I'm soon going to be to the point of wanting to proof/test a 12ga double muzzle loading shotgun. I intend to put it in an old tire and shoot it from afar with a string. How should I proceed? I've seen vids, like the one from colonial Williamsburg where rifles were tested-proofed this way. I believe they were usually loaded with two or three times the load that would normally be recommended for those first shots. How much powder would be a good test for the smoothbore? Should I load with just powder and a over powder card and maybe a tight wad over that, with no shot?
Proof/testing shotgun barrel(s)
- Thread starter tom in nc
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not using a ball or shot load will just make it a pop gun . need the weight to build pressure.
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Never shoot a proof load with the barrel in the stock , it will damage the stock . Barrel must be secured well . Many different opinions on proof loads . 200 gr. of powder and two ball is a common proof load I use . A proof test with no projectile in the barrel is useless ... If your not sure about all this you need to have Someone else do it for you ....be safe
Not one bit ... simple really. Tie down well to a hardwood block or 2x6 or 2x8, have a large hardwood block or other back against the breech, lock down with whatever weight to hold it against the ground, aim at a safe backstop and fire away using cannon fuse in the touch hole to fire it off.
Light it and take cover ... repeat on 2nd barrel - DONE! FWIW my BP range used to have an old tire lain on the ground and someone cut a 1-1/2" in one tread so the barrel-only could be inserted through that hole where then a block of oak was between the breech end and the other inside of the tire wall.
When I've proofed some barrels, 'for me', it was a 2 roundball load and 2X the largest powdah charge I was personally going to use. But I also took extensive measurements to the 0.0001" (only as I have ten-1000ths of an inch resolution capable instruments), every inch going up the breech for 1', then every 2 to 3" as I futher progressed down the barrel to the muzzle. No changes ...
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Yes if you don't take measurements before and after all you've done is burn powder and make noise.
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Oh ok . Proof it in the stock then . Be sure and take before and after pictures .
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I think Birmingham proof doubles in a jury rig stock mostly I got proofed singles never saw any but if it was what's called immediate proof you just heard the bang the pre test got eyeball 'View' then after proof & washed out they 'viewed 'it again by eye any problem was noted .(Well trained eyes)And they put all the rubbish underneath but might shew the mark visible if wanted Its not 'Rubbish' its what I call it ,The details date' Black powder' only stuff ect not seen on doubles or single's if you don't want it visible .London use jigs no flying into sand pretty pathetic they stamped their rubbish visible on the only rifle I sent them asking NOT to put the' Rubbish' visible .I was incensed & rang them up they said' Oh we have to do that' I said ''Brum don't its comeing off !'' "Oh you cant do that!". " Ime doing it, P off " and I did & put it through Brum once their strike had ended .London had blown the vent liner out but considered that of no matter !. little 45 r b rifle .As an aside Brum used to do so many Parker Hale Enfield's & 451s that the charge in cost was cheaper due to volume so Ide put my 451 & 58s in as that rate though meant for R Ball guns they stood so didn't need to pay extra to get the actual load it would get marked on it .I used to put a lot of' Got Up' Indian musket barrels they ALL stood proof despite the snearing contempt shewn by their detracters .
Regards Rudyard
Regards Rudyard
Not so, I clamp my barrels in a B&D Work mate with padding. Here is the only picture I have set up for testing an old Remington Rolling block, but you should get the idea of the setup. With smooth bores, I clamp just the barrels and set the charge off with cannon fuse and get behind my old jeep. On old cartridge guns a string from the trigger fires them the string is visible in the picture.
