Exactly. All of them will corroded if not completely cleaned. So why would anyone clean less than completely?
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Pyrodex
- Thread starter twodollarpistol
- Start date
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Guessing you will not believe me, so look up potassium perchlorate, a primary ingredient of Pyrodox not included in black powder. Personal experience and independent data shows it will even destroy stainless steel, not to mention the low carbon steel used in muzzleloading barrels.
You misunderstand what I was trying to say. Most that "seasoned" didn't clean or didn't clean well.
Correct, Chlorates will pit and rust steel, especially stainless steel.
Greg Blackburn
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2012
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I have shot a lot of Pyrodex in a caplock but ended up going to a musket nipple for better ignition. It seemed to work fine at the range but not in the field if the least bit moist. I finally learned to wrap my caplock action in plastic wrap, taping it below the triggerguard and above action, for it to be reliable.
Probably, best to stick with black powder.
OP....glad you were able to pull the load out.
Probably, best to stick with black powder.
OP....glad you were able to pull the load out.
jimhallam
Pilgrim
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Perhaps I am being a bit "thick", but I can't see why it seems to be o.k. to discuss Pyrodex, Triple7 etc -- all of which are NOT "Black Powder".
Its ok because it is a substitute for BP. We are not so anal that we don't realize the real stuff is difficult to near impossible for some folks to get. It may not seem that way to people that have good sources but it sometimes is the case for others.
bradly_tx
40 Cal
Yep, you are!
Pete G
76 Cal.
Perfect description
Shooting it, you may have to adjust your powder charges compared to real black. I noticed doing comparison, my accuracy changed when trying it. From a bench with equivalent powder charges, the ones with pyro shot high.
If it's all you can get, then fire away. I will always try to get real black for sure
If it's all you can get, then fire away. I will always try to get real black for sure
This whole matter has been ground into a fine powder not visible to the naked eye any longer.
How about just cleaning up your gun after you use it?
Oh! and road salt rots fenders if you never wash your vehicle....
How about just cleaning up your gun after you use it?
Oh! and road salt rots fenders if you never wash your vehicle....
SD, not that I dont believe you Im sure that both B/P and Pyrodex have inherent corrosive quality's once burned .
The main lesson is no matter what one uses just clean the darn thing thoroughly after use.
Asking for a moderator pardon on this.....I have a modern .357 stainless. After use it is stripped complete and cleaned to the extent that it looks like its never been shot.
Flintlocks same thing. It does not matter what you have, lack of care will always bring misery......
Flintlocks same thing. It does not matter what you have, lack of care will always bring misery......
use both B/P and Pyrodex in all my Flinters. Grind special for the pan. Measure, load, prime, Bang,,,,done.
I really do not see what the problem is. Many a Harvested Deer with both. I do not think they knew the difference.
I really do not see what the problem is. Many a Harvested Deer with both. I do not think they knew the difference.
Here is a photograph of a stainless breech plug from a gun we don’t talk about here that I pulled for a guy. Bore looked ok, with typical Pyrodox frosting. But the little Pyrodox residue that got past the face seal was eating away the stainless breech plug and barrel. Threads were covered with Never Seize and appeared ok. Blackpowder residue does not corrode like this.
Precisely.
There are several things we allow discussions of on the forum that are more modern than 1865, but we do this because we want to help people enjoy the fun of shooting old time muzzleloading firearms.
The basic formula for Pyrodex was invented around the 1840's Making it period correct.
When you change your oil its important to change the filter also
Interesting! Thanks Carbon
