Proof Testing

[PreserveFreedom]

I have heard a few stories about how proof testing has been performed. I have heard some say that you use double the max load and I have heard some say triple. I have also heard that such should be done with two PRB rammed down on top of the charge instead of one to increase pressure.

I am thinking double charge should be plenty, but am I right about two PRB or should I just use one?

 

If it's a commercial gun like the Lyman's, TC's, or the Italians, like the Cabela's there's no need, save the powder for range practice. The Indian made guns I might consider testing. The question is do you know what the max load is.

Bill

 

[PreserveFreedom]

Well it is one that I am building and it is not from a kit. All I have left to do on the barrel is install the front sight. I figure if I am going to proof test it, I might as well do it before I dump a bunch of labor into making a stock for it. I was thinking a max load of 100 grains FFg so I will probably proof test it with 200 grains. I guess the real question is if I should put one or two PRB down the tube before igniting the charge.

 

[necchi]

If it's this one; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...261507/post/1048154/hl//fromsearch/1/#1048154

I wouldn't shoot it.(period)

 

[ohio ramrod]

If you are going to proof the barrel make sure you have it secured safely in a "cushioned" manner. You don't want to hold it in your hands. And you don't want it against a solid object or else the stock (if the gun is assembled ) will break.Straw or hay bales make a good rest with heavy lumber outside. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[jerrywh]

Common practice is to proof test it twice in this manner. The first load is twice the max amount of powder [200grs] and one patched round ball. The second test is one normal charge and two patched round balls. The reason this is recomended is because it is the two most often mistakes made when loading a muzzle loader.
If this is a commercial made barrel made by a well known barrel maker you will have a hard time blowing it up no matter how much powder you put in it. A double charge with a double prb should never blow it up. What caliber is the gun?

 

[PreserveFreedom]

What caliber is the gun?

It's a .50 cal and the barrel was originally a CVA. I have done some work on the breech end though. I was going to proof it as just a barrel, using some cannon fuse through the flash hole to set it off. That way I can be behind some good cover when it goes boom.

 

[Jason Lewis]

what breech work did you do?

 

[jerrywh]

I can't make a judgement on the breech work but CVA barrels are very strong.

 

[Rifleman1776]

One story I read about Brown Besses was the builder of each musket had to double charge and put four balls over the charge. He then was required to shoot it from the shoulder. If it passed, it passed. If it didn't pass he never made another gun for the Crown. :shocked2:
Lotsa stories on proofing. In the old Dixie Gun Works catalog (maybe even current) they show a length of barrel plugged at both ends, filled with bp and ignited with a cannon fuse through a tiny hole. All the presssure escaped that little hole with no damage to the barrel. I don't care to try that.

 

[floyd1350]

i'm with you necchi

 

[sc45-70]

You might want to build something like this to fire the proof load.
With the barrel strapped to it your barrel won't be damaged by sliding across the ground.

I use a seperate pan to proof flint barrels.

Good luck
SC45-70

 

[dbutch]

If you must double ball load Be sure the top ball is seated on the bottom one..!...Can you say ringed barrel?..BTDT!....Best of luck

 

[PreserveFreedom]

I cut off the drum and installed a touch hole. If it passes my proof test, it will become a matchlock.

For those that think my work looks less than perfect...why do you think I am proof testing it???

 

[Jason Lewis]

what are the other two holes for? you're right, it looks a little rough.

 

[rabjr]

Personally I wouldn't waste my time with this. I would use this for a tomato plant stake and get myself a descent barrel.

 

[Swtodd]

If it passes proof, it passes proof. Hope your package arrives tomorrow.

steve

 

[PreserveFreedom]

Those two extra holes are threaded and they are how my flash pan bolts on.

Whether or not this barrel becomes scrap or a matchlock, proofing it will at least allow me to test my work. I will learn from this no matter which direction I take this project.

To all concerned, I can promise you that any testing I do will be done safely.

 

[Jason Lewis]

your flashpan bolts on? that's a new one for me, never heard of that before. whatever you do just be careful.

 

[crockett]

Well, not to state the obvious but the barrel itself ought to be okay, the issue is if the drum blows out or the two blind holes blow out.

I'd would do a several test firings. First with a PRB and normal load- see how that works. A heavy bullet causes higher internl pressure so instead of two PRB maybe a conical and normal charge. Then the PRB but with a double charge.

Dixie shows a gun in a spare tire- that would be a pretty good way to test.

There is also the issue of escaping gases. The barrel and drum may stay tight but put some leather or similar object in the path of any escaping gases- just to make sure you don't get a bad burn.

I would never throw out a barrel. You can always cut off the breech a couple of inches and re-thread in a new breech plug and try again. You can also use them for a couple of pistol barrels.

I, and a lot of other folks on this forum, are always looking for stock for future projects. Don't toss the barrel.

And....check out Dixie Gun Works and TOW, I think I recall breech plugs that have a patent breech/nipple type arrangement- not hooked but you are good to go with the new plug- in case you screw up.

Let us know what you did and how it worked. Good luck.