Ramrod use

[pinemarten]

Hello, Am enjoying my new beautiful .50 call longrifle flinter! I have shot only twice and it is a lot of fun! My bow hunting buddy shot with me yesterday and was entirely smitten by the gun. He went home knowing he had to have one for himself! (He and I are obsessive longbow hunters...so traditional flintlock is our style for sure). We talk a walk through the snow to the oak ridges and he carried the gun and talked about how it transformed him back to another era and a feeling closer to Wilderness. Since we are both hunters first, a focus was on a discussion of loads suitable for hunting and use of the wooden ramrod. He noticed that, with my stainless range rod, I still had to give the .490 ball patched with bore butter lubed pillow ticking short 'rams'/nudges to move it every 6-10 inches down the new 42" .50 Getz barrel. We shot that way near the house, but when we went out on the hike I was too afraid to load with the wood rod thinking I might break it with the force (I was using a short starter as well). I want to develop a load that will work for loading out in the field with the wood rod (though I will use range rod for practice at home). Of course I want a load with good accuracy, but one that I don't have to get anxious over wacking down the barrel. Does a new barrel get easier to load over time...so just stick with the present combo (patches looked great coming out of the gun)? Or should I strike some kind of balance with an easier combo to feel confident with the wooden ramrod? I can not shove this combo straight down the barrel with the range rod as it is now (have to bump it to start it moving several times). Do new barrels stay about the same, or can I expect it to smooth out or loosen up or season or whatever over time?

I appreciate any help with this question! It is very exciting to be working on getting the rifle tuned up and your mentorship is highly valued!

Daniel

 

[Crewdawg445]

All I have ever used is a hickory rod... NEVER have I broken a wooden hickory rod because I understand and respect it's limitations. Personally if you have to force a ball with a metal rod, something is wrong.

 

[Pete G]

Start by finding another lube. You should not have a lot of resistance in a properly put together load. I have one rifle that will not shoot well with anything other than bore butter or spit, but it is the exception.

 

[fleener]

For rifles I hunt with I have a plastic rod I made to fit the rifle.

For going to the range I too use a loading rod. If you are going to some place that you want the rifle too looks nice and right, I put the wooden rod in the rifle.

fleener

 

[pinemarten]

...so, should a properly fit load be one that you start down with the short starter, then PUSH down the barrel (using shorter strokes on the wood ramrod), but not have to 'ram' or strike/bump with jolts to get going each time. One that will move with a push of the rod alone...?

If so, that will be the criteria I use as I develop the load for accuracy...one that I can push down the barrel with the wooden rod, but is showing decent patches.

Thanks!

All answers are extremely well appreciated!

Daniel

 

[Shifty]

...so, should a properly fit load be one that you start down with the short starter, then PUSH down the barrel (using shorter strokes on the wood ramrod), but not have to 'ram' or strike/bump with jolts to get going each time. One that will move with a push of the rod alone...?

If so, that will be the criteria I use as I develop the load for accuracy...one that I can push down the barrel with the wooden rod, but is showing decent patches.

Thanks!

All answers are extremely well appreciated!

Daniel

Not sure what you are saying by shorter strokes but just grip the ram rod about 8" up from the barrel and push down then repete until ball is seated.I never grab the rod range rod or ram rod by the end and try to ram it down, this is not good.Have you tried Mink Oil or Neetsfoot Oil for the lube,how thick is your patch.I'm confident you will get all this stuff working soon,by the way I'm a longbow shooter too.

 

[pinemarten]

...Thank you! I have so many questions because I have become obsessed by the smokepole after getting one for my own. A most beautiful Rupp style Barn gun .50 cal with Getz barrel. I got some patches with bore butter type lube and they are ticking of .022. The balls are .490 It seems like they went in easier the second day. I was told that it would 'eventually' do well with .495 or even .500, but I am finding the .490 a bit tight now. I tried a spit patch and it went easier but its getting pretty cold up here (freezing in barrel??) and I want the load I practice with to be suitable/same as hunting load (so a grease type ...maybe bear grease which I have?). I want to be able to load this combo with the wood rod without having to smack it at intervals (yes I use 8-10" shoves never holding rod up high)

Thank you again for your help!

Daniel

 

[Shifty]

Bear Grease is great I use some too but I never suggest it because most don't have access to it,I don't think you will ever need to go larger than the .495 ball and probly the .490,just shoot the heck out of it.You may want to pm Daryl who is on this site (and an other one I cant mention here) he has plenty of COLD weather shooting experience,good luck and enjoy.

 

[Spikebuck]

Hunting is my primary objective as well and I don't think any of my rifles have a load that just "slides" down the bore in one stroke. All of them require shorter strokes. I have not had issues with good wooden ramrods...as stated earlier by other posters, just make the shorter 6 - 8" pushes until it's seated all the way (have the ramrod clearly marked so you know it's seated).

