Repair this barrel lug?

[Onojutta]

I drilled the hole for this barrel lug pretty darn close to the edge. The picture makes it look a litle thicker than it is, but the thickness of the steel is no more than the thickness of a fingernail on the outter edge, and I'm concerned that over time this could break, rust away, etc. This is the first lug near the muzzle so it can be seen from the ramrod channel, and my chief concern is that if it ever does degrade, it will become an eyesore. Otherwise it presently holds the pin just fine. Would you repair this, or leave it be? Is there a good way to repair it, or would I be better off just replacing it?

 

[kyron4]

Soldered on ? I would just replace it if it was just a matter of soldering a new one on.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have done this and soft soldered a piece of 1/8" steel over the thin place, as long as the add on isn't in your ramrod channel you are OK.

If you put on a new lug you have to plug the hole in the wood and redrill

I use solder paste; you can't knock what you soldered off with a hammer (I tried).

Solder paste;

 

[Eterry]

I drilled the hole for this barrel lug pretty darn close to the edge. The picture makes it look a litle thicker than it is, but the thickness of the steel is no more than the thickness of a fingernail on the outter edge, and I'm concerned that over time this could break, rust away, etc. This is the first lug near the muzzle so it can be seen from the ramrod channel, and my chief concern is that if it ever does degrade, it will become an eyesore. Otherwise it presently holds the pin just fine. Would you repair this, or leave it be? Is there a good way to repair it, or would I be better off just replacing it?

My first kit I drilled the pin hole and cut the bottom of the tenon. My teacher simply brazed the hole and added a small amount of brass below the tenon. I drilled the hole again, and deepened the notch in the forearm a bit. Still holding after 43 years.

 

[Onojutta]

My first kit I drilled the pin hole and cut the bottom of the tenon. My teacher simply brazed the hole and added a small amount of brass below the tenon. I drilled the hole again, and deepened the notch in the forearm a bit. Still holding after 43 years.

I don't have access to brazing or welding equipment, but would filling the hole with solder and re-drilling it work?

 

[Kevin Houlihan]

I don't have access to brazing or welding equipment, but would filling the hole with solder and re-drilling it work?

Solder is too soft to use to fill the hole. Either replace the whole lug or do as Eric suggested and solder a piece of steel to the thin part and re-drill

 

[Eterry]

I don't have access to brazing or welding equipment, but would filling the hole with solder and re-drilling it work?

I don't see why it wouldn't.

 

[Rob M.]

Naw ... Remove it and solder on a new lug ... Easier anyway ....

 

[Onojutta]

Thanks for all the replies. If I replace the lug, then I run the risk of it not fitting well in the notch that is already cut in the bottom of the barrel channel and a sloppy fit will look bad from the ramrod groove. Using solder will risk the lug coming off when heating and might be too soft, so I might try filling the hole with JB Weld or the product that Eric Krewson mentioned above and starting over with the hole.

 

[SDSmlf]

I don't have access to brazing or welding equipment, but would filling the hole with solder and re-drilling it work?

No. Just not a good repair option.

Thanks for all the replies. If I replace the lug, then I run the risk of it not fitting well in the notch that is already cut in the bottom of the barrel channel and a sloppy fit will look bad from the ramrod groove. Using solder will risk the lug coming off when heating and might be too soft, so I might try filling the hole with JB Weld or the product that Eric Krewson mentioned above and starting over with the hole.

JB Weld or any other epoxy would be way down my list for something to use for a repair of this type. It will hold for a while before failing…. The Solder-It product @Eric Krewson mentioned is available for less than $15 from a number of sources and works. You can add material to the existing lug as the Solder-It product works at low temperatures, or use the Solder-It to secure a replacement lug, my choice. If either option doesn’t fit the stock, use a chisel, Exacto knife or maybe a sharpened screwdriver if you are tool challenged to open things up a bit.

One more time, just replace the lug and avoid all the finkling.

 

[olskool]

I have done this and soft soldered a piece of 1/8" steel over the thin place, as long as the add on isn't in your ramrod channel you are OK.

If you put on a new lug you have to plug the hole in the wood and redrill

I use solder paste; you can't knock what you soldered off with a hammer (I tried).

Solder paste;

View attachment 303661

this stuff really works, i have used it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Eric Krewson]

That solder paste could be used with a candle, match or cigarette lighter; it is low temp stuff.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Put a couple of light index marks on the barrel before you take off the buggered lug. Use the marks to align the new lug before you solder it on.

 

[Onojutta]

Does anyone know where I could source an

Naw ... Remove it and solder on a new lug ... Easier anyway ....

Anyone know where I might source a thick underlug? The ones I have are 1/8" thick but the ones sold by TOTW and MBS are only 1/16" thick.

 

[user 34300]

American Longrifle has a tutorial in the gun making, metal shaping, forum, second page. You can make one out of sheet metal.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=10152.0

 

[Jappo]

Was reading this post as I am wanting to put an under lug and or tenon.

What I’m curious about is what if the lug comes off upon firing the rifle? Has this ever happened to anyone? Looks to me the lug serves a crucial purpose?

 

[Clark Badgett]

Does anyone know where I could source an


Anyone know where I might source a thick underlug? The ones I have are 1/8" thick but the ones sold by TOTW and MBS are only 1/16" thick.

Make you one from folded .062 sheet. They are super easy to make

 

[Jappo]

I have done this and soft soldered a piece of 1/8" steel over the thin place, as long as the add on isn't in your ramrod channel you are OK.

If you put on a new lug you have to plug the hole in the wood and redrill

I use solder paste; you can't knock what you soldered off with a hammer (I tried).

Solder paste;

View attachment 303661

Would this stuff work on the sight of a revolver? I've tried 3 different kinds of epoxy and none hold. Even tried the super duper glue on the market claiming to hold tons. Sight flew off on the first shot.
And I don't have the means to silver solder or cut for a dovetail.

 

[Eric Krewson]

It works just fine for sights. When you use this stuff on a round barrel, wrap 220 sand paper around the barrel with the grit facing out, rub the sight on the sandpaper where you plan to install the sight so the curvature of the sight matches the curvature of the barrel before you solder it on.

The front sight on my fowler, I used solder paste. I cleaned up the excess solder that squeezed out with a small riffler file and sandpaper

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

That first arrow I'm pointing at the slot that was (apparently) filed into the lug. Those slots are a good thing and important as weather\humidity causes the barrel\wood to expand\contract. Those slots prevent the stock from cracking at the pin holes.

My lower arrow ask the "what's this hole for?" Is that where the original hole was drilled and is that where the pin goes through?

So.....

---If the lower hole is where the pin goes through, I'd simply plumber solder on a thin piece of metal to each side of that lug. Then you can re-cut the slot closer to the barrel.

---If the lower hole is "just there" and the pin goes through the slot, then I'd still solder on a piece to each side, while making those pieces a tad higher. As long as you have a bit more room before you break into the RR hole. Even if you break into the RR hole that's no big deal as long as the lug doesn't protrude into the RR hole and jam up the RR. And again...recut the slot.

---In either case, for soldering I would use two pair of small vice grips. Keep a piece of brass or even wood on the opposite side so those VG's won't dig into the metal. DON'T clamp those VG's to the point where your barrel gets crimped!! The VG's clamped properly will prevent the lug from moving should the solder under it become liquid....and the VG's will act as a heat sink to help prevent the lug\barrel connection from getting hot enough to melt that solder.

---I don't see a need for plugging the hole in the stock and relocating the stock hole.