Ready to brown/trade gun

[11th corps]

Now that I have the tang drilled, I am ready to start browning. I have Laurel Mt. Forge solution. Any suggestions on technique not mentioned in the included instructions? I think I want the rough antique finish.
Also should I drill the flash hole before of after browning?

 

[tg]

I have done several barrels with LMF and following the directions closely is the key to a good end product. I can see no reason not to drill the hole afterwards though it is easy to plug with a greasy toothpick while browning....FWIW is a brown finish what you are really looking for? if PC is a factor, a little research may be of help.

 

[mikee51848]

What i saw, I got a deeper brown from leaving it on for the 12 hour span, as they suggested. :m2c:

 

May be that is why they give direction for the product! :what:

 

[Old40Rod]

If you follow the instructions you will be pleased with the results. Pay special attention to the instruction that says only lightly wet the surfaces... don't rub the solution on or scrub it. This apparently can cause pitting or copper colored rusting (I had this happen on some small parts I was trying to do... I tried to dip them which I would not do again).

The barrel will probably look marginal after the first coat but don't dispair. Follow the instructions for carding, etc., and things will look better for each subsequent application.

Controlling humidity also makes a big difference. If you don't have some type of humidity box contraption, hang the parts from the shower curtain, close up the bathroom door and steam it up good periodically, keeping the door closed as much as possible (you don't have to stay and watch). The last pistol barrel I did with LMF I was able to run about 3-4 hours between applications by keeping the humidity up at good levels. The barrel looked great after only 3 applications and is holding up well to abuse.

The only thing I wouldn't do again that is listed in my instructions is coating the final product in linseed oil. The boiled linseed oil I have (maybe yours would be different) tended to gum up a bit after it dried. I was able to clean it up but it was somewhat messy. I think I have seen on other posts guys using a good machine or gun oil or even paste wax... maybe those guys could weigh in with their suggestions.

Have fun with it, and post some photos when you are done :winking:

 

[jaxenro]

I picked up a bottle of this (browning solution) but it seems to have been disentangled from it's instructions. Can anyone send me a scan of them I can print? Thanks - oel

[email protected]

 

[Black Hand]

Sir,
Is it a cold or hot brown, as the directions are different for each. As to the moisture, I have cold-browned close to 10 barrels in the last 2 years, and I have omitted using the high humidity for the last 3-4 (however they are hung in my tub, so the moisture they see is ambient). The browning has come out more even and a beautiful chocolate brown. With high humidity, it was more streaky, had more pitting and did not brown as even.

GIve it a try, you may be surprised.
Black Hand :results:

 

[jaxenro]

Itls the Laurel Mountain Forge, don't know if it's hot or cold. Do they make different types? I think it's cold, though.
Joel

 

[RussB]

Sir,
Is it a cold or hot brown, as the directions are different for each. As to the moisture, I have cold-browned close to 10 barrels in the last 2 years, and I have omitted using the high humidity for the last 3-4 (however they are hung in my tub, so the moisture they see is ambient). The browning has come out more even and a beautiful chocolate brown. With high humidity, it was more streaky, had more pitting and did not brown as even.

GIve it a try, you may be surprised.
Black Hand :results:

Black Hand, my results have been similar to yours, while using a "sweat box".
I went to some detain in building a 5' sweat box, with a 75W light nulb, and pan of water with a large sponge it.
I am no longer "real sure" of the wisdom in forced humidity. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong...certainly wouldn't be the first time. :nono:

I "think", key word here...I think, I'm getting much better color, and evenness (is there such a word?) in the overall appearance by just hanging the barrel, and parts, over the water pan, and leaving the door open, and no light.... :huh:

Just my thoughts.

Russ

 

[RussB]

I got a PM asking what a "sweat box" is...To the best of knowledge, it does nothing more than raise the humidity a bit, and helps accelerate the rusting a little...I have one, with parts, in the shop in a box "cooking" right now.

I'm not so sure I would run out and do this without some close help / advise...which is probably what I needed, when I started this.

This the parts in the box without the light bulb on.....

This is the parts with the box, and the light on...according to the thermometer on the side, by leaving the box closed for 12 hours, with the light on, the temperature will raise about between 22 / 25 degrees...and the walls of the box will sweat if I add vinegar to the water.
I don't understand the "why's" of this, but that is the way it happens. I don't particular like to see the box damp. If the box is damp, you can bet the browning is going to be streaked.......There is a happy medium there somewhere, that I haven't quite put my finger on.

