proper use of fillers in cylinder

[FishDFly]

Other than a savings on lead and powder why would one prefer a .36 over a .44 (or .45).??? I must admit I been thinking I need a .36 1851 (and had a 1858 once). But for hunting or protection is a .36 enough whoomph? For range cannot a .44/.45 be acurized as well as a .36?

Just asking, I have no thoughts??

They say there is not an inherent accuracy advantage between the .36 an .44 and when a person spends $1,000 on a pistol, 5 grains of powder is nothing.

There was a slot with the High Master targets at Friendship in September. After the awards I took them to study them.

The top winners are shooting either .32 or .36 in what whatever pistol they shoot.

Most have gone to small calibers as the folks are getting older and they are getting arthritis in their wrist and the small calibers are easier on their wrists. Cost for powder and lead is not the issue.

I read a lot about pistol line shooting and have learned a lot.

I have be come a fan of the .40 in percussion line matches and drifting to the .36 for revolvers.

What I have learned the most about, is how to grip the pistol to make it shoot where you want the ball to go.

At the TMLRA shoot, I was shooting to right consistently. I went to my truck and looked in my range box and there was the answer from a chart in the lid.

Changed my grip and went to 9's and 10's.

Pistols and smooth bore's are the hardest to master.

 

[FishDFly]

Yep.

 

[azmntman]

M.D./Richard...Thanks, makes since. Oh that I had time to shoot enough to worry about that! Someday...

 

[Grumpa]

Someday...

Make the time now. I've been retired over 12 years, and I have less time to shoot now than when I was working :hmm:

Have plans to take a newbie out tomorrow or Wednesday, to shoot his Highland flint pistol for the first time. (I don't think he's ever shot anything else, either.) I figure about 200 grains of Ffg behind a .58 Minie ball :grin: Just kidding.

But that will be the first I've got out to the range all year.

 

[FishDFly]

"Make the time now. I've been retired over 12 years, and I have less time to shoot now than when I was working."

Yep and do not know, but I do know why.

 

[Cpl. Ashencheeks]

Somehow it seems this conversation changed from use of fillers to preventing chain fires.

An earlier question asked the order that powder and filler should go in. I would like to know if anyone uses the order of powder, card or wad, filler and then projectile.

I have never used fillers before, but I like the idea of getting the projectile closer to the forcing cone of the barrel for better consistency.

I have been thinking of using a mustard container with a cone for keeping cereal type fillers in.

For most of my cap & ball shooting I have only used lubed wads over the powder and make sure cylinder mouth is clean of powder residue before seating a round ball that will shave a ring.

I have not used the new grease buttons over the projectile yet but this seems like a good safety measure to seal the front end completely. Instead I use a small amount of spit wad (old product) as an over ball grease around the outside edges of each seated ball or conical.

Proper fitting nipples and cap savers around them at the rear end of cylinder seal the back of the cylinder. This completely seals each cylinder chamber until they are fired.

I have never suffered from a chain fire, but that doesn't mean I don't think they could happen.

 

[Cpl. Ashencheeks]

Correction to above post concerning that old product.

It is called Spit Ball and was made specifically as an over the ball lube for cap & ball revolvers.

If anyone remembers this stuff it has a picture of a cartoon hillbilly on it for some reason.

I also have the new grease buttons but have not used any yet because I still have other stuff I can use first.