Running ball

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

barebackjack

40 Cal.
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
361
Reaction score
0
How many people here "roll your own"?

What would a guy need to get for basics to be able to do this safely, molds, pots, etc etc?
Ive been looking at some of the equipment and such for doing this, it looks interesting, just wondering about what I would need to be able to do it for equipment. How much money do you save pouring your own?

Thanks

Boone
 
Barebackjack,
Ive been casting for everything I shoot, all handguns, BP and some rifle of the older generations ie 3030, 25-20 ect,
I have always used lee molds, had great results from them and are reasonably priced. I started out with a small lyman cast iron pot, maybe 4 inches wide and 3 deep and a lyman spouted ladle, both reasonable priced from mail order vendors ect. did all this on a coleman stove OUTDOORS.
I have since long ago, procured a lee production pot IV, which now sells for about 50-60 bucks.

To answer your question, you can get a mold and an electric pot for under $100 delivered, used is much less from an online auction center like bay something!

Been following your posts and you are asking very valid ???s.....welcome to this most excellent arena of black powder guns!
 
I started with a really simple set up. No Lee molds back then. I'm not real sure if God was shaving yet?

I did start using Lee molds when they came out and they are the way for a beginner to go for expense and good product.

Lee mold
6" cast iron skillet from the flea market
old coleman stove
old heavy table spoon with broomstick handle for dipper
old hammer handle to break sprue

What do you save? I would say they could be considered free after the first 300 balls (mold payback), if you scrounge your lead.
 
Lee Production Pot (10-lb model): $65 (dipper not required)
Ingot Mould: $13
Lee Dual Cavity RB Moulds: about $25
Wheel Weights: Free
Pure Lead: $1 - $2/lb

There's a start.
 
Make all mine 32to54 RB& some maxis. Propane stove and cast iron ladle,Lee&Lyman,And TC. Have enought lead to retire Me,Iam 66. Might have some for the grandson. Dilly
 
Just a thought regarding your other questions about caliber...if you're going to get into casting your own round balls which negates the cost of larger size balls.....and are going to buy a rifle anyway, then you might really want to think hard about the .58cal...it seems like it's almost an inherently accurate caliber, is an absolute powerhouse, and will definitely cover your average longer distances far better than a .50 or .54cal will.

I have a .58cal GM Flint drop in barrel for a TC Hawken stock, extremely accurate, overkill on Eastern whitetails in thick close settings, but other than sighting it in and hunting with it, I don't shoot it much because the .570/279grn Hornady/Speer swaged balls are pretty expensive...casting your own makes that issue go away...I'd be shocked if you weren't delighted with it...
 
If you shoot a ball bigger than .595, that is where rolling your own really saves you some money.

I can cast 25 Hard balls .705 dia for 20 cents, compared to $8.00 ........Pure lead, I may have to buy...........some day.

Hard stuff for practice, Soft for hunting!
 
BS said:
If you shoot a ball bigger than .595, that is where rolling your own really saves you some money.

I'm not disputing your reasoning, but I have actually gone the opposite direction in the last few years. I now shoot more .32 then anything else, just because I'm stingy!

150-200 balls to the pound (I never actually weighed them) and 300+- shots to the pound of powder. That streches things way out!

That and if you run your own you are never dependent on anyone for your supplies. I knap my own flints and make my own caps too!
 
Any gun stores etc in your area, check the back shelves. I have found a lot of used goodies such as molds, melting pots, sizers, dies etc for a pittance around here.

If in the right area where interest in such is low, the gun shops just want to move them out.
 
