powder help

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

trent

In Rembrance
Joined
Apr 3, 2008
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
im thinking of switching from double f powder to triple f powder on my 50 cal. do i need to resite my gun or should it fire the same.little help please
 
Whats your charge now of 2F? Just drop back 10 grains when you try 3F and you should be pretty close to the same place on target.
 
will three f fire hotter? and whats the advantage to shooting 3f over 2f? thanks
 
The same amount of 3F vs 2F, yes 3F will be a hotter load, thats why you should drop back 10 grains when you switch powders.
 
thank u, but what is the reason to switch to 3f my thought is its more likekly to fire.
 
I don't think it's more likely to fire over 2F. But you may find like most of us, you use less 3F than you do 2F to achieve the same thing, so theres a saving in powder. I know my guns accuracy wise seem to prefer 3F over 2F.
 
what i seem to do is load 2f, and to be safe i remove the nipple put a pinch of 3f in, put nipple back on. I do that becauce ive had just the cap go off. thats why i thought it would make more since to shoot 3f instead.
 
What you just described, I used to do the exact same thing when I used percussion guns for hunting. Just did it to take no chances of a weak cap or damp channel leading into the main charge.
 
Trent: If you use an OP wad between the powder and your PRB, there is very little difference in the residue produced by both FFg and FFFg powders. FFg is a hotter powder, so you are looking at higher chamber pressures, a sharper " crack", and about 10% more velocity for the same amount of powder.

Using the OP wad seems to increase the resistance in the barrel for both powders, but has the greatest affect on the FFg, when comparing performance with and without the OP wad, and the same charge of powder. I find the OP wad is even more helpful in my flintlock, leaving me much less residue, and me unable to tell the difference between the size of the residue from FFg and FFFg powders.

I recommend using FFFg in percussion guns, because you can compact FFFg powder better, and compacted powder gives a smaller SDV out of a percussion gun.

In Flinters, I recommend using FFg powder. The larger granules are less likely to blow out the vent hole when the charge is loaded; you will get better velocity and a lower SDV using FFg that is NOT COMPACTED in a flintlock, and ignition of the main charge is aided by the presense of more air between the granule. With the larger size Granule, FFg gets the nod over the FFFg powder size.

When loading a flinter, turn the rifle to one side so that the powder slides down the inside of the barrel. That way the powder does not compact from the drop. When you load the OP wad, just push it down firmly on the powder. Then, load the patch round ball so it just touches the OP wad. Don't try to compress the PRB, OP Wad, and powder.

When loading a percussion gun, you WANT the powder to drop free of the sides of the barrel to the bottom. The drop helps to compact the powder better than all the pressure you can put on the ramrod after the powder is down there. That long barrel becomes its own " Drop Tube" when held vertically while pouring down the powder charge. USE IT! Then run the OP wad down onto the powder, again, just firmly, The powder will already be compacted as much as it can. Then load the PRB down firmly against the OP wad. Don't distort the round shape of that ball by leaning on the RR, or, God Forbid, " Bouncing the ramrod off the lead ball.

If you screen your FFg powder to get rid of clinkers( large lumps of carbon, or lumps of powder) and remove the " fines", which burn much faster, and play hobs with your SDV, you will find that you get consistently good velocity, and better groups shooting that FFg powder in your flinters. Only when you get down to the small caliber bores will FFFg powder work better in a flinter than FFg, provided it is not compacted. In a percussion gun, in any caliber, I have to give the nod to FFFg powder, for the reasons stated above.

This, BTW, was a very hard, and long, lesson for me to learn as I switched from shooting a percussion rifle, to shooting flintlocks. I didn't want to believe what my eyes were telling me, and it took using a chronograph to convince me I was "wrong". Then, just to verify my results, I asked my brother to use his chronograph and his gun to check my findings. We had one of those, " I'll be one-eyed mule" kind of laughs over that. :blah: :hmm: :surrender: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
FFg is a hotter powder, so you are looking at higher chamber pressures, a sharper " crack", and about 10% more velocity for the same amount of powder.

Way to really confuse him Paul, that should be FFFg not FFg.
 
My experience has been that 3F is fast, clean, and accurate in several calibers and gauges.

Since 3F is a smaller granulation size than 2F it burns faster, which means that the pressure in the bore will spike up a little faster than 2F.

So to keep pressures in the same general ball park, there is a rule of thumb that whatever 2F load data you might use, you can reduce the amount of 3f by 10-15%.
( ie: if you were going to use 100grns 2F, just use 90 or even 85grns 3F )
 
thank u every one for your response, now im so confused im going to grab my long bow and go hunting ha ha.it is hunting season in mn and im not sure i should switch till after the gun season is over. should i stick to the same thing if been doing, 2f powder.
 
Well from your posts I gather your trying to find a solution to possible misfires and having to dribble 3F under the nipple? Even if you do switch, I'm not so sure you'll end your problem. You may find more powder from the main charge does enter that channel under the nipple than 2F does or you may not. In a hunting situation I still would take the nipple off and make sure there was powder under it. That being the case it don't matter what powder your using.
 
After quickly skimming the above posts --- A positive I have with 3F is ----I only have to buy one powder to shoot and prime with----NO MORE 4F!
 
3F will ignite a little easier, but what ever grade you use dump in the powder then turn the rifle onto the lock side and whack the side opposite lock couple times with palm of yer hand. this jars powder grains into the flash channel in the drum. then load the wad and/or PRB.
works for me.
 
Back
Top