revolver lube

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1/3 unsalted Crisco 1/3 Bees wax and 1/3 olive oil. Adjust with beeswax to outside temperature.
 
bkovire said:
just wondering of your 58's do you have the brass frame what is the thing i am doing wrong , here the problem, after 10 shots the cyl freezes and the cyl pin sticks i have tried lube, no lube, olive oil, Crisco, ball butter ,wonder lube, moose juice, dry wads, lubed wads, one wad, 2 wads and nothing works or is it just me or the pistol oh i use 20-25 g of 3f goex. any thoughts? :idunno: and yes i do use lube on the RB's.
Well, I know I'm gonna catch a truckload of crap for this, but here goes:
(deep breath)...Use Pyrodex and your cylinder will not freeze up. It (unlike Holy Black ) is non-progressive fouling. I have shot all afternoon with my Remmie and never even so much as swabbed the barrel. And at the end of the day, the cylinder pin slides right out.
There...I said it. :shocked2:
 
tac said:
Sir, are you sure you wouldn't like to re-arrange a few of the words in your first sentence? :shocked2:

Just sayin'...

tac
Oh Lord, Tac... I had the same thought, but didn't want to say anything!

bkovire said:
just wondering of your 58's do you have the brass frame what is the thing i am doing wrong , here the problem, after 10 shots the cyl freezes and the cyl pin sticks ...
Try running down to autozone or some such and grab a can of lithium grease. Works great, even when it's full of powder, dirt, or whatever. Even better would be lubriplate spray lube "A." Expensive as heck ($+-30/can) last I saw, but well worth it, and it'll last you forever since you don't need much.
 
I agree with you about the Pyrodex.

The first few shots will produce some fouling on all of the metal parts around the chamber but after this is done additional shots do not add to the fouling.

I've run over 40 shots thru my percussion rifle in a days shoot without wiping the bore once and loading the 40th felt just like loading the 3rd.

The same can be said about my Remington-Beals 1858 revolver.
 
Another thread recently mentioned putting drops of oil around the seated ball as a sealer and I thought I'd try it. I use lubed wads under the ball but wanted lube in front too; olive oil in a small dropper bottle was suggested.
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I made a plug from soft maple and used mechanic's wire for a dropper. The loop holds one drop and touching it to the edge of a seated ball causes capillary action to draw the oil entirely around the juncture of ball and chamber. The oil is there held "captive" and doesn't run out.
016.JPG
 
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Hey how do you guys lube your revolvers? I was thinking about trying to figure out some way to make "lube cookies" or something like that so that when it is all loaded up I can just place the "cookie" over top of the ball and be done with it. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I melt beeswax and add olive oil or jojoba about 50/50. Lay two sheets of paper towel in the bottom of a bread pan and pour the mix over it. When it cools I cut the pills out with a sharpened .45-70 case. I’ve drilled out the primer pocket so I can use a 1/4” rod to push the pills back out of the case. Sprinkle a bit of cornstarch on the sheet before cutting so they don’t stick together.
Most of the time I don’t use lubes unless I plan on firing 5 or more cylinders full. I shoot Colts and they run just fine without lube.
 
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I have used pure Tallow but it was cold out.

Otherwise,I shoot a lot of bullets and I just lube the bullets.

Or use felt wads. I'm in no hurry when I shoot the percussion revolvers, a couple cylinders then I'll wipe the pin/forcing cone/cylinder face.
 
I was using my 51 Navies and paper cartridges(which contain Gatofeo lube) at a Cowboy shoot last year. Got to the sixth and final stage and after loading I shot the front of the cylinders with Ballistol. Had my one and only weak report. Don't know why I did that as the guns were still functioning fine. I have been experimenting with the paper cartridges for about 4 years now and that was the first such occurrence. I now use a small bottle containing olive oil that I can directly apply to the arbor if necessary.
 
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