Restore A Flintlock Pistol

[Tumbler]

And I seem to remember that old English flintlocks had the flint cocks hardened to the point that they might crack? Something to research. Feltwad or Dave Person will respond to help I hope....

I would appreciate it.

 

[Sam squanch]

Do you do cut rate medical x rays on the side?

 

[Tumbler]

If you are wanting a shooter, pedersoli makes many high quality flintlock pistols. But it’s your gun, so......

Thanks I will look into that.

 

[Tumbler]

Do you do cut rate medical x rays on the side?

Kinda

 

[Tumbler]

I would work slowly and methodically on disassembling this pistol. I would have it xrayed to see exactly how it is held together. If you take your time, I’m sure you can do a good job with advice from the members on this forum. I would resist any temptation to make the gun look like new. Hell, I’d probably shoot it if the barrel is safe.

Well it took four weeks to remove two friggen screws.

 

[Sam squanch]

That’s the spirit!

 

[Jaeger]

Just don't chrome plate the barrel...

 

[Zonie]

My apologies to Tumbler and the rest of our members.

This thread was originally two separate threads and I feel they should all be contained in one place, together.
With this in mind, I merged the two threads into this one thread.
That seems to have jumbled the order of some of the posts so while reading this thread, please take that into account before you make a remark to something.

 

[Tumbler]

my advice is as others...... leave it alone. By removing the patina, you’re removing it’s value .
But, carry on if you wish.

There is patina and there is crap. I plan to remove the crap and retain the petina.

 

[Tumbler]

Just don't chrome plate the barrel...

Luckily the barrel was browned when I got it. But I am planning to put racing stripes on it.

 

[Tumbler]

My apologies to Tumbler and the rest of our members.

This thread was originally two separate threads and I feel they should all be contained in one place, together.
With this in mind, I merged the two threads into this one thread.
That seems to have jumbled the order of some of the posts so while reading this thread, please take that into account before you make a remark to something.

Thanks!

 

[Rudyard]

Getting that guard finial free will likely pull of wood from the inletting . I'me sure your a whizz on motor cars items I know little about nor much care for . I hope I'me whittling for nothing The raceing stripes dig hasn't got me jumping up & down . I feel sure its but jest .Though you might put a mock up just to **** a snook (.I would probably.!) However I think basically you mean well & are taking great care it just seems well enough as it is . You sought opinions & that's mine
.Regards Rudyard

 

[Sam squanch]

Good luck on your project. Any interest in x raying other people’s restoration puzzles for a few?

 

[Sam squanch]

I mean a FEE...

 

[Tumbler]

Good luck on your project. Any interest in x raying other people’s restoration puzzles for a few?

No problem. If you are serious I’ll xray anything you want no charge. I can send you a CD.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Tumbler,
The engraved screws are usually quite soft so be very careful. Using heat from a soldering iron is a good idea to help loosen them but try not to destroy any heat coloring originally applied. Be careful about scraping away any varnish unless you are absolutely sure it is some later addition. The steel hardware was likely charcoal blued and sometimes a varnish was applied over the metal to preserve the color, which can fade over time. A light cleaning is not a bad thing but too vigorous and it can ruin details and destroy historical value. Hopefully, you don't plan to re-brown the stub twist barrel. I assume there is one lock bolt. The lock almost certainly has a hook or lug on the front that catches a stud imbedded in the lock mortice. Be very careful removing the lock. Loosen the bolt and then tap it gently to push the lock out. It is going to still be caught in the front so it will come out at a slight angle and may snag brittle 200 year old wood
along the way. Just tap a little, inspect, tap a little more, inspect, etc. I also recommend placing the lock at half **** and engaging the sliding safety bolt before attempting to remove the lock. Over 200 years of age and wear may allow the hook on the mainspring to drop a little lower in the mortice possibly snagging wood on the bottom. By placing the lock at half **** before removing, you should avoid that risk. If you clean the checkering, use a soft brush because 200 year old wood can be brittle and you could chip off a diamond.


dave

 

[Carl in France]

John Manton was a fine gunsmith and a clever man to boot. His pistols are definately worth owning .......but possibly not if restored. By removing the crap you may well destroy its value totally. Guns are not like cars.
Plus theree is a very high likelyhood that you will crack or split a screw when removing it. Do not forget that the metal used 180 odd years ago is not going to be as you find on todays guns.
But....it is yours.

 

[Oldbear63]

I would suggest that you show it to a museum curator or antique firearms specialist and get advice. Perhaps they might be able to convince you to stop trying to "improve" it and let it remain as a historical artifact with its history written on its patina and remaining grime.

There are modern replicas (and you could make one yourself) that would love to be fired.

 

[TFoley]

My apologies to Tumbler and the rest of our members.

This thread was originally two separate threads and I feel they should all be contained in one place, together.
With this in mind, I merged the two threads into this one thread.
That seems to have jumbled the order of some of the posts so while reading this thread, please take that into account before you make a remark to something.

Mrs tac often accuses me of doing the same thing when I'm talking to two different people...

 

[TFoley]

I have seen pistols in well controlled situations that look as new. I am just trying to bring it back like the cars I have restored over the year. I don't want it better than new. I want to remove years of crap without loosing the entitled patina.

You seem to have missed the point entirely, Sir. Your cars are not now, and never will be, a totally handmade item from well over two hundred years ago with its maker's hand on each and every piece. Those 'years of crap' ARE the history of this rare survivor from a bygone age. Remove it and you've erased not only the years but a huge percentage of the value, even though you may not be intent on selling it, perhaps one day there will be somebody who would.

My two Sniders look pretty good, and their bores are immaculate from end to end, but I would no more think of dismantling them to give them a good clean and refinish than I would try to fly unaided.

Still, it's your pistol, and you must do what you want, however upsetting it might be to other people.