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Don B

40 Cal.
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I'm planning to build a round ball trap that uses a 45deg steel plate behind the target to deflect the balls into a bucket of sand for recovery. How thick would you think the steel plate would need to be to withstand a .54 ball over a max load?

Don
 
Depends on what you call a max load.

3/8 should probably do it though.

A friend used to shoot 45 acp in his garage, using a home made bullet trap made of 1/4 inch steel. that bullet trap also took hits from a 45-70 and 54 RB, with relatively mild loads with little to no problems.

The main problem was that the trap was only about 12 inches square. Shooting in the garage ceased when he missed the trap and put a round through the back of his garage.
 
At anywhere near max load, when the ball hits the steel plate it's going to splatter. Our club has several steel diciplines that utilize commercially available steel plates. My suggestion would be to do a little research on sites that cater to steel shooters, like[url] www.actiontarget.com[/url] . They are a manufacturer of steel for the IPSC shooting community, and their tel. is 801-705-9113. I'm sure they would be very helpfull. Their customers shoot pistols, rifles and shotgun steel matches.

Hope this helps, Dave
 
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Mild steel 3/8" plate should work 1/2" would be better..I've shot 1/4" plate with a large varity of calibers black powder and smokeless centerfire..22 hornet won't go through at 100 yards..223 will with 55 gr. bullets but not with 50 gr.30/30 can part of the time..308,30/06,300 win mag,25/06,270,243,22-250 220 swift every time.357mag,44 mag never,even out 14" contender barrels,jacketed or cast bullets.44mag with cast 245 gr.bullet at 1650 fps puts a good dent but don't make it through.With the pistols this was at 25 yards.That would be close to .54 roundball velocity.45/70 at 25 yards 500 gr hornady's at 1750 fps won't go through,huge dents though.None of the 350 or 400 gr. bullets would make it either.Now the 300 gr. hornady's did but they were going 2300 fps.All 45/70's were out of a ruger no.3.All the .50 and .54 roundballs I shot at the plate made a lead colored mark.All hits were at 90 degrees not angled at all.
 
If you have acesses to any conveyor belt material rubber about 1/2- 3/4 inch thick I would make a bout 3 or 4 certains hanging 6 inches apart in your trap should slow the RB down without splatting it recovering it in the bottom. I'm planeing to build one out of an old oil tank 200 galon.Regards Fisher King.
 
Thank you all for your responses. I'm concerned that if the balls splatter on contact, the design is fatally flawed. Do you think they would splatter on 45deg contact with the plate, vs. head-on? I'd hope they would just get re-directed into the sandbox below the plate.

Fisher King, I like your idea for rubber curtains, but would think that the front one (at least) would get shredded pretty quickly, no?

Don
 
Use a big block of wood. When it gets shot up pretty bad, soak it with barbeque lighter and burn it sitting on a piece of sheet metal. The lead will be on the bottom when the fire is done, with everything else floating on top of it.
 
The conveior belt is preaty tough it used for rock crushers and such. we have a conveior belt plant in town and some friends that work there so I can preaty much get the ends for free. If you have any rock quaries around they might have some old stuff around saves them a dumping fee. Just a thought :thumbsup: Fisher King.
 
If your goal is to merely contain the lead, than why would you care about splatter? If your goal is to look at the lead to see how round it now isn't, then just use sand itself. You would be very surprised to learn how many inches of sand is actually penetrated by heavy caliber fire. :shocked2: Answer is not much! :blah:

I just shot my Lyman Trade Rifle .50 cal. the other day with 370 gr. Maxi's using 70 gr. 3F Goex. This load was chronographed at l349 feet per second just in front of the muzzle. Ballistics are similar to a 20 ga. 3/4 ounce rifled slug used on deer here in Jersey. Yes the rifle does kick a little too...but I LIKE IT! I was able to dig into about 3-4 inches of compressed sand using a scrap piece of 1x2 target frame to retrieve my still-warm chunk of lead that now measured 3-4 times it's original .50 cal. width :haha: .

Just remember that the Armed Forces still use good-ol fashioned sand-bags for a reason :rotf: .

Hope this helps! FIRE FOR EFFECT!! :shocked2: Dave
 
Smokin': My intention is only to capture and re-use the lead. I suppose the question is how big are splatter fragments? I imagined them too small to separate from the sand, but maybe not?

Don
 
Lead is heavier than sand. Place a container of sand mixed with very small lead fragments into a fire and you will get lead on the bottom and sand above it. The sand floats on the molten lead.
 
Don B said:
Smokin': My intention is only to capture and re-use the lead. I suppose the question is how big are splatter fragments? I imagined them too small to separate from the sand, but maybe not?

Don
I frequently use a 6" free hanging 1/2" steel plate at my Saturday range sessions...it hangs straight but kicks back/swings back from the impact...even still, all calibers, 50-60grns target loads, 25 & 50yds...swaged balls splatter / disintegrate / disappear.....nothing to pick up...just gray film everywhere on the legs of the A-frame, and in a 4-5 foot wide line of dirt under the hanging target where it was radiating outward 360*.

