Ok, I have removed the clean out screw on my older 54 Renegade, but have carefully cleaned it and greased it before putting it back on, but I noticed my newer Rene-boar doesn't have the screw at all, so I'll just leave it alone from now on. Would a small dab of Locktite blue be okay on the threads of the clean out screw?
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Problem getting spark thru to powder... Help!
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The opposite side of the lock is only side that has a clean-out screw.
There is no drum on the Crockett rifle.
The clean-out screw is obscured by the stock. That’s why when the clean-out screw blew out, it took part of the stock with it.
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Loc-Tite can’t hurt. However, as long as you got it good and tight, it will become very difficult to remove in a fairly short amount of time on its own just by shooting the rifle.
Your previous post with high lighted instructions mentions a bolster clean out screw. Guess that confused me.
Doesn't heat degrade blue Loctite's hold?
I doubt the heat is sustained long enough to weaken the Locktite
I understand, it can be confusing.
rafterob
62 Cal.
My variable mileage; When I clean my CVA/Traditions rifles I submerge the breech end in a bucket of warm soapy water. I pump water in and out with my range rod and patched jag. Then I remove the nipple and clean out screw. They come out easily after the water soak. I simply oil them when reinstalling. I have not experienced thread wear or blow out of either part in the 20 years I have been shooting them.
longcruise
70 Cal.
I guess I just can't suppress my contrarian nature! 
Threads can be worn out by improperly screwing things in and out. How hard is it to do carefully and correctly? I always remove the nipple to clean and always remove any "clean out screws" as well. They both get antisieze when put back together. The only barrels I own that have corroded in place "clean out screws" are a couple that I acquired used. So does that corrosion continue? Will they eventually blow out due to corrosion? I'm not sure. But I am sure that the ones that I remove, clean and lube aren't going anywhere.
And, "yes", I know how they got there and why. I know they aren't there to aid in cleaning but they are there and IMO need to carefully removed and the threads kept clean just as is needed with a nipple.
Threads can be worn out by improperly screwing things in and out. How hard is it to do carefully and correctly? I always remove the nipple to clean and always remove any "clean out screws" as well. They both get antisieze when put back together. The only barrels I own that have corroded in place "clean out screws" are a couple that I acquired used. So does that corrosion continue? Will they eventually blow out due to corrosion? I'm not sure. But I am sure that the ones that I remove, clean and lube aren't going anywhere.
And, "yes", I know how they got there and why. I know they aren't there to aid in cleaning but they are there and IMO need to carefully removed and the threads kept clean just as is needed with a nipple.
I concur. Also, you would want to use red Loc Tite IF you want that screw to stay in and not be removed again.
It really doesn’t matter because after firing that rifle for a while, that screw is not coming back out.
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Going off of the little bit of information given in that Crockett rifle blow out post, it’s to my belief that’s exactly what happened. The threads got boogered up. This is evidence by the owner stating that he had to keep tightening the clean-out screw. That screw was trying to tell him something.I guess I just can't suppress my contrarian nature!
Threads can be worn out by improperly screwing things in and out. How hard is it to do carefully and correctly? I always remove the nipple to clean and always remove any "clean out screws" as well. They both get antisieze when put back together. The only barrels I own that have corroded in place "clean out screws" are a couple that I acquired used. So does that corrosion continue? Will they eventually blow out due to corrosion? I'm not sure. But I am sure that the ones that I remove, clean and lube aren't going anywhere.
And, "yes", I know how they got there and why. I know they aren't there to aid in cleaning but they are there and IMO need to carefully removed and the threads kept clean just as is needed with a nipple.
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longcruise
70 Cal.
I wouldn't totally discount the possibility of a manufacturing defect.
Certainly will, waiting on delivery. Spending time buffing the barrel. Expectations are great.
True, but either way, considering that screw kept coming loose and he had to keep retightening it, it was trying to tell him something.
DANGER Will ROBINSON!!
longcruise
70 Cal.
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Forget the so called "clean out screw"; it ain't one.
.1 Remove and discard the nipple.
2. Use a bristled pipe cleaner to clear the flame channel.
3. Install a new nipple.
4. After loading the powder hold he rifle lock side down and give the stock a couple smacks to allow powder to enter the patent breech and bolster.
About once a year i clear the patent breech using a drill bit attached to a small rod.
The point is there will be a time when you need to take the screw out. I do not remove mine when doing normal cleaning, I just remove the nipple. But why let it corrode in?
I would never put spark plugs in an engine without anti seize either, being a mechanic for my early years, I have seen the results of dry plugs. It is not easy to put in Heli Coils.
Seems a top complaint is "I broke my nipple wrench or I messed up a screw slot or broke a screw."
I would never put spark plugs in an engine without anti seize either, being a mechanic for my early years, I have seen the results of dry plugs. It is not easy to put in Heli Coils.
Seems a top complaint is "I broke my nipple wrench or I messed up a screw slot or broke a screw."
No, @45man, there may come a time where you want to take that "clean out" screw out, but there is no need to ever take the screw out. I have several drums that do not have a "clean out" screw. I have several snail ed breech plugs that do not have a "clean out' screw and Thompson Center redesigned their breech plug to eliminate the "cleanout" screw. Just because it's there and it was given a name, it doesn't have to be removed.
I don't know why someone hasn't noticed but the screw everyone is calling the "clean out" screw does not look like the original one to me and the one that is in there is a replacement. I would look very carefully with a bright light down the nipple hole to make sure it is not protruding to interfere with the seating of the new nipple. By the way the screw slot is boogered up the previous owner may have replaced it with the wrong thread.
Edit: I have a thread that deals with this problem, the pictures were removed and I add them at the end.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/cva-50-hawken-nipple-blow-out.96611/
Edit: I have a thread that deals with this problem, the pictures were removed and I add them at the end.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/cva-50-hawken-nipple-blow-out.96611/
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