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Rebore-
- Thread starter Jim Blair
- Start date
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One suggestion is to Google up Rice Barrel Co. in NC, speak to 'Jason' (owner)...in addition to their obvious Rice barrel manufacturing, they may also perform such services...phone # would be on the web site.Scots Jim said:
One suggestion is to Google up Rice Barrel Co. in NC, speak to 'Jason' (owner)...in addition to their obvious Rice barrel manufacturing, they may also perform such services...phone # would be on the web site.Scots Jim said:
jdkerstetter
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Rice may rebore barrels but I have not heard that they do and they don't offer this service on their web-site.
Some barrel manufacturers aren't set up for this service as when making a new barrel it is common now to profile the barrel after boring, centering the barrel on the bore.
I have heard that Rayl offers re-boring but has quite a backlog.
Bobby Hoyt definitely rebores and is affordable and normally doesn't have a long wait.
He can be contacted at:
Bob Hoyt
700 Fairfield Station Rd
Fairfield, PA 17320
(717)642-6696
Enjoy, J.D.
Some barrel manufacturers aren't set up for this service as when making a new barrel it is common now to profile the barrel after boring, centering the barrel on the bore.
I have heard that Rayl offers re-boring but has quite a backlog.
Bobby Hoyt definitely rebores and is affordable and normally doesn't have a long wait.
He can be contacted at:
Bob Hoyt
700 Fairfield Station Rd
Fairfield, PA 17320
(717)642-6696
Enjoy, J.D.
I'm just guessing but it seems to me that Rice probably has his plate full just trying to keep up with the demand for his production barrels.
I would think that Rayl or Hoyt would be more likely to take on what is basically a customizing of a existing barrel.
I would think that Rayl or Hoyt would be more likely to take on what is basically a customizing of a existing barrel.
Ken Rummer
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Bob Hoyt turned my TC 56 smoothbore into a .62 rifled barrel in three weeks at a cost of $60.
jdkerstetter
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What's the point of this lead box thing again other than to create redundency in posting? :shake:
J.D.
J.D.
illuveatar
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Agreed it's a bit annoying to see the same thing echoed over again.
I took my .50cal CVA barrel to my local gunsmith and he's reboring it to .52cal smoothbore. He said it'd cost about $40 but he's got a 3 month backlog. This didn't bother me because I don't plan on using the barrel until this fall.
I took my .50cal CVA barrel to my local gunsmith and he's reboring it to .52cal smoothbore. He said it'd cost about $40 but he's got a 3 month backlog. This didn't bother me because I don't plan on using the barrel until this fall.
"What's the point of this lead box thing again other than to create redundency in posting"
I guess I don't get it, I did hear of a guy once down south who was supposed to bore barrels but when I did some checking around it turns out that he was just plumb boring, poor manners and not much fun to be around or talk to, I believe his name was Gump...Butterball Gump as I recall, had a cousin named Forest.
I guess I don't get it, I did hear of a guy once down south who was supposed to bore barrels but when I did some checking around it turns out that he was just plumb boring, poor manners and not much fun to be around or talk to, I believe his name was Gump...Butterball Gump as I recall, had a cousin named Forest.
jdkerstetter
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:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: ....another remedy for another long day!!! Thanks TG, I needed that!
Always enjoy, J.D.
Always enjoy, J.D.
Ken Rummer
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Address & phone are correct.
I think you need to use the phone for contact.
Don't think he does a website or email.
I think you need to use the phone for contact.
Don't think he does a website or email.
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From Mr. Hoyt: two 58's rebores from old TC swapped around barrels, a 46 recut from a ringed 36 that a scoundrel sold me on the interseine and a 458 fast twist sleeved conversion of a 54 New Englander that had the QLA (counter bored muzzle). He did a fine job on all.
Discussed a small bore long tapered smoothie with him about three months ago and haven't gotten my stuff together yet. But if I get my ground work done on the stock and lock I'm sure he will do it right.
