Ramrod hole problem

[khwils]

OK question #3, the precarve came with a 5/16" hole drilled "most" of the way in. I enlarged my ramrod channel to my drill bit size, 11/32". BTW, I ground the back end of my ramrod drill bit square and used it as a scraper, it worked very good and fast. I then drilled the ramrod hole enlarging it to 11/32" but the drill wandered upward toward the barrel channel. It meets the barrel channel at the breech. I chiseled out the hole from the barrel channel about 6" from the breech, it was already routed out some from the factory in the barrel channel anyway. I put the ramrod in and it still bends up toward the barrel. The only problem I have with this is the web between the barrel and RR hole at the rear barrel lug will probably be pretty thin, how much room do I actually need? I haven't measured out the barrel lugs yet but should I worry about this or leave it alone? Peter A. states that I should narrow the web at the front of the barrel channel to 1/8" bringing it out to 3/16" about a foot from the front. This will create a big bowed ramrod hole - the thing shouldn't fall out! But is it right? Thanks, Kurt

 

[rich pierce]

It's always hard to communicate these things in writing, so bear with me. If I understand it, you have a precarved stock that came with a ramrod hole drilled part way then routed in from the barrel channel but the routed part was not extended far enough toward the breech. Plus you wanted a larger diameter ramrod hole. So you drilled a pre-existing hole to a larger diameter, with no wood at all to back it where the routed portion is. Therefore it naturally wandered upward, the path of least resistance.

OK, if it was me or Jerry this is what we'd probably do:
1) learn how much wood you have left on the forearm by drilling a tiny 1/16" hole from the area covered by the trigger guard front extension upward into the barrel channel. Now put the ramrod drill in there and measure with a tack or needle to see how thick the wood is.
2) If you have a quarter inch, praise the LORD and do a little jig around the shop. If you have 3/16", be very thankful. If you have 1/8", you might start pouting. Any less than that, you can cry and nobody will blame you.
3) If you have enough wood then extend the routed channel for the ramrod all the way to the trigger guard boss or wherever you've decided the depth should be. Then carefully deepen that channel till the ramrod is at least 1/8" below the barrel where the front lockplate screw will go.
4) Now you have to test whether the rod wants to wander upwards and therefore the tip would bang on the rear lug or the front lockbolt and drive you crazy, or not. If not, you may do a little happy dance.
5) if it wants to curve upwards, try to learn where the deflection is occurring and fix it.
6) Now to finish up: Jerry would carefully chisel and work that routed channel for the ramrod till it was very uniform, then glue in a long strip of stock wood that was "half-domed" underneath to completely close up that ramrod channel. And I'd recommend doing that with the ramrod drill in place! I, on the other hand, would forge a "spoon spring" that would push the ramrod downward toward the belly of the rifle and staple it in place. i'll take apicture and post it later this week. Or email me.
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trouble with pre-carves is that other folks don't necessarily do it the way we'd like. trouble with blanks is we aren't always able to do it the way we'd like!

 

[Birddog6]

If I understand you correctly, you drilled into the routed hole above the breech area & the bit came up towards the barrel ?
Put the drill bit back in the hole & about a inch into the channel opening & clamp a piece or steel there down just onto the bit but not tight. This will work as a bearing surface & hold the bit down into place. A long piece of key stock with a clamp at each end works well for this. On one I did I took the wire welder & just tacked the keystock to the "C" clamps. Now drill on back to the end of where you need to be. Bur anyway, this will hold the bit down & make it go where you want it. The harder you clamp it, the further down into the stock you get. Ream the hole good, measure to be sure you are deep enough. (I like to have at least 1/2" longer than the bore depth, but watch you don't get into the triggerguard lug or something else) Now cut a piece of wood the same size as the routed opening & make the part going in slightly smaller than the top, so it is wedged in a lil & will not go in too far, fit that in & glue it. Personally I would have the drill or a RR in the hole so I don't go too far when I push it in (it should be snug) and then remove the bit or RR as you don't want that glued in. At this point I would put a piece or waxed paper against the glued piece & 2 small blocks of wood & slide 2 rubber bands in place to like this. Now turn it upside down so no glue runs into the RR hole & the blocks & rubber bands will hold it all in place. After it dries run the drill back in there & make sure it is fully open & no glue is obstructing or the drill will clean it out. Go SLOW & easy.
Now clean up the glue excess & reinlet the barrel at the breech where you just filled in with the wood piece & if desired you can glass bed it there also to fill any voids & give you a smooth support area at the breech.

:thumbsup:

 

[khwils]

Thanks guys, I don't know why I didn't think of the wood splice idea, I have the James Turpin video and he shows that method to clean up the RR router hole. Thanks, Kurt