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Restore A Flintlock Pistol

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Joined
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Have an 1801 pistol that I am retiring. I have worked on vintage cars but minimal work on wood. I thing metal is easier because a stuck screw you can easy out or a stuck bolt you can use a bolt cracker. These screws are all exquisitely engraved and need to be protected. I have never restored a vintage pistol and show you what I have done so far. The tools and material I have so far are the following. image.jpg
 
I like GIBBS as it is the only penetrating oil that flat out says it will not harm wood. The soldering gone is continuous so I get steady head. Some guns are intermittent. The Wheeler Screw set is more than I need but the price difference for a smaller set was minimal. I bit a stubby ratchet magnetic screw Driver that has come in handle. I did not know that that there were hollow ground screw drivers until visiting your sight. They are cool in that they seem to break before you bugger the screw. I showed a picture of this. I can find new bits from Brownelles who has replacements.
 
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Good question !! Beyond all the modern items I see only a fine looking pistol that dosn't need anything doing to it except leaving it alone . at which point its just a worry as to what your thinking about . I see its a John Manton What do you think needs restoration?
Rudyard
 
I have seen pistols in well controlled situations that look as new. I am just trying to bring it back like the cars I have restored over the year. I don't want it better than new. I want to remove years of crap without loosing the entitled patina.
 
Here is a broken bit. I know that I am probably boring a lot of you but this might be helpful to someone.
 

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My first job was to remove the two screws of the trigger guard. This took 4 weeks total. I hit it twice a day with GIBBS and tried to turn the screw. No go. The I tapped the screwdriver with a nylon hammer. No go. Then I heated the screws with a soldering gun and the screws moved slightly. I was going to put in the drill press and turn by hand the the chucked screw bit into the heads but decided to heat the screws more. It worked.
 

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The trigger guard is completly oxidized. The base of the trigger plate at some point has been slathered with varnish or shellack and the base that connects with the wood stock is buried under this stuff. I am going to use a low heat heat gun and fly line to go between to metal base and wood so as not to hurt the underlying wood. I am going to start this today. Any advice would be helpful.
 

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Sir , at the risk of sounding like a jerk, if this project is over your head, you should send it to a professional. I have seen many old collectible guns drop in value though unskilled people. I think your pistol is in good shape, and any restoration might drop it’s value. Once again, I apologize if I’ve offended you.
 
Dear Tumbler This seems to be one of two posts ? But the pistol looks fine are you thinking like a car restorer getting it looking new? Other than a new rod it looks just fine its not a motor car there are waxes that will improve any scratches way better idea than refinishing it .. I might becoming across as rude & doubting your skills ( You are asking for opinions as to your kit and admit lack of experiance ) But John Manton was a renowned top London maker . Not some homespun back blocks concern It is a highly desirable and Important piece. May I suggest you read' The Mantons' by Neale & Back which details many of the known surviving guns by these brothers . Joseph gets the glory but Johns firm where steady and first class and didn't go bankcrupt.
Regards if concerned Rudyard
 
If you are wanting a shooter, pedersoli makes many high quality flintlock pistols. But it’s your gun, so......
 
With all do respect and I sincerely mean that I am a self taught restoration specialist of British and Italian sports cars of 50 years. I have read the two books on the Manton Brothers as well as the suppliment. There are professional cars that are restored right and there are gunsmiths that restore these vintage firearms. Since I am new maybe I won't put anyone out to say I have a website on the Ferrari Daytona, restored a Daytona and a Lusso, showed cars ,judged cards and buy and sell cars. I have over the years been told I don't have the experience to do something. I'm used to it. I hope I have not offended any one or try to seem too big for my britches. I believe I can use my car experience background to do this project. I hope I am right. I defenately would welcome any input.
 
Dear Tumbler This seems to be one of two posts ? But the pistol looks fine are you thinking like a car restorer getting it looking new? Other than a new rod it looks just fine its not a motor car there are waxes that will improve any scratches way better idea than refinishing it .. I might becoming across as rude & doubting your skills ( You are asking for opinions as to your kit and admit lack of experiance ) But John Manton was a renowned top London maker . Not some homespun back blocks concern It is a highly desirable and Important piece. May I suggest you read' The Mantons' by Neale & Back which details many of the known surviving guns by these brothers . Joseph gets the glory but Johns firm where steady and first class and didn't go bankcrupt.
Regards if concerned Rudyard
I have the rod.
 
I would work slowly and methodically on disassembling this pistol. I would have it xrayed to see exactly how it is held together. If you take your time, I’m sure you can do a good job with advice from the members on this forum. I would resist any temptation to make the gun look like new. Hell, I’d probably shoot it if the barrel is safe.
 
And I seem to remember that old English flintlocks had the flint cocks hardened to the point that they might crack? Something to research. Feltwad or Dave Person will respond to help I hope....
 
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