If you are overly concerned and a wooden rod is truly something that bothers you, you can use a brass or synthetic rod or a wooden rod with a steel core.

 

[pinemarten]

...thank you! Very very helpful info...again, just trying to learn what proper force is in using a wooden ramrod. It seems to come down to: 8" pushes vs 8" jolts/smacks of the ball to keep it moving. The need to pull the rod back a few inches and come back down on it with a smack is what seems like maybe a sign its too tight for using the wood.

Thank you!

Daniel

 

[Dreamwalker]

I would try a .015 patch

 

[caddo]

Thinner patch or smaller ball. That load is to tight for a hunting load that I would use. Now for targets and tighter groups at the range fine. You want to be able to load a second shot quickly when hunting if needed. You can still shoot a good group with a load that is not so tight. I try to work up a ball and patch combo that gives the best groups for hunting and no short starter required.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Also try mink tallow, amazing stuff with many uses besides a patch lube.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I want to develop a load that will work for loading out in the field with the wood rod

If that is what you want, that is what you want. But, there is no law saying you cannot use a synthetic rod. A wood rod breaking and going through your hand or wrist (arteries included :shocked2: ) while in the woods can ruin yer whole day.
I suggest switching to a synthetic, like Delrin, of which I am a big fan. :grin: And either going to a thinner patch or smaller ball, like .485" or both. Do make sure your balls, regardles of size, are of pure soft lead. And use a good, non spit, patch lube.

 

[BrownBear]

I see you're in the UP. Get's kinda cold there at times, from what I hear.

One thing I'd be sure to do, get out to the range on your coldest days and try your loading methods and lube then. Most armchair quarterbacks are writing from the comfort of a nice warm climate and a comfy chair.

In my experience with cold, lots of lubes don't like to let the patched ball get moving when you switch from the short start to the rod. It's usually okay if you choke up real close on the rod, like having your hand maybe 1 or 2 inches above the muzzle, for that first stroke of the rod. After that first move you can move your hand up to 4-6" above the muzzle for each of your next strokes and never have another issue with difficult seating. Or take a chance of breaking a rod.

Only thing to beware is a tendency to move your hand further and further up for each stroke because it's so easy. Then you get down to that last few inches of seating with your hand way up the rod. And that's where fouling is worst, and the rod is most likely to hang up again.

I'd sure play with cold weather lubes (another vote here for TOW's mink oil grease), but also with firing multiple shots at the cold range just so you get a feel for fouling buildup and the need for swabbing.

 

[Many Klatch]

My .54 rifle is set up to load easy and shoot well whether dirty or clean. The end of the barrel has been coned so the ball starts without a short starter. I shoot a .526 ball with a .012 patch. The barrel is a Getz with round bottom rifling so that helps with shooting dirty.

Your gun is new and you are new to muzzleloading. Don't be in too much of a hurry to figure things out. I figure it takes me about a year to finally figure out what each gun likes. Try different size balls, patches, lubes. Shoot in all weathers.

Have fun, don't overthink it.

 

[pinemarten]

excellent suggestion! Thank you for your help, I do intend to shoot in the cold this winter. Maybe setting the gun out on the porch and hour before I use it would be a good test of how it will behave in similar conditions.

Daniel

 

[roadgrader]

I vote for thinner patches and lighter lubes. You need to be able to load a second shot in a hurry. Stacey

 

[gwalker]

Bore butter is not a good lube to use in cold weather. Try something else such as Dixie's Old Zip Patch grease (mutton tallow with bees wax). I use it here in Wyoming throughout the year with no concerns about the cold weather. Next, your patch/ball combination is too tight for a hunting load. I use a 0.487 ball (Missouri Bullet Company) with a 0.015 linen patch lightly lubed on one side with the mutton tallow. I do not use a ball starter, whether target shooting for accuracy or hunting. Rather, this patch/ball combination allows me to press the ball/patch into the muzzle with my thumb and run it down on the powder with my hickory ramrod that I have used for nearly 30 years. The old timers of 200 hundred years ago did the same when loading their rifles. Why we are always inventing gimmicks for shooting and cleaning our rifles is beyond me, when the old timers had it all worked-out 200 years ago. Keep it simple, and enjoy carrying and shooting your rifle in the wildlands.

 

[rushlake1]

Ever see a picture of a wooden rod through a palm?
It wasn't me.
Let the rifle and load tell you what type of rod to use..
If it requires a tight patch ball combo use brass or steel..if not use a wood rod using a short grip.
A wood rod just looks really nice h/c on a rifle.
It's your hand.