I have a nice custom percussion fullstock rifle I bought from Oregon a year ago. When I got it, hickory ramrod would withdraw from stock perfectly, not tight, not loose. Today, after a year in humid Louisiana, rod is stuck tight as a drum in the stock. I have pulled on the brass end with pliers, still won't budge. Guess the rod swelled up in the stock. Assuming I can get it loose someday, how to prevent again? Sand it down more, coat it with something, or ???
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Ramrod stuck
- Thread starter tallPercshooter
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Yep sand it where it goes in the stock and coat it with a varnish. A sunny afternoon may help it loosen or keep it in a air condition roI’m.
You can build a drying box, and put an incandescent light in it for a mild heat source. Run this in an air conditioned space where the air is dry already. Cardboard works fine or a wood box if you might use it again, just make sure you can't start a fire or burn your stock with the light bulb. One of the old style drop lights with the cage around the bulb will help keep the heat out of direct contact with things it shouldn't touch. Punch a couple small vent holes in the top of one end, a couple small intake holes on the bottom of the opposite end where the light bulb is. You will get some convection movement through the box. When it has dried a bit the ramrod will come out. I would clean out or make sure the ramrod hole in the stock is clean, split a dowel and use some sandpaper to sand the inside of the ramrod hole a bit, I would use 150-180 grit and chucking the dowel in a drill motor makes it super easy. Seal the ramrod hole in the stock and seal the ramrod well after sanding to a nice fit, shouldn't happen again. You can wax the hole and the ramrod periodically also to prevent moisture intake and swelling.
Just my thought, belt and suspenders, I would seal any open wood on the stock while doing this also.
Just my thought, belt and suspenders, I would seal any open wood on the stock while doing this also.
Does the lock have two side bolts? Many times, the forward lock bolt impinges on the ramrod hole, and binds on the rod. If the lock has two bolts, try removing the forward bolt and see if that releases your ramrod.
If that is the problem, you can either taper the distal end of the ramrod (my preference), or file a little “half moon” in the bolt where it contacts the rod.
Even if the lock bolt isn’t the problem, it sounds like you may need to sand off a little of the ramrod’s diameter. Or make a new one. I would still taper it slightly on the distal end.
Please let us know how the situation shakes out. The rest of us might learn something from your experience.
Notchy Bob
If that is the problem, you can either taper the distal end of the ramrod (my preference), or file a little “half moon” in the bolt where it contacts the rod.
Even if the lock bolt isn’t the problem, it sounds like you may need to sand off a little of the ramrod’s diameter. Or make a new one. I would still taper it slightly on the distal end.
Please let us know how the situation shakes out. The rest of us might learn something from your experience.
Notchy Bob
is it stuck in the stock or the thimbles??? or both?
The thimbles appear to have some space between metal and rod. I took out forward lock screw; no change, still stuck.
I doubt if Oregon is much less humid than y'all in the Bayous.
But, since nothing else has worked...
Is the ramrod retaining spring somehow snagging on the ramrod?
You might have to remove the lock and barrel to get at it, and maybe even the trigger guard.
Keep us posted...
But, since nothing else has worked...
Is the ramrod retaining spring somehow snagging on the ramrod?
You might have to remove the lock and barrel to get at it, and maybe even the trigger guard.
Keep us posted...
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 3,235
- Reaction score
- 7,170
I like Notchy Bob's idea better than mine. Go for his idea first.
Pliers have proven they don't work. Time to get out the vice grips. At the risk of chewing up your brass tip, use vice grips and rotate the ramrod while withdrawing. I would first use a cushing of leather to protect the brass, if that slips, then go vicegrips right to the brass. That is what I woud do. Keep the lock screws out also. Be better if you had another person hold the rifle while you did the tugging.
Keep us posted
Larry
Last edited:
If you can find a little eyebolt with machine threads to fit the ferrule on your rod (usually 8-32 or 10/32), screw it in and pull on that rather than the rod itself. I’ve dealt with a few stuck rods, and for me, it usually works best to affix the rod to something, maybe a vise, and pull on the gun. You pull the rifle off the rod that way, rather than the rod out of the rifle. The inertia of the gun’s weight seems to help, and I have the gun in my hands and at least theoretically under my control the whole time.
You do need to be very careful and keep everything straight so you don’t stress the wood forend or pull off a thimble.
Others’ experience may vary.
Notchy Bob
You do need to be very careful and keep everything straight so you don’t stress the wood forend or pull off a thimble.
Others’ experience may vary.
Notchy Bob
I think Notchy Bob has the right suggestions. I also like to taper the rod at the end that goes into the stock so it is a barely snug fit and leave the rest to where the rod clears the thimbles. This allows it to stay in the stock better without falling out too easily.
There is no retaining spring (like on a factory halfstock). Just a hole in forearm and two thimbles. What if I left rifle in a hot truck cab in the sun for a day? Would get mighty warm in there. I know where there is a big bench vise; might clamp brass jag in that and try to jolt rifle backward and see if that works. Thanks for all advice. Anyway, it is a heavy rifle and I don't hunt with it, just target shoot, where I use a range rod. But bugs me it won't come out....
morehops52
50 Cal.
Just a thought but I found a screw on my trigger guard was screwed in a teeeny bit too much. Ramrod wouldn’t come out. Took some work to figure it was the guard screw. Never would’ve thought it was the culprit
kelvinator
32 Cal.
Not sure if this a good idea or not, chill it for a good while in a fridge, not a freezer, if you can fit it in one, like over nite so it gets chilled all the way through.
Then gently start warming it from the outside with a hair dryer while pulling on the RR
Then gently start warming it from the outside with a hair dryer while pulling on the RR
If you have access to Nitrogen, bag it and do a purge
It will dry it out really fast
It will dry it out really fast
Track of the Wolf sells wooden ball and aluminum T-shaped handles that will screw onto the end of a threaded ramrod.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/849/1
I have their T-handles for both 8-32 and 10-32 ramrod ends. I had to use one last weekend to pull a ball. I screwed the ball puller into the ball and with the T-handle installed, inverted the rifle so I could hold the handle down with my feet. A quick tug up on the rifle and the ball came right out.
The T-handles are light enough to carry in your shooting pouch, too.
Archer 756
40 Cal.
Heat rod up with hair dryer rod should come out
SUCCESS!! thanks Morehops52 - it WAS the front triggerguard screw. The screw was directly in line with the drum, I didn't think the ramrod was that long. There was a dimple from screw tip in the last 1/8 inch of the ramrod, holding it tight. NEVER would have thought of that - but now I remember I did take TG off to check on set triggers, then put it back (with ramrod in place). I think I will turn the screw down tight, THEN put rod back and let it bottom against the screw. Thanks again! you saved me a lot of unnecessary work.
Just file the end of the screw flat. The part in the ramrod hole isn't doing any work.
Think I'll just leave the screw tip protruding a little into the ramrod hole. It just makes the ramrod stick out the front about another 1/8 inch, not a problem. Thanks everyone.