Some very knowledgeable folks have told me not to use the vinegar (White Vineger) for reasons that I can't really repeat....mainly because I didn't fully understand them.
It has to do with molecular structure, and metal strength, and blah, blah, blah....Geeezh! It's only a steel gun barrel IMO.

You decide on that! It's way over my head!

I hope that answeres the question on a "sweat box". I went a little overboard with mine, but I'm sure anything that will hold the humidity would work just fine.

Respectfully, Russ

 

[Zonie]

I used a 2 inch diameter piece of PVC pipe plus two PVC Caps.
In the lower cap, I placed a 1 inch long aluminum spacer to keep the barrel out of the water, and poured about 1/2 inch of water into it.
The pipe with the plugged barrel inside was placed on the cap, and the top cap sealed the whole thing.
In the Arizona sun, some of the water in the lower cap evaporated making the air in the tube about 100% humidity.

If anything, this much humidity was too high (for my liking) and the rusting process took off like a runaway horse.
Some of you might like the results because the surface turned out very rough. Too rough for my liking though.

I'm still thinking of ways to get the pipe method working for me. It certainly is cheap.

 

[mattacton]

I used a 2 inch diameter piece of PVC pipe plus two PVC Caps.
In the lower cap, I placed a 1 inch long aluminum spacer to keep the barrel out of the water, and poured about 1/2 inch of water into it.
The pipe with the plugged barrel inside was placed on the cap, and the top cap sealed the whole thing.
In the Arizona sun, some of the water in the lower cap evaporated making the air in the tube about 100% humidity.

If anything, this much humidity was too high (for my liking) and the rusting process took off like a runaway horse.
Some of you might like the results because the surface turned out very rough. Too rough for my liking though.

I'm still thinking of ways to get the pipe method working for me. It certainly is cheap.

Zonie,

I am in the process of working on a .54 cal. I'm in the East Valley of the Phoenix Metro area, Apache Junction. How "rough" of a finish did you get?

What is your opinion of using a swamp cooler to add humidity to my shop while browning the barrel and furniture? I could get it done sooner (in June) that way.

Or, am I just better off waiting for the monsoon season to turn things humid and sticky?

Thank you for your thoughts on this.

Matt

 

[11th corps]

Well, since it was supposed to rain on and off today I thought I would start.
So far so good. As someone mentioned, the first coat didn't look very good, but has started to come around.
I just finished scrubbing with hot water, drying and then another light coat.
It really hasn't rained much yet, but living in the humidity fest that Indiana normally is in May is probably an advantage over some of you guys living in Arizona and such.
I plan on one more coat today, then washing, and leaving overnight.
The directions say I can leave it until I can get back to it if I don't coat it again. I have to work tomorrow, so I will get back to it tomorrow p.m.

 

[Zonie]

11th corps: Sounds like your on your way!
As I recall, the solution your using starts slowly but keeps on building up depth and color. Just keep on following the directions. I believe this is one of those things that the old addage "if a little is good, a lot is better" does not apply.

Superstition: If your old enough, you'll know what I mean by saying "rough as a cob". :: Well....maybe not THAT rough. More like the finish on a gun that was left to the elements for 90 years and then steel wooled.
I was looking more for a dark brown patina which is relatively smooth.
I think a swamp cooler raises the humidity to the 50-70% level during the dry months and 70-95% during the monsoon (which is why it doesn't work worth a dam during that season).
All said, I think it should work pretty good, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

[RussB]

Zonie, While spending many years in El Paso, Texas, your story of the ol' swamp cooler brings back some very pleasant memories.

Of course that was the good old days, when a man could have his guns in a nice glass front gun cabinet, in the den...where they belong, as long as he had the traditional "bars" over the windows of his home, and kept a good oil cloth in the gun cabinet.

I now live in the Pacific Northwest, where we rust...not tan, and if the rust on guns here is any worse, I am not astute enough to see it.
If anything, I am doing things that will promote the rusting process....go figure.

I would think a swamp cooler in Arizona would rust the huevos off the proverbial brass monkey.

Russ