Purveyor of Sheaths, Crudely Made

[Artificer]

Wick,

Thank you very much for that additional information. The tip on using the micarta and/or formica to ensure smooth pressed leather is especially appreciated. I can imagine plain wood would leave grain impressions on the leather, but I would never have thought of that ahead of time.

After the final pressing, do you find you have to smooth up spots with a bone/antler/wood burnisher?
I found that necessary when wet forming cap pouches and some types of cartridge boxes, that is why I ask.

Gus

 

[LRB]

I occasionally have to do a little touch up, but most often not. I do use a polished antler tine to go over the seam though.

 

[Artificer]

Thanks again, Wick. Really appreciate it.

Gus

 

[crockett]

Yes, thanks Wick- great information.

 

[SgtErv]

+ 3. Been a huge help. I am probably going to make another sheath just for practice and to implement some of the good advice here

 

[LRB]

Just FYI, black paper micarta is very reasonably priced, and is the least expensive of the micarta's.

 

[Artificer]

Wick,
Sorry I had to leave for a while. May I ask where you get slabs/pieces of black paper micarta in pieces large enough to use as press blocks?

Not having used much of it , myself, I am thinking maybe a 1 Foot square piece cut into two pieces would work for both blocks?

I have also wondered if sheet aluminum bent over blocks might work as well?

Gus

 

[LRB]

I have not bought micarta in awhile, but I used to get it from Sheffield Knife Makers Supply. 12" x 12" would be plenty. 6" x 12" split would be enough for most sheaths. I had to make up a longer set for Bowie sizes. Used to be that you could buy close to any size you wanted, but I don't know how things are now. Aluminum may work, if the wet leather does not cause some kind of weird oxidation problems. You could likely use some kind of a plastic sheeting also. It is good to have whatever the facing is over wood though. That way the blocks can flex a tad bit. I do my common sheath blocking in a vise, but most often C clamp the point end so that all is pressured, and the sheath thickness will follow the blade taper. Also, for the center seam sheaths, I have one end of the blocks shaped like a sled front, giving a radius where the blade meets the grip.

 

[crockett]

Wick- the first photo, upper sheath with the throat- about 15 years ago there was a collectibles show at the Tupperware Center. There was an original Sheffield Bowie for $30,000 and its sheath was a twin to yours. The sheath was either paper-mace or some type of fiber and covered with a thin leather, smooth and red.
I was sort of stoked just to handle a knife costing $30,000.

 

[Artificer]

Wick,

It is very generous of you to share these tips that will save many of us from a lot of mistakes.

Good point on possible oxidation from aluminum sheet. Great tip about keeping the seam centered near the point. I imagine that can get a bit tricky and the use of a C Clamp to start the pressing at the point is very interesting.

Personally, I think your adding a wooden spacer next to the grip to ensure the edge doesn't cut the leather is brilliant.

Gus

 

[LRB]

I don't know about brilliant. On the earlier CS sheaths I made, I was always bothered by the edge sometimes sliding down the leather in that zone. One had to consciously sheath the blade with care to prevent cutting. The only other answer I could come up with was to make the upper section much wider and open, and I didn't want to do that. Here is a shot of a CS sheath being vised and clamped. You can also see the radiused front ends on the blocks. I usually do this one day, then leave it until the next. You can see this sheath is a front CS. Imported CS trade knife sheaths were back seamed. The knife you see in the sheath is an aluminum and scrap wood dummy just for the forming. In the next few days, weeks, I plan to be working out a pattern for a type of original CS sheath that is in a museum somewhere in Europe. I have a few photo shots to go from. These will not be greatly different, but have one unique feature that may be worth while having.

 

[Artificer]

Wick,

Well, if it is not brilliant how you figured out how to do something they did back then (and make it so professional looking) without someone showing you how they did it, I don’t know a better descriptive term for it. It takes a sharp mind and some wherewithal or stubbornness (or both) to do that.

Great photo and I appreciate you showing it. I thought that was what you meant, but was not entirely sure.

Gus