A fixed 45* angle would have to help but I'm still not sure how much or how easy it'll be to recover the lead.
 
if you are concerned about splatter, then use a 60 degree angle. Also, use 3/8 or 1/2 inch plate, but don't screw the plate down. Let the plate lift up or " bounce " when hit by a big slug, and you will do much less damage to the plate. I recommend 1/2 " plate for those big slugs, and balls. Any thing less, and you eventually get bowling, where the plate gets a big dent from repeated blows. It takes a lot of muscle and sweat to pound those bowls out of the plating with a sledge hammer, and it gets harder and harder to find volunteers to do that kind of work.

Make a steel frame to hold the back plate, but let the plate lift. If you can find rubber conveyor belt material to use a baffles, to slow the balls and bullets, by all means use them. They will be much easier to replace than the large back plate. Put sand at the bottom of the " V ", to catch the balls, and go ahead and use 1/4 " steel for the side walls to contain splatter in the " box ". Some folks use a half sheet of plate( 4' x 4' and angle it from the bottom of the box up to a point where it meets the backplate The idea is that balls that are deflected downward will hit this tillted base, and bounce around forward and land in the sand for easy retrieval. The angle is usually somethingin the range of 10-15 degrees sloped upward, rather than the steeper 60 degree angle of the back plate. You can also leave a gap between the back edges of the two plates, and then weld a Steel pipe cut open to accept the lead spatters, and bullets to the two plates. That makes a true bullet trap, Like the old Detroit Bullet Traps, only one for rifles.
 
Roundball and Paul, I had planned to let the plate swing up from its 45deg resting position, for the reasons you've suggested.

Paul, I understand the benefit of 60deg rather than 45deg. Do you believe that I'd get big enough chunks of lead to be able to sift them from the sand using your two-bounce trap?

The design of the trap is getting complicated and less portable by the minute. I'm beginning to lean toward Runners idea for a sacrificial block of wood, maybe a bolted together sandwich of 2x10s. The area behind the 1" circle would take quite a beating, of course. :haha:

Don
 
Paul, U build-em and I'll sell-em and together we'll make a million $! :) .

What a GREAT idea, Why can't I buy one at Cabels's?

Hope nobody uses a trap like this in their basement...already another thread about indoor BP :shocked2: .

All the best, Dave
 
Like Roundball said. Steel plate, even ones that swing, pretty much explodes roundball. You get splatters much bigger than caliber on the plate and a line of torn up dirt under the target where the fragments hit. Even on swinging plate, all of the fragments do not go straight down. The line cut in the ground will be around 4 or five feet long. Sand bags or a wood block are the only portable methods that I know of to recover your lead. Be warned also. What a light loaded 50 caliber rifle with a roundball will do to a pistol target that is rated for up to 40 caliber modern pistol has to be seen to be believed. I have one here that I tried it on! The targets like wood or sand bags absorb the energy rather than stopping it. Most of the lead is in big pieces. The lead itself stacks up under the more stressed parts of the target slowing destruction of the target in those areas. For the environmental folks, the lead enters the target in one piece. There is very little lead released into the air. A big stump with 25 pounds of lead pounded into it isn't very portable either, but it is easier than the other choices.
 
I just have a mound of sand behind my target. I retrieve my lead and as smoken.50 said you will be surprised how far they go into the sand. It works for me.
 
This may be just one of my many hair-brained ideas but I use metal fence post driven into the ground as a target holder. They are spaced so that a 36x48x2.5 cardboard box slides over them and then the targets are taped to the face of the box. I thought about using Kevlar fabric and making a sock that would attach to the post. The end of the sock would be temporarily closed so that it could be emptied after a shooting session. My thought is that the sock would be 20-30 feet in length and hang loose behind the target frame. Would this work and where do you buy Kevlar (I don’t think the general public can buy it)?
 
Have you ever seen a Snail bullet trap? It is a tube of steel that has an entrance funnel. Then the bullet is slowed down by making laps around the inside of the tube, until it just drops into a catch basin at the bottom. The NRA uses them at the headquarters firing range. They can be vented to catch the dreaded air born lead particles. Seems to me the company that made them had a home shooter's model. :hmm:
 
guys this is really ironic that i came across this post today. past several days i have been doing some research on bullet traps or ideas for them. primarily was going to use one for my rimfire experiences, but was going to beef it up to handle my 30/30 , dads .303, and my black powder 32 and 50 cal. i weld and fabricate for a living and have scraps most of the time. So i am interested in any more thoughts you may have. the idea of the angled backplate that would "give" may just have some merit. due to my long hours and distance to the range or dads farm, i find myself needing to shoot inside my shop once in a while. i can just about put a 100 yard range inside this building, so for me a bullet trap would be the cats meow.

keep the ideas flowing, maybe i can get started on fabing something up.

thanks,
duke21
 

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