Discussed a small bore long tapered smoothie with him about three months ago and haven't gotten my stuff together yet. But if I get my ground work done on the stock and lock I'm sure he will do it right.
illuveatar said:
You can thank the poster you quoted as he brought it on himself.
The way a Forum works is simple:
A member who makes undesirable comments can be considered undesirable and put on an Ignore List.
While on the Ignore list none of their posts are seen...that's the whole point of an ignore list.
People who don't make undesirable comments are not put on Ignore Lists.
illuveatar
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The comments JD has made on this thread seem acceptable and quite helpful. Your comment was also useful but the info was a carbon copy of his previous post. Do you plan on ignoring the undesirables forever or do they get a chance to redeem themselves ?
While we're talking about reworking a bore could someone describe how to do a jug choke on a smoothbore ?
I understand what a jug choke is but does anyone know what type of tool is used to achieve such a bore choke ? I mentioned it to my gunsmith and he said he'd never done it and suggested putting a bit of choke in the barrel by back boring.
The barrel is a straight octagon 7/8" across the flats and it will be about .52 cal after he removes the rifling. I don't know how safe it would be to remove more barrel wall, I guess he knows what he's doing but I wonder if anyone here has any insight. A jug choke would be a safer thing to do right ? What is a safe wall thickness for a barrel like this ? I'll only use light loads for squirrel and rabbit so I don't think there will be much pressure but I'd like to err on the side of caution here.
While we're talking about reworking a bore could someone describe how to do a jug choke on a smoothbore ?
I understand what a jug choke is but does anyone know what type of tool is used to achieve such a bore choke ? I mentioned it to my gunsmith and he said he'd never done it and suggested putting a bit of choke in the barrel by back boring.
The barrel is a straight octagon 7/8" across the flats and it will be about .52 cal after he removes the rifling. I don't know how safe it would be to remove more barrel wall, I guess he knows what he's doing but I wonder if anyone here has any insight. A jug choke would be a safer thing to do right ? What is a safe wall thickness for a barrel like this ? I'll only use light loads for squirrel and rabbit so I don't think there will be much pressure but I'd like to err on the side of caution here.
jdkerstetter
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From SAAMI from their official glossary:
CHOKE, JUG: A type of shotgun barrel choke, wherein a slight recess is formed in the bore approximately one inch behind the muzzle. The recess causes the shot to gather before leaving the muzzle resulting in a denser pattern.
BACK BORE: A shotgun, chambered for a specified gauge, whose barrel bore diameter is greater than the nominal specified for that gauge, but does not exceed SAAMI maximum.
That being said, I would think Jug Choking would be your best option as the metal is releaved just behind the muzzle of the gun where pressures are at their lowest. The 'smith would use a special reamer, lengths vary but I.I.R.C. the norm is around 2.5" to 4" total. A small amount of metal is removed with the remaining "choke" tapered on both ends. There is very little metal removed and it has been used in very thin round barrels.
There are different definitions out there for backboring. The one listed by SAAMI above is touted by some as simply "overboring" and not true back boring which some say is releaving only the area imediately in front of the chamber...in the case of a muzzle-loader you would have to relieve the whole breach area as they don't have "chambers". Relieving this area may not be practical in a ML barrel as the thinnest portion would be in the highest pressure area of the barrel and you may have to rebreach and go with a bigger plug. Either way your breach/bore is bigger so in essence you just have .53 or .54 caliber at the breach or full length....what's the point? You are, in essence, overboring already by having the barrel reamed out.
Advice on thinnest barrel wall thickness is best solicitated from the 'smith doing the work but I know Getz and probably others have .54's in 7/8" octagon and they have tested safe with full power loads.
Hope that helps. Enjoy, J.D.
P.S. Thanks, but don't bother defending me with Roundball. He stuffed me in the box the first day I was on board I.I.R.C. I can't help him and I have no time for childishness....which is the only way I can explain his "ingnoring" so many people. I do however support school yard humor and good old fashioned teasing. :blah:
CHOKE, JUG: A type of shotgun barrel choke, wherein a slight recess is formed in the bore approximately one inch behind the muzzle. The recess causes the shot to gather before leaving the muzzle resulting in a denser pattern.
