I have a Traditions Kentucky Rifle kit flintlock. I had lots of 2F before for another gun, so that's what I'm using for both main and prime. Goes off reliably.
It is historically correct to prime with the same powder as your main charge, been working for hundreds of years.
That said, 4f not only works for priming, but makes a dandy main charge load as well, burning cleaner with more energy and more shots per pound.
How much 4f do you use as a main charge?
Is there some conversation formula?
Not on yer nelly.....but I long for the day I see a can of 4f, I will snap it up and use it as a main charge in all my muzzleloaders because it would say on can otherwise!Come on Brit might as well jump in the fire.
I always use 3f for both, never had any ignition problems. If i use a small pistol lock then maybe 4f, also 4 f is an uncoated powder, you will see that 4 f has a dull color, 3f and larger have a shiny finish. That is why 4f is more susceptible to moisture.The other day at the range I was getting a lot of flash in the pans. It was getting late in a long day at the range and I was tired.
I normally prime with 4F, but my priming measure was out, so I just uest the 3F that is my main charge.
I noticed more sure ignition.
Is this a thing or just a coincidence?
I didn't change anything else about my loading or cleaning procedure, so I don't think that was what caused the change.
Thoughts on priming with 3F vs 4F?
(It is a new Traditions Flintlock, with whatever touchhole size it comes with stock)
main charge load in what weapons?It is historically correct to prime with the same powder as your main charge, been working for hundreds of years.
That said, 4f not only works for priming, but makes a dandy main charge load as well, burning cleaner with more energy and more shots per pound.
Enter your email address to join: