Restore A Flintlock Pistol

[Grenadier1758]

I'd like to see more pictures of the black handled object on the right. Is that a brass cover for a nipple pick? Is that a shoulder for a ferrule for a turn screw?

I'm pretty confident of the other items.

 

[Tumbler]

Hi Tumbler,
The black object is a handle that once held a turnscrew. The vent pick would slip over the blade and stick in a hole in the handle. Here is a photo of a modern example. Often the turnscrew blades were made from broken mainsprings as this one is.

dave

Thanks Dave.

 

[Tumbler]

Hi,
Here is a short tutorial about making correct case hooks for a pistol case using the Delft clay casting system.
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4843.msg45540#msg45540Here is the one-way powder flask:
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=5811.msg54378#msg54378dave

What a great tutorial! I have a project to make a correct pistol case. Dave, you have a tutorial too?

 

[Tumbler]

I would load it and shoot it.

What kind of rust prevention will you use? Are you familiar with Fluid Film?

What do you use on the wood?

You warmed the screws to get them to finally let go, did you consider inductive heating?

I saw damage in reviewing photos, has anyone else?

Are you going to apply your skills to another project?

Thanks

Dave

Dave, I am using Ballistol. What I like about it is that it will not harm wood. I used it on the metal parts and the wood stock and am pleased with the results. I know it is an oil. I wipe it down thoroughly and it leaves a thin protective film. I looked at Fluid Film. I didn't see that it is safe on wood. Have you used it on wood? I believe that inductive heating requires that a wire is wrapped around the screw from head to tip. As the threaded tip is in the wood I do not understand how this application to remove a screw will work. Can you show me the damage to the pistol? Yes I am going to make a proper case for the pistol with Dave's link to the above tutorial.

 

[Tumbler]

I'd like to see more pictures of the black handled object on the right. Is that a brass cover for a nipple pick? Is that a shoulder for a ferrule for a turn screw?

I'm pretty confident of the other items.

I'll get more pictures for you.

 

[Tumbler]

Mr Tumbler - a beautiful job.

Thanks!

 

[Tumbler]

Hi,
Here is a short tutorial about making correct case hooks for a pistol case using the Delft clay casting system.
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4843.msg45540#msg45540Here is the one-way powder flask:
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=5811.msg54378#msg54378dave

Ooops wrong Dave. Thanks for the tutorial.

 

[Davey Boy]

DSCN0350[1].JPG

The ramrod guide tapers to a flame type point.

It looks like the point is broken off and the wood looks like it is inlet for the point that is missing.

I'm using for focal glasses now so the higher resolution pictures are spiffy for magnifying. Thus my request for larger file size.

As to Fluid Film, can't say I have used it just for wood. It's really good for stopping corrosion and damage to metals from handling with skin contact. It's lanolin based and I can tell you, after sheep rubbed up against the same fence pole, you have never seen a better preserved piece of wood and smooth - wow don't say a word.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Yes, I posted the pistol case tutorial above. It is in 5 parts. Unfortunately, my wife Gail, died in 2012, so I no longer have her to guide me with the lining. However, she taught me well and the tricks for lining that we show in the tutorial are worth their weight in gold and probably the only information of that kind and quality available anywhere in the world. The case we made was the equal of any of the finest cases made in the 18th or early 19th centuries. There are 2 changes from that tutorial, however, that I now incorporate when making cases. The first is I use hide or pearl glue for attaching the lining. That is the traditional glue and it is applied hot. It has 3 very important qualities, other than it works as a glue. It allows quite a bit of working time before it sets so you can tug and push the fabric around to fit. It is viscous so it fills gouges and rough spots in the underlying wood so you don't have to smooth that surface so much as we did in the tutorial case. Finally, it can be loosened with steam so repairs to the lining are easily made. The third change concerns the finger joints. In subsequent years I examined more cases and period furniture and discovered that what I thought were parallel sided finger joints were actually subtle hand cut dovetails. Dovetails from that period, which were all hand cut, do not have the distinct angles of modern work. The angles are very subtle and often obscured by old blackened finish.

On English-style cases, most modern repros get it badly wrong and produce cases that I call "TV dinner" trays. The partitions on fine original cases were designed to cradle the pistols and hold them securely so they did not rattle around during travel. The cases were not for display, rather they were made to protect the pistols during travel. The pistols should fit snug and in a slight "V" cradle formed by partitions that are tapered. Finally, because the cases were meant for protection during travel, they were sold with protective leather outer coverings. Obviously few of those survive so when I made my first example, the leather was thinner than it should be but the design was bang on.

dave

 

[Davey Boy]

Excuse the %#$@+ computer for auto correcting my words.

I use tri focal glasses

Good grief

 

[Tumbler]

I'd like to see more pictures of the black handled object on the right. Is that a brass cover for a nipple pick? Is that a shoulder for a ferrule for a turn screw?

I'm pretty confident of the other items.

 

[Tumbler]

Hi Tumbler,
The black object is a handle that once held a turnscrew. The vent pick would slip over the blade and stick in a hole in the handle. Here is a photo of a modern example. Often the turnscrew blades were made from broken mainsprings as this one is.

