Question on making the holes in the barrel tenon's oblong?

[M. De Land]

According to the Kibler build instructions, we are supposed to extend the tenon holes for the barrel pins so they are oblong so that the barrel can adjust due to the stock swelling or contracting due to weather conditions. So how is everyone accomplishing this? Do they make a metal cutting blade that will thread through the small drill hole? I have a coping saw with metal cutting blades, but they look way too big for what I need.
Thanks for the help

I'd drill the same size hole either side in the tenon and clean out the web between them with a needle file. It will be easier to keep the elongated hole level with this method me thinks. This is why I always prefer staples that are peened and low temp silver soldered in place and then wedges/keys used in place of pins. The wedge is narrowed in the middle where it passes through the staple for elongation clearance. I don't like to make dovetail cuts in barrels for tenons or rear sights as they weaken barrel stiffness.

 

[Trapper Scott]

I'd drill the same size hole either side in the tenon and clean out the web between them with a needle file. It will be easier to keep the elongated hole level with this method me thinks. This is why I always prefer staples that are peened and low temp silver soldered in place and then wedges used in place of pins. The wedge is narrowed in the middle where it passes through the staple for elongation clearance. I don't like to make dovetail cuts in barrels for tenons or rear sights as they weaken barrel stiffness.

Another good way to skin the same cat and keep the location of the slot the same. I like this idea also. Thank you for sharing.

 

[longcruise]

According to Jim's latest video, the lugs are milled into the barrel. Leastwise that was my understanding. Im considering doing my Woodsrunner with keys instead of pins if it's feasible.

 

[Trapper Scott]

According to Jim's latest video, the lugs are milled into the barrel. Leastwise that was my understanding. Im considering doing my Woodsrunner with keys instead of pins if it's feasible.

I think is just for the Woodsrunner right now though. I have one of his SMR kits I'm wanting to assemble.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

The lugs on all of his barrels are actually a part of the barrel. He buys rifled blanks from Green Mountain and machines the swamp in them in house, leaving the barrel lugs as a part of the barrel. His earlier guns from rice had dovetailed lugs.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I disagree! A Dremel's use is no different than a milling machine. I would not even know how to turn a milling machine on
So how can you say there’s no difference?

In the event I was not clear..... My intent of communication in replying to billraby was to say that I do not know how to use a milling machine, and those who do not know how to use other items I described can get into trouble when they do not have the ability and or knowledge to use them.
There ya go bud!
Larry

 

[Rudall]

You people really would argue about anything.
And why does such a simple thing need 26 replies! The question was answered perfectly satisfactorily in answers 2 and 4. I don't think anything of any substance was added subsequently.

 

[Eric Krewson]

As you all may have noticed I am a picture guy, here is what I use, I use the one to the far left. I have had two Dremel's , the first was American made and lasted 30 years, the second was made in China and lasted 6 months. I have a foot controlled Fordom tool but it is awkward to get out and set up. After my last Dremel quit I bought a $9 tool from Harbor Freight to get me by until I bought a better-quality tool. I don't use a Dremel type tool all that often and the el-cheapo works just fine and has for the last 2 years.

 

[Siringo]

I had asked Jim Kibler about this when he had his question and answer video. My question/point was the pin holes as drilled are in a precise location. I had found it nearly impossible to slot the tenon and maintain the slot to the precise hole dimension and parallel to potential barrel movement. Then asking “will you be slotting the tenons in the future?” He answered that they may consider this in future kits. Looks like others chimed in too. Too me, this is great!

 

[Billy Boy]

Wood changes very little in length along the grain. I don't think it's necessary, especially if the stock is well sealed.

The barrel ‘growing’ as it gets warm-hot is the issue for me.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

The barrel ‘growing’ as it gets warm-hot is the issue for me.

The real problem is expansion and contraction of the wood. The barrel expands and contracts very little in comparison. The last thing I do on a gun is cut the slots on the barrel lug. Many times the pins will already be bent just from the wood changing because of the change of season. Variations in humidity are enough to get your stock to expand and contract. These bound up pins can radically affect your accuracy.

 

[Trapper Scott]

As you all may have noticed I am a picture guy, here is what I use, I use the one to the far left. I have had two Dremel's , the first was American made and lasted 30 years, the second was made in China and lasted 6 months. I have a foot controlled Fordom tool but it is awkward to get out and set up. After my last Dremel quit I bought a $9 tool from Harbor Freight to get me by until I bought a better-quality tool. I don't use a Dremel type tool all that often and the el-cheapo works just fine and has for the last 2 years.

View attachment 168949

Thanks for the picture. That helps. I have a set of diamond-coated bits similar to those, although mine may be a bit shorter.

 

[beardedhorse]

When inletting the lug into the stock I leave a little wiggle room fore and aft but not sideways. How do people deal with swamped barrels when the wall thickness at the skinny waist does not allow for normal dovetails, solder or strong epoxy like Black Max?

 

[The Appalachian]

Wood changes very little in length along the grain. I don't think it's necessary, especially if the stock is well sealed.

Exactly.

So many proudly shout how they don't apply finish under the lock or other metal work, and sometimes not even the barrel channel.

That's just inviting moisture into the wood at every opportunity, along with movement.......

Seal that sucker inside and out and don't worry about it. My last build isn't even held together with cross pins, and y'all can guess how it is. Two free feral cats to who guesses it right first.

 

[Redlemur60]

Wood changes very little in length along the grain. I don't think it's necessary, especially if the stock is well sealed.

Key word "think"if im making a work of ART! i would like for it to last long after im gone! And avoiding the advise of experts ? And yes i do,and so doez a aweful lot of gunsmiths of note . But hey do what you want (heres the point where i used to say its a free country) i dont say that any more

 

[Ballshooter]

As you all may have noticed I am a picture guy, here is what I use, I use the one to the far left. I have had two Dremel's , the first was American made and lasted 30 years, the second was made in China and lasted 6 months. I have a foot controlled Fordom tool but it is awkward to get out and set up. After my last Dremel quit I bought a $9 tool from Harbor Freight to get me by until I bought a better-quality tool. I don't use a Dremel type tool all that often and the el-cheapo works just fine and has for the last 2 years.

View attachment 168949

That is how I did mine

 

[M. De Land]

When inletting the lug into the stock I leave a little wiggle room fore and aft but not sideways. How do people deal with swamped barrels when the wall thickness at the skinny waist does not allow for normal dovetails, solder or strong epoxy like Black Max?

I'd use staples peened and soldered in place and keys !

 

[COTNTOP]

A fella brought me an old CVA yesterday to be refinished. When I tore it down the stock had one pin and one tenon. The only pin was where the missing tenon was supposed to be. There two screws at the brass forend holding the barrel down. It belonged to his father and they had shot it for 30yrs.

 

[Trapper Scott]

I finally got the holes drilled for the tenons today with the pins temporarily installed (left them about an inch long). When I finish up the inletting for the trigger guard and butt plate, I'll pull the barrel and slot the tenons.

 

[Mark E. Prickett]

Well let me answer the OP, track of the wolf seals jeweler blades made in Germany. They cut and last far longer than tje Chinese crap off of Amazon. I just cut some 3/8 thick mild steel with one to see how it held up. It did!!! Germany for the win.