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Rant: buyer beware

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WOW! I am very glad to hear it was " fixed " so fast by the Dixons. I would expect that kind of service from them. The original builder should have very red ears on reading this post from you. The lock should have never left his shop with those two long screws interfering with the hammer and frizzen.

Is the lock still eating flints? That is generally a problem of the mainspring being too heavy, or the angle of impact being to square to the frizzen. :thumbsup:
 
Great! glad to hear it! now, jus so ya won't need it,buy a frizzen spring screw..I had the same thing happen with a long front lock screw pushin on the spring, sure nough the screw broke,luckily I got the broke piece out easily and found...found! the spring And the screw(broke) on the ground on a woodswalk! :shocked2: might cost ya a dollar..but way cheaper than aggravation...good shootin!
 
I've had this same thing happen to me on two different rifles. The strange thing is it was my fault both times for overtightening the lock screws. I've since learned to look for the obvious, something that comes with experience. Also something that couldn't be found or corrected without seeing the gun. Other than telling you to send the gun back, what could the builder have done for you?
 
I'm really happy that it turned out to be a quick fix. What more, it didn't cost you anything. Now you can start enjoying your rifle and I'm looking forward to a range report!
 
I'm glad that everything worked out for you. However, I can't help but think that your offering a more accurate description of the problem would have had a different response from the maker.

justlearning said:
Second answer, "learn how to knap the flint".

From your description of the problem, I had the same thought.


justlearning said:
The rear lock mounting screw is too long and the cock is hitting it stopping if from moving smoothly and the flint is hitting the frizzen, slowing and them following through.

So, isn't the flint supposed to hit the frizzen? It can't make sparks if there is no contact between the flint and frizzen.


Personally, I don't see how a too long lock screw will cause a lock to eat flints.

I can understand how a too long lock screw can slow the movement of the cock and not allow the frizzen to kick over, but that is not what you described.


IMHO, based on your description, I probably would have had the same response as that of the maker.

I only mention this because if someone doesn't accurately describe what the problem is, how can someone, who can't see that there IS a problem, know what to do about it?

Ya gotta remember that makers get these types of calls on a regular basis. In probably 90% of the time, there is no real problem, other than operator error. Moreover, how would you feel if you were billed for the time and effort to analyze a non existing problem, with the gun as shipped by the maker, only to find that the new owner really doesn't know how to properly knap a flint?

How many new owners would even admit that they don't know how to knap a flint? Not many.

How many new "custom" gun owners would pitch a royal bi***ch if they were charged for the time a maker spent trying to find a non existing problem?
Probably a LOT more than would bi***ch about not getting adequate service.

Again, makers get these kinds of calls on a regular basis. most of the time it IS operator error. And to be completely honest, the gunmaker cannot fix operator error.

God bless
 
10 more rounds today with the same flint. In my reality I had and issue, Greg saw it and corrected the problem. Now I can work on the sights to get them where I want them instead of fighting ignition.

Mike
 
You might want to
be careful about how hard you tighten those lock bolts. Chuck Dixion told me to use only my thumb, forefinger and middle finger to tighten the bolts.
Have fun with your rifle and I hope to meet you at some of the local shoots in the area.
 
Some more thoughts on lock bolts, my early French gun has thin dome top bolts and the lock fits fairly tightly.Never, never pull the lock by the cock or frizzen. Instead back the lock bolts out a couple of turns,then gently tap the bolts and the lock will begin to move.Repeat until lock plate clears the mortice or bolts are all the way out.If the latter then tap the lock plate from the back with wooden doweand it should fall out.
Cheers
Tom Patton
 
I think that generally a good repairman makes a night and day difference in working with durable items. I use old fountain pens primarily for my work and writing, and getting acquainted with a local repairman who fixes them has made all the difference for me. Instead of sending things out, I get them fixed locally and can specify in person what is wrong along with my personal attributes as to how I write with the pen (being a lefty makes it quirky). I think it's the same with firearms, or any durable personal item like that. If you've got a good repairman locally and can get the work done, the experience is much better.
 
J.D. said:
Personally, I don't see how a too long lock screw will cause a lock to eat flints.

That's exactly what I was thinking, too long is usually poor ignition, overtight is catching on half cock :confused:

Squire Robin
 
Squire Robin said:
J.D. said:
Personally, I don't see how a too long lock screw will cause a lock to eat flints.

That's exactly what I was thinking, too long is usually poor ignition, overtight is catching on half cock :confused:

Squire Robin


Be that as it may. It cured my problem. The way I see it from looking at the lock and I'm just theorizing: As the cock moved forward the rear of the cock was hitting the screw. Picture this, the cock is released and begins it's forward motion, everything is good until the cock moves half way past the screw end sticking out beyond the lockplate. Now there is a clearence problem and the cock slows or stutters just a bit as it hits the screw. From that point the cock continues forward as it completes it's path.

Is there a millisecond where the frizzen is moving faster than the flint and creates a air gap before the flint hits it again? Now the flint hits the frizzen a second time at a very bad angel? I don't know. All I know is Greg Dixon is a highly experienced muzzleloader.

As I said before, this is how it happened when I took it in to them. He looked at the lock, dry fired it and said here's you problem (the long screw). If the cock was hitting the screw through the entire motion, I would question it also. I believe the key is that it only hit the screw at the rear (on the side of course) of the cock.

Hey, I'm only guessing. A flint would only last two shots before it wouldn't cut metal. The flint that is in the gun is the same one that stopped throwing sparks at the range. Greg just gave it few wacks with a piece of brass to get an edge on it. I have fired the gun 25 rounds now. It missfired at 23 and I popped it with the brass end of my ball started to get some edge back. When I saw Greg do that at the shop, I saw how easy it was to knock off a few flakes. But that's another discussion.

I just know I went through 4 flints in 20 rounds before and now, no.

Mike
 
So, even though there was an issue with the lock, would you have preferred to ship the gun back to the maker, at an expense of probably $80-$100, round trip, or driven to Dixons where you could get your lock fixed for nothing, and have the opportunity to browse through the shop without bumping into someone every coupla minutes?

I choose the second option. :blah: :grin:

justlearning said:
When I saw Greg do that at the shop, I saw how easy it was to knock off a few flakes.

So, you do admit that you didn't know how to knap a flint? :rotf: :v

God bless.
 
No, I'll take door #2. :grin:

I'm fortunate to live so close to Dixon's. Great place, anything you could ever need. One evening my wife had a 2 hour chat with Chuck. She really enjoyed herself and Chuck gave her a book for a gift. Not many places around like that.

Mike
 
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