Hi,
Yes, I posted the pistol case tutorial above. It is in 5 parts. Unfortunately, my wife Gail, died in 2012, so I no longer have her to guide me with the lining. However, she taught me well and the tricks for lining that we show in the tutorial are worth their weight in gold and probably the only information of that kind and quality available anywhere in the world. The case we made was the equal of any of the finest cases made in the 18th or early 19th centuries. There are 2 changes from that tutorial, however, that I now incorporate when making cases. The first is I use hide or pearl glue for attaching the lining. That is the traditional glue and it is applied hot. It has 3 very important qualities, other than it works as a glue. It allows quite a bit of working time before it sets so you can tug and push the fabric around to fit. It is viscous so it fills gouges and rough spots in the underlying wood so you don't have to smooth that surface so much as we did in the tutorial case. Finally, it can be loosened with steam so repairs to the lining are easily made. The third change concerns the finger joints. In subsequent years I examined more cases and period furniture and discovered that what I thought were parallel sided finger joints were actually subtle hand cut dovetails. Dovetails from that period, which were all hand cut, do not have the distinct angles of modern work. The angles are very subtle and often obscured by old blackened finish.

On English-style cases, most modern repros get it badly wrong and produce cases that I call "TV dinner" trays. The partitions on fine original cases were designed to cradle the pistols and hold them securely so they did not rattle around during travel. The cases were not for display, rather they were made to protect the pistols during travel. The pistols should fit snug and in a slight "V" cradle formed by partitions that are tapered. Finally, because the cases were meant for protection during travel, they were sold with protective leather outer coverings. Obviously few of those survive so when I made my first example, the leather was thinner than it should be but the design was bang on.

Beautiful work Dave.

 

[Tumbler]

Hi Tumbler,
The black object is a handle that once held a turnscrew. The vent pick would slip over the blade and stick in a hole in the handle. Here is a photo of a modern example. Often the turnscrew blades were made from broken mainsprings as this one is.

dave

I found this item in my reproduction parts. The handle and this piece go together to make a turn screw. Thanks Dave!

 

[Tumbler]

Hi,
Yes, I posted the pistol case tutorial above. It is in 5 parts. Unfortunately, my wife Gail, died in 2012, so I no longer have her to guide me with the lining. However, she taught me well and the tricks for lining that we show in the tutorial are worth their weight in gold and probably the only information of that kind and quality available anywhere in the world. The case we made was the equal of any of the finest cases made in the 18th or early 19th centuries. There are 2 changes from that tutorial, however, that I now incorporate when making cases. The first is I use hide or pearl glue for attaching the lining. That is the traditional glue and it is applied hot. It has 3 very important qualities, other than it works as a glue. It allows quite a bit of working time before it sets so you can tug and push the fabric around to fit. It is viscous so it fills gouges and rough spots in the underlying wood so you don't have to smooth that surface so much as we did in the tutorial case. Finally, it can be loosened with steam so repairs to the lining are easily made. The third change concerns the finger joints. In subsequent years I examined more cases and period furniture and discovered that what I thought were parallel sided finger joints were actually subtle hand cut dovetails. Dovetails from that period, which were all hand cut, do not have the distinct angles of modern work. The angles are very subtle and often obscured by old blackened finish.

On English-style cases, most modern repros get it badly wrong and produce cases that I call "TV dinner" trays. The partitions on fine original cases were designed to cradle the pistols and hold them securely so they did not rattle around during travel. The cases were not for display, rather they were made to protect the pistols during travel. The pistols should fit snug and in a slight "V" cradle formed by partitions that are tapered. Finally, because the cases were meant for protection during travel, they were sold with protective leather outer coverings. Obviously few of those survive so when I made my first example, the leather was thinner than it should be but the design was bang on.

dave

I am sorry for the passing of your wife. I will search for your tutorial.

 

[Tumbler]

DSCN0350[1].JPG

The ramrod guide tapers to a flame type point.

It looks like the point is broken off and the wood looks like it is inlet for the point that is missing.

I'm using for focal glasses now so the higher resolution pictures are spiffy for magnifying. Thus my request for larger file size.

The John Manton ramrod has the brass end (top). In the second picture the John Manton is on the right. Can you point out what you see?

 

[Tumbler]

If any one would like the left 3 items I'll mail them to you no charge. PM me with your address if interested.
BTW I want to take this moment to thank every one for taking the time to help me.

 

[toot]

just outstanding!!

 

[Davey Boy]

I am thrilled to learn about casting metal from the box hook work. I am going to get some of the necessary materials and give a try at it.

I also am going to order some Ballistol oil.

The Fluid Film I use is also food safe.

And since cars were mentioned... I was into antique cars for a while and read every book I could. One book with a title like Motorman's guide to repair from like 1909 said iodine could be used to remove stuck valves in an overheated motor. The same iodine I used to paint cuts with. I had an old motor (1935 Plymouth 6 cylinder) with stuck valves, couldn't pound the ones out that were open with a sledge hammer on an oak block. Poured iodine around each valve and the next morning the valves came out like they had never been stuck. My father was absolutely shocked.

 

[Tumbler]

If any one would like the left 3 items I'll mail them to you no charge. PM me with your address if interested.
BTW I want to take this moment to thank every one for taking the time to help me.

Now that I know what it is I am keeping the last item on the right. Sorry. Paul

 

[Tumbler]

just outstanding!!

Thanks!