Router bit

[wolfers]

Does anyone make a router bit for laying in a barrel channel? If not what is the best way to do it?

Thanks

 

[longcruise]

I think you could use a regular 45 deg pointed bit as long as it is not wider than the barrel. You could also grind the point off. Not sure how that would work. None of these two suggestions have i actually done. :redface:

But, I've done several with a straight round flat ended bit by doing firs the side wals to correct diameter and only to the depth of the sidewalls and then the bottom flat to depth but only to it's correct width. Leaves two channels. Then remove the remainder to a 45 deg angle to match the bottom diagonal flats. This works but requres care in handling the router. Small mistakes with chisels are usually smalll in consequences. Small mistakes with a router can have large consequences! :shocked2:

 

[TARL01]

I've seen them on the net. I think Brownell's has them. I know they have "Barrel Bedding Tools", but those are hand powered (and better, I think). I think most of the guys on the forum would agree that using a power tool for hogging out the channel completely would be a mistake as it is too easy to slip up and even a minor, quick slip could be disasterous. :cursing:
It might be better to use two different bits to do the job. One for the depth and one for width.
In fact, one of the fellows here just posted about doing that just yesterday I think.
Good luck,
Woody

 

[Zonie]

Someone probably makes them but it sounds like a recipe for disaster to me if it is used in a router, especially with woods like Curly Maple.

IMO, it would be very easy to chip out or tear a large piece of wood out unless it was used in very light cutting passes. Even doing this if it was cutting the full form at one time it seems like it would be real easy for some kick back to happen and if it did it could gouge out a large area to one side basically ruining the stock.

 

[Bubba45]

Ive used a router with a straight bit for sides and center then a 45 deg for bottem angled flats . I used a piece of 2" angle iron about 16" long 'C' clamped to router base for a guide on side of blank . Taking no more than 1/16" cuts and going slow it was quite easy although nerve racking !

Ive used this method for oct/round channels going undersize and finishing with chisels and scrapers also.

 

[Bill Hall]

Routers really scare me, for some of the reasons Zonie mentioned. For straight octogon barrels, I like to use a table saw. It won't cut everything out, but gives a good start and leaves corners to aim at for finishing with a chisel. I leave the channel long for a little "dummy" wood at the front, to test the cuts before I run through the whole cut. After the basic chiseling, I use transfer medium to scrape out the high spots. Always comes out skin tight if I leave the vertical sides alone. Bill.

 

[ebiggs1]

As a cabinetmaker, I am pretty comfortable using routers. I have done several “practice” barrel channels to make sure I can do it. They say cabinetmakers make more jigs and practice runs than actual product! I guess that may be true. :grin: I have seen a bit from someone here on the forum but I don’t remember who it was. It had the exact barrel profile but a bit that size will require a high power (3 HP) router and small passes I suspect. The “practice” barrel channels I have done are better than I can do with a chisel but I suppose its whatever you a comfortable with.

 

[Robby]

Wolf, Woodworkers Supply carries a Woodtek, carbide, top bearing,router bit, P/n 881-156, that works, but there is still a lot of chisel and scraper work to get a good final fit.
Robby

 

[mazo kid]

I have made my own from spade bits ground to shape, with the shank cut off to about 2" long. I haven't used them all that often, but they do work. First off, you need to use two fences to keep the stock from wandering. Secondly, you need to take very light cuts...several passes. I also made a similar bit from a 3/8" bit rounded off for the ramrod channel. This needed to be placed in the drill press and run at the highest speed, again using two fences. This only works for blanks. The largest bit I have used is 7/8", I think that for larger barrels, you might need something with more flutes and a more powerful router than my 2 HP.

 

[Tkendrick]

Small mistakes with a router can have large consequences!

Absolutely right on that comment. I have never been the most patient man on this old world, and I have really screwed up some wood working projects over the years with my over-enthusiastic use of a router.

 

[Tinker2]

I have made my own from spade bits ground to shape, with the shank cut off to about 2" long.

Mazo Kid

Yes, me too. I was not going to say it but I made some from spade bits.

I used them for some pistol stock blanks. They worked fine.
Although I didn’t use them in a router. I used them in a home made mill.

I was worried that kickback might bend the shank on a modified spade bit.


Tinker2

 

[Dirk Perry]

It can definitely be done, but like Jim alluded to, and bubba stated,you must climb to your cut, and GO SLOW! Good luck,

 

[Capt. Jas.]

They work best in conjunction with a stock duplicator/inletter :grin:

 

[crockett]

I have also used the plain old 45 degree bit- making multiple passes. As has been stated, you need to make yourself a template which is used in conjunction with a bushing on the router. If you are really careful and experienced in router work you ought to be able to cut a nice barrel channel. Even with a router- depending on the template, you'll have to chisel finish the breech plug area. I personally do better with the router. I would suggest after you get the template done to practice two or three times on some scrap wood. I'm pretty certain all the "kit" gun stocks have the channel cut with a router.
NOW, as far as time, I've heard some folks can start with chisels and do the job in 20 hours. In making the template, etc, you are going to still spend some time so the decision ought to be based on what method you think is best for you. In any event, what's the big hurry, the ace in the hole for most of us is time, take plenty of time, it's often your best asset.