too easy for me, I thrive on challenges.

 

[Billnpatti]

Okay, I know your mind is made up and you know what you want to do. So, let me recommend two books for you to carefully read before you start. The Gunsmith of Grenville County by Peter Alexander and Recreating the American Longrifle. They will be the foundation of your undertaking and , as a carpenter, you know the importance of having a good foundation. You are going to invest a significant amount of money in buying good parts. A good breached barrel will cost a minimum of $150 and possibly more. A good piece of wood, a stock blank, from which to make a stock will also cost you anywhere from a bit over $75 to over $120. The other parts you plan to make yourself and can be made from less expensive stock. But, you will have over $500 as a bare minimum just in parts.

I know you want to build it yourself but I highly suggest starting with a Chambers or TVM kit to get your feet wet. Once you have completed one of those kits, you will have an idea of what you are facing in building a rifle from scratch. Besides, if you do a good job on your kit, you can sell it for more than you paid for it and use the proceeds to finance building one from scratch. Just something for you to consider. :thumbsup:
http://www.longrifles-pr.com/stockscomponents.shtml
http://www.flintlocks.com/pdf/pricesheet.pdf
http://www.tennesseevalleymuzzleloading.com/

 

[Billnpatti]

If you buy a TVM kit for $750, use it to learn the craft, do a good job and sell it for around $1400. Nice profit, a chance to learn rifle building and then decide if you are ready for the big jump into starting from scratch.
http://www.tennesseevalleymuzzleloading.com/pricing-services

And here is a finished rifle that sells for $1400 showing what you can do:
http://www.tennesseevalleymuzzleloading.com/showroom

 

[rushlake1]

good luck and .......do post on your progress..

 

[Vaino]

The first thing I would do if/n I was you would be to buy and study one of the "how to" books and then research just what you want to build after studying some reference books that could introduce you to the various styles of MLers. Evidently you don't know because you're buying used parts as you find them on the Internet.

The bbl is "the rifle" and a new, properly chosen bbl determines the style of MLer.

I don't think you do know what's entailed in building a MLer...the tools req'd, the procedure for building and the work involved....again buy a good building reference book.

I started building MLers in 1976 after reading and studying every "how to" book that was available. Also was a journeyman tool and diemaker which gave me an over abundance of confidence which was soon humbled. But, during the first attempt of building a LR, the stock ended up in my wood burning stove. But eventually things improved and have since built many MLers.

So...my advice.....study some "how to" books and other references to determine what you want to build before starting....going w/o a "game plan" isn't the way to go. Sounds like you won't heed any of the advice given in response to your post, but good luck anyways......Fred