Ram Rod hole

[Zonie]

As I have never tried drilling a ramrod hole I'm probably not the one to talk but I do have a few years of knowledge about drills. (I spent 5 years as a cutting tool designer).

As we know, one uses the ramrod groove in the stock as a guide for the drill when drilling the ramrod hole.
Seems to me that unless the brazed or welded on extension is the same size as the drill body it won't pilot in the ramrod groove very well.
That said, I would think that a 3/8 inch diameter rod would have to be used as the extension.

Drill bits tend to follow the hole they are making and if there is any runout between the extension and the drill bit, it may take off in its own chosen direction making a break out very likely.

With a brazed or soldered joint attaching the drill bit one is putting a lot of faith in the strength of the joint which at most would only be about 1/8 of a square inch in area.

That 1/8 inch of area says the strength of the joint is only 1/8 of the tensile strength of the braze alloy or solder, so, if one does this they need to be very cautious and never try to force the drill.

The bottom line as far as I'm concerned is I would rather buy the pre made drill and be sure it was going to stay together rather than possibly loose the drill bit down in the stock somewhere.

 

[LRB]

It should be a lap joint if brazed, and that is more than sufficient, but one or two through pins would guarantee that it stay together.

 

[Herb]

I use 3/8" rod and have one drill that is 3/8". I have drilled about 40 of these, and I may use the 3/8" drill for full depth then go back with the 1/32" over size to open the hole larger in the lower forestock. Braze or hard solder would be stronger, but I don't know how to braze. I have not yet lost a drill by breaking it, but it is a real consideration. I also think the TOW drill is a good one, but I had mine made and the hole drilled before I could have ordered the drill and got it. There are better ways to do this than mine, it is just what I do.

 

[Vaino]

My RR drills are composed of a drill w/ a turned down shank length of 1-1/2" and this is fitted into a drilled and reamed hole in the drill rod. The joint w/ chamfers on both drill and rod is then brazed, filed smooth and produces a total drill length w/o runout and is very strong....Fred

 

[Zonie]

A lapped joint or a undersized shank brazed or silver soldered into a drilled hole in the extension sounds good to me.
I didn't see much in the previous posts about the actual mating feature so I was mentioning the strength of the joint mainly for those who might be tempted to just use a simple butt joint where the ends are stuck together with braze alloy or silver solder.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Birddog6]

When I made my extended drill I ground a 45 deg V on the bit & the rod & then clamped them in the bottom of a piece of angle iron & welded them up a little at a time turning them over & welding it, then 180 over, weld, then 90 over, weld, & 180, weld, Then a tad in between those, etc. till I had it all welded. Then took it to the belt sander & cleaned it up.
How strong it is ? Don't have a clue... :shake: Have used a couple of them for ? 10 years & no issues. I am Very careful of not drilling much before I back out & pull the shavings, as I am concerned with it binding from shavings buildup down in the forestock.

I am going to try that Lap Joint connection the next time I make one as I like that idea & use silver solder & sweat it together. You might just twist that mild steel rod before you break a 1" silver soldered lap joint, tho I don't plan on testing it for strength. Not going to mess with the small pins, as if you break that silver soldered joint, the two small pins will be no problem to snap, IMHO.