SR James...Do yourself a favor and call Joe Woods and order his tool. Takes a little time but it's easy and flawless. What I see in your pic I would not consider a "cone". As others have mentioned mine go down at least 1.5 inches. I cone mine a little more than Joe recommends in his instructions. I stop when I can push a PRB below the muzzle with just a little pressure from my finger. You have plenty of meat there to use Joe's tool and cut a proper cone.
Problem with Coned barrel
- Thread starter SR James
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Ok gang. Think this will work? I cut back to just beyond where the rifling was intact, and recrowned. Cut the nosecap off at the front, then resoldered the endcap onto the new end. That way the chevron design of the base of the nosecap remained intact. Will try to get to the range tomorrow to try it. I'll post my results.
I see sharp edges at each intersection of the bore, the bottom and the side of each rifling groove where it meets the countersink of the crown.
These will cut the cloth patch while your loading a patched ball and the barrel will not shoot accurately.
There should not be any sharp edges in this area.
To fix this use some 220 or 320 grit silicone carbide wet/dry sandpaper and the end of your thumb or finger to press the sandpaper down into the mouth of the bore.
While rotating your thumb or finger back and forth, rotate the barrel slowly.
Reposition the paper often while doing this as the paper wears out quite rapidly.
This process will round off all of the sharp edges at the crown leaving surfaces that will not cut the patch.
These will cut the cloth patch while your loading a patched ball and the barrel will not shoot accurately.
There should not be any sharp edges in this area.
To fix this use some 220 or 320 grit silicone carbide wet/dry sandpaper and the end of your thumb or finger to press the sandpaper down into the mouth of the bore.
While rotating your thumb or finger back and forth, rotate the barrel slowly.
Reposition the paper often while doing this as the paper wears out quite rapidly.
This process will round off all of the sharp edges at the crown leaving surfaces that will not cut the patch.
ApprenticeBuilder
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Excellent Job !!!!!!!!!
You may have some issues with patch cutting as was suggested but this could be resolved with a brush an some 0000 steel wool.
:hatsoff:
You may have some issues with patch cutting as was suggested but this could be resolved with a brush an some 0000 steel wool.
:hatsoff:
After cutting the crown, I pulled the breechplug (figured I might as well check that end too, especially since Green Mtn. barrels don't come with a fitted plug. Everything was ok.) I then used a short starter to start a .400 ball with a .018 patch, a tight combination. It was definitely tight to start. Pushed it all the way through with the ramrod and checked the patch. It was not cut. But I agree the lands look a little sharp, so I'll lightly break those edges.
Oops. After your comments, I re-checked the patch out in the daylight, held it up to the sky (did the work last night in the shop). Sure enough, the patch shows several cuts. So more smoothing is very much in order. Thanks guys. Saved me what would no doubt have been a frustrating range trip.
SR James said:
I know you are determined to make it right and you are to be commended for what you have done so far. But, comes a time to stop fussin' around and start shooting. Those sharp edges are not unusual for a new barrel. Git out of the shop and start shooting. That barrel will fine tune itself befor you know it. :thumbsup:
Well done Sir, :thumbsup:
Hope she hits the mark,
Keep us posted as too the outcome
Hope she hits the mark,
Keep us posted as too the outcome
zimmerstutzen
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Remember the funny rounded crown on the Jonathan Browning rifles. It almost looks like somebody tried to copy that for the portion inside the bore..
Gentlemen, we may be on to something!
Both targets shot after cutting and crowning, benched at 50m. Target grid is 1".Both loads were 45gr Goex 3Fg, .018 ticking patch, Hoppe's #9+ lube. The only difference is the ball. Target 1 is with a .400 cast RB, Target 2 is with...#1 buck! Same load with the .395 Hornady was ok but not nearly so good.
I think our little operation was a success given it wouldn't shoot inside 6" a few days ago.
Both targets shot after cutting and crowning, benched at 50m. Target grid is 1".Both loads were 45gr Goex 3Fg, .018 ticking patch, Hoppe's #9+ lube. The only difference is the ball. Target 1 is with a .400 cast RB, Target 2 is with...#1 buck! Same load with the .395 Hornady was ok but not nearly so good.
I think our little operation was a success given it wouldn't shoot inside 6" a few days ago.
Impressive change, great shooting and BTW GREAT job on the barrel crown!
Glad it worked out for you! :thumbsup:
Robby
Robby
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Looks like you have fixed your problem. I've never been a fan of coned barrels. There was a very good article in Muzzleloader magazine couple years ago regarding coned barrels. In the end with most loads the rifle shot worse.
Another forum I belong to, those with crowning experience will claim differently. And, some of those are experienced, highly regarded bp builders and smiths.
Me? I dunno :idunno: and I ain't gonna mess.
zimmerstutzen
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Highly regarded builders etc. don't mean crap to me unless they are also top shooters at Friendship.
Coning has a purpose for ease of reloading in the hunting woods. (Where minute of deer is all that counts.) Until I see a coned barrel compete off a bench against an identical non-coned barrel I simply suspect those folks are painting "accuracy" with a ten foot wide brush.
Accuracy for most is relative. For the guy former national champion 1,000 yd shooter that lives a few miles down the road, accuracy means one thing. For my brother who is extremely happy to shoot a 4 inch group at 100 with his 30 year old TC Hawken, accuracy is another. For a light bench muzzleloader shooter, a 1 inch 5 shot group at 100 yds, is getting there. I have never seen a serious target shooter use a coned barrel for ultra accuracy.
Coning has a purpose for ease of reloading in the hunting woods. (Where minute of deer is all that counts.) Until I see a coned barrel compete off a bench against an identical non-coned barrel I simply suspect those folks are painting "accuracy" with a ten foot wide brush.
Accuracy for most is relative. For the guy former national champion 1,000 yd shooter that lives a few miles down the road, accuracy means one thing. For my brother who is extremely happy to shoot a 4 inch group at 100 with his 30 year old TC Hawken, accuracy is another. For a light bench muzzleloader shooter, a 1 inch 5 shot group at 100 yds, is getting there. I have never seen a serious target shooter use a coned barrel for ultra accuracy.
ApprenticeBuilder
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zimmerstutzen said:
Very well said
:thumbsup:
As one who used to live near Friendship and began his ml experiences at the range being tutored by the greatest, I consider that place near sacred when it comes to our avocation. And, I have great respect for those who win consistently there. I never placed in an NMLRA championship match although my wife and son have.
Nevertheless, a shooter/builder does not have to attend Friendship to have excellent building or shooting skills. Especially these days when the cost of travel keeps so many away.
Your broad brush of condemnation, and choice of non-family friendly words, is unfortunate and certainly not an accurate guage for anything. In my opinion, that view disqualifies your opinions from having any value.
Nevertheless, a shooter/builder does not have to attend Friendship to have excellent building or shooting skills. Especially these days when the cost of travel keeps so many away.
Your broad brush of condemnation, and choice of non-family friendly words, is unfortunate and certainly not an accurate guage for anything. In my opinion, that view disqualifies your opinions from having any value.