BACK BORE: A shotgun, chambered for a specified gauge, whose barrel bore diameter is greater than the nominal specified for that gauge, but does not exceed SAAMI maximum.
That being said, I would think Jug Choking would be your best option as the metal is releaved just behind the muzzle of the gun where pressures are at their lowest. The 'smith would use a special reamer, lengths vary but I.I.R.C. the norm is around 2.5" to 4" total. A small amount of metal is removed with the remaining "choke" tapered on both ends. There is very little metal removed and it has been used in very thin round barrels.
There are different definitions out there for backboring. The one listed by SAAMI above is touted by some as simply "overboring" and not true back boring which some say is releaving only the area imediately in front of the chamber...in the case of a muzzle-loader you would have to relieve the whole breach area as they don't have "chambers". Relieving this area may not be practical in a ML barrel as the thinnest portion would be in the highest pressure area of the barrel and you may have to rebreach and go with a bigger plug. Either way your breach/bore is bigger so in essence you just have .53 or .54 caliber at the breach or full length....what's the point? You are, in essence, overboring already by having the barrel reamed out.
Advice on thinnest barrel wall thickness is best solicitated from the 'smith doing the work but I know Getz and probably others have .54's in 7/8" octagon and they have tested safe with full power loads.
Hope that helps. Enjoy, J.D.
P.S. Thanks, but don't bother defending me with Roundball. He stuffed me in the box the first day I was on board I.I.R.C. I can't help him and I have no time for childishness....which is the only way I can explain his "ingnoring" so many people. I do however support school yard humor and good old fashioned teasing. :blah:
Last edited by a moderator:
"While we're talking about reworking a bore could someone describe how to do a jug choke on a smoothbore ?"
It can be done with a tool specifically made for that purpose and bore size. A honing tool can be used, but I think you would be hard pressed to find one for your bore size. It could be done on a lathe by a competent machinist.
"The barrel is a straight octagon 7/8" across the flats and it will be about .52 cal after he removes the rifling. I don't know how safe it would be to remove more barrel wall, I guess he knows what he's doing but I wonder if anyone here has any insight. A jug choke would be a safer thing to do right ? What is a safe wall thickness for a barrel like this ? I'll only use light loads for squirrel and rabbit so I don't think there will be much pressure but I'd like to err on the side of caution here."
The jug area would probably be .030 max, over finished bore size, or .015 removal all around. This should leave you with over .100 barrel wall thickness in an area where the pressure would be at its least. You shouldn't have any problems with safety provided it is a good barrel to begin with.
Robby
It can be done with a tool specifically made for that purpose and bore size. A honing tool can be used, but I think you would be hard pressed to find one for your bore size. It could be done on a lathe by a competent machinist.
"The barrel is a straight octagon 7/8" across the flats and it will be about .52 cal after he removes the rifling. I don't know how safe it would be to remove more barrel wall, I guess he knows what he's doing but I wonder if anyone here has any insight. A jug choke would be a safer thing to do right ? What is a safe wall thickness for a barrel like this ? I'll only use light loads for squirrel and rabbit so I don't think there will be much pressure but I'd like to err on the side of caution here."
The jug area would probably be .030 max, over finished bore size, or .015 removal all around. This should leave you with over .100 barrel wall thickness in an area where the pressure would be at its least. You shouldn't have any problems with safety provided it is a good barrel to begin with.
Robby
In getting .20ga smoothbores jugged over the past several years, I asked about jugging even a smaller bore like a .54cal/.28ga, and was told that it would really take small sized equipment and neither smith I talked to were set up for something that small.
As it turned out, I was able to get excellent patterns in the .54s anyway and dropped the idea.
A reference sketch:
As it turned out, I was able to get excellent patterns in the .54s anyway and dropped the idea.
A reference sketch:
