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Chevythunderman

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Where does everyone get there ramrod drill bits from? I need a bit for a 5/16" ramrod. I seen that track has them but just curious if anyone else has them or if there is a better one than the other. I really don't have the tooling to make my own so that's not really an option....
 
not usually one to take a shot at Track, but I plonked down some pretty serious coin for their HC/PC drill bit and it didn't work at all well, so I asked the local autobody guy if he could weld a drill bit to a bit of round stock and he said, "Well, what size bit?" and when I told him, he said, "Gimme a minute."


actually it took about three, and he charged me five bucks.



(now the transmission he was fixing for me, that was a good bit more expensive)

good luck with your project!
 
+1

Do not get the bit from TOW (top bit in picture)! That sort of bit is horrible for end grain, not to mention they are dull. On my first gun, I used the TOW bit and it punched a hole through the belly in about 6 inches. For end grain, I highly recommend a brad point bit (bottom bit in picture). Do whatever you have to do to get one made. You'll spend less time and money getting one made than you will if you wreck your stock.
21.jpg
 
I have a 3/8 brad point bit that came with a bunch of stocks and barrels that I bought awhile back. I'm worried about making my own and getting the bit not straight and having a runout because of such. I'd hate to waste 30-40hours of carving on a blank to just ruin it with a crappy drill bit. I'll check muzzleloader builders supply and Dixie to see if they have any.
 
Travis,

Most any good machinist can anneal the rear end of the Brad Point Drill and turn a smaller diameter post on the end. Then get/take the correct size diameter steel rod and center bore it to align the bit prior to welding.

If you have an Industrial Arts High School, Junior College or Apprentice Program Trade school in your area - this kind of thing can often get done there cheaper and just as well made as taking it to a more expensive machine shop. Oh, also check around for retired machinists who have their own lathes at home. Many of the retired machinists have forgotten more than some modern machinists are taught and will do exceptional work for a very reasonable charge.

Gus
 
I've made 2 RR drills...one 5/15 dia and the other 3/8. Used a length of cold rolled steel. drilled a hole that was 1/16 dia less than the drill size, turned down the shank of an aircraft length drill approx. 2" long for a light press fit w/ the drilled holed in the rod. Chamfered the outside corners of both the rod and drill and high temp silver soldered filling in the chamfer. The shank of a drill can be turned w/ a high speed steel tool bit.

The cutting shape of both size drills is a flat bottom....easy to do and easy to resharpen VS a brad point.

Once visited Fred Miller who has drilled 1000s of RR holes and found his RR drills had flat bottoms also. The flat bottom acts somewhat like a milling cutter and is not affected by the grain as is a angled pointed drill....Fred
 
I found that muzzleloader builder supply has one for $32 that looks identical to my 3/8 one which works really well. I truly appreciate the ways on to make one as I am one to always make all my own stuff when I can but I think it might be easier for me this time around to just buy one. I'm just worried about my metal skills are not even close to be called skills when it comes to welding or drilling and getting something straight. I'm just worried that if its off just a little bit that its gonna run out on me and leave me with a pile of wood that costs more than the price of a good drill bit.....
 
flehto said:
The flat bottom acts somewhat like a milling cutter and is not affected by the grain as is a angled pointed drill....Fred
By flat bottomed do you mean spade bit.
A 3/8 spade bit with extended 1/4 shaft has a certain amount of steerage available to you.
O.
 
If you have someone make you up a ram rod drill make it in two sizes -- one for 3/8" and one for 5/16". If the drill bit is welded on the rod then it is a bit difficult to sharpen -- have it done like this ---

you can also change bits quickly
 
The cutting lips of the drill are straight across. If a straight edge is placed on the drill end, both it and the drill match....Fred
 
I use brad point bits also. I did make a sanding adapter to hold a strip of emery cloth to sand the inside of the ram rod hole after drilling to smooth it up. All it is is a cylinder threaded on one end to fit the drill rod and then the cylinder is slit down the middle for about 1.5" and two 4-40 screws are cross drilled 90 degrees to the slit to clamp on the enery cloth.
I don't run the drill in reverse - clockwise only - push in to advance - then clockwise and pull back to remove drill and chips come out - no reverse :v
 
I talked to one of my mentors on muzzleloading building and he said that the drill bit from muzzleloader builders supply was a great bit and he has the whole set and loves them. So I went ahead and ordered one of them. $32+shipping plus I was able to order some other stuff that I needed so hopefully it will work out.
 
The flat bottom acts somewhat like a milling cutter and is not affected by the grain as is a angled pointed drill....Fred

This works 100% and as an added bonus there is no need to attach a bit to a rod.
I made one "by eye" that worked well but now have an old bit holding jig for the bench grinder that will let me do it fast and with confidence. A piece of wood with a groove in it bolted to something would be a legitimate jig for getting the bit shaped. Sharpening is dead easy cause your angle is 90.

Angled drill bits are POWERFUL levers,
 
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