It should be shooting just slightly high at 30-yards, higher yet at 50-yards, and dead on at 100-yards, or wherever the rifle was originally zeroed in at. Usually if you get near 2000 fps, you can get the ball to point of aim at 100 yards and only about 2" to 3" high at 50-yards.
Before you start messing with the sights though, I'd suggest you work on your load a bit more. Typically at 25-yards (or 30-yards in your example), when shooting from a rest you should be looking at an inch group or so. Check your patches to make sure they don't have any cuts in them or burn-through spots and if they don't, then you need to back off a bit on the powder charge and slowly work your way back up again. Start at about 50-grains and work your way up 5-grains at a time until the group is tight. You will want to take 3 to 5-shots with each load before moving on to the next.
Once that group comes back together, continue adding 5-grains at a time until it starts to open up again. Then you will know what the minimum accurate load and maximum accurate load is for that rifle. After you've established those two loads, then start shooting at the 50-yard targets to see where the group goes.
At 50-yards, it should still shoot high, though not as much as your picture. At that point, it depends on whether you want to zero it at 50-yards which will give you in the vicinity of a 7½" of drop at 100-yards; zero at 75 yards with about 4¼" of drop at 100-yards; or dead-on at 100 yards, which will shoot about 3.7" high at 50-yards. So it's all a compromise and the right distance depends upon your hunting conditions.
But get those groups tighter at 25 or 30-yards before you start adjusting or replacing your sights.
Twisted_1in66:thumbsup:
Dan