For a source of lead check with roofing companies. Pure lead is used for flashing around fireplaces and such. they are often glad to get rid of it. For flux I use beeswax. This morning I ran approx. 250 .490 and 125 .440 in about 2 1/2 hours. This alone justifed the cost of Lee small production pot.
 
i haven't bought factory loaded or factory made bullets since the Bush administration (the real Bush), and that was as an exemplar for my supervising attorney, who was going to present it as evidence, but the case settled before we went to trial...

admitting that prejudice, i think you will enjoy making your own RB, the cost saving notwithstanding. i have always found it more satasfying to make a one hole shot group with balls i made myself than with those i bought, which is why i stopped buying them.

be sure to do this outside- there are all manner of bad effects from lead, lead fumes, etc. wash your hands thoroughly when you're done and (of course) don't eat or smoke or drink while casting.

i preder pure lead to wheelweight for muzzleloaders. save the wheelweight for centerfire pistol.

good lucl

MSW
 
got a phone call last week from my dentist..he had about 2 lbs of lead from the x-ray process for me...this is the second batch this year..it won't do for all my running, but it stretches out my lead supply...Hank
PS..asking around helps..I asked my chiropractor about his use of lead...he didn't use it that way, but told me that he was moving as his building was being torn down, and his xray room was lead lined....I'm asking the contractor for the lead...Hank
 
Why are the lyman molds so much more expensive than the lee's?

The single lymans were $50-60, while a double lee is like $16.

Are they that much better? They pretty much looked like the same thing to me.

So pretty much, I could get started with:

1: Pot
2: Ladle
3: Mold
4: Lead

What are some things to watch for as far as making good balls, getting the right lead (not to hard or soft), and safety?
The stuff Ive priced could get me going for less than $100 with just the basics I listed above.
So just wondering what some of the tricks of the trade are from you old hands.

Thanks again

Boone
 
You'll need some bee's wax too. You use it as flux when melting the lead... a bit about the size of a pea per load. You'll also want something to keep the mold lubricated. Bullet lube (get from your reloading supplier) will do.
 
try this site, if it comes up.
I did a quick search on bullet casting
[url] http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_4_49/ai_98124194[/url]

this is just 1 of many out there!
repeatability is the key point.
Brett
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You may even be lucky enough to find a lead pot at a fleemarket.

I did....cost me only 5 dollars. It even had lead in it!

When Mrs. Blahman found out I paid so little for it, she told I needed to to church twice for the next four Sundays! :haha:
 
barebackjack said:
Why are the lyman molds so much more expensive than the lee's?

The single lymans were $50-60, while a double lee is like $16.

Are they that much better? They pretty much looked like the same thing to me.

The Lymans and RCBS molds are cut with cherries into blocks of iron. The lee molds are a soft aluminum and made by mashing the aluminum block over a round ball die under a lot of pressure.

I suspect it's easier to produce a really good sphere the Lee way, but the aluminum blocks are not as durable and don't hold the heat as well as the iron molds.

The Lee molds are a great way to get into casting. Buy them first. Most stick with them. If you are still at it in a couple of years and find yourself wanting an iron mold you can always pick up one of the more expensive Lyman/RCBS models then.

-ktw
 
I shoot most of my balls into a sand-filled wooden box that I empty and renovate every time the wooden boards at the front begin to disintegrate. It catches all my round balls, so I sieve the sand and collect them - doesn't take long and is quite interesting seeing what happens to the balls when they hit wood and sand, and each other, at circa 1500 fps! I don't like the idea of pounds of lead seeping into my groundwater, which is the main reason I do it. I haven't started casting my own yet, but am now thinking of doing it recycling these old balls. Obviously there would be quite a lot of skimming to do in the pot to get rid of the gunk attached to them, but I'm just wondering if anyone else does this?
 
strider said:
I shoot most of my balls into a sand-filled wooden box that I empty and renovate every time the wooden boards at the front begin to disintegrate. It catches all my round balls, so I sieve the sand and collect them - doesn't take long and is quite interesting seeing what happens to the balls when they hit wood and sand, and each other, at circa 1500 fps! I don't like the idea of pounds of lead seeping into my groundwater, which is the main reason I do it. I haven't started casting my own yet, but am now thinking of doing it recycling these old balls. Obviously there would be quite a lot of skimming to do in the pot to get rid of the gunk attached to them, but I'm just wondering if anyone else does this?

The sand will dry and fall off........just flux with candle wax, and skim.

Or you could give them a bath in a pail of water, then recycle. But let them dry well, lead and water don't